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LIBRARY 

OF  THE 

University  of  California. 

Class 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

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http://www.archive.org/details/chinaitsrnarvelmyOOIiddrich 


CHINA 

ITS    MARVEL    AND    MYSTERY 


HONG    KONG:    FROM    KOWLOON 
Showing  the  well-known  Peak,  with  the  city  at  its  base. 


CHINA 


ITS  MARVEL  AND  MYSTERY 


BY 


T.  HODGSON  LIDDELL,  R.B.A. 


WITH   40  ILLUSTRATIONS  IN   COLOUR 
BY  THE  AUTHOR 


NEW    YORK 
JOHN    LANE    COMPANY 

LONDON:  GEORGE  ALLEN  &  SONS 
MCMX 


Lb 


CHINA:     THE    ARTIST'S    TASK 

I  UNDERTOOK  this  joumey  to  China  solely  to  paint 
pictures  of  a  country  I  had  during  all  my  life  heard  a 
great  deal  of,  and,  in  my  book,  I  try  to  convey  my 
impressions  as  an  artist.  I  had  occasionally  heard  of 
and  seen  sketches  made  by  residents  in  and  visitors  to 
China,  but  I  am  not  aware  that  a  concerted  attempt  has 
ever  before  been  made  to  produce  and  show  to  those  at 
home  a  series  of  pictures  which  might  illustrate,  at  any 
rate,  some  parts  of  China  known,  or  of  interest,  to 
Europeans. 

If  to  a  certain  extent  I  restricted  myself  to  illustrat- 
ing these  better-known  parts,  it  was  because  I  felt  that 
the  less-known  places,  though  equally  picturesque,  would 
not,  as  yet,  appeal  to  the  public ;  and  also  I  knew  well 
beforehand  that  the  difficulties  I  should  have  to  face,  to 
work  even  where  I  did,  would  be  very  great.  And,  in- 
deed, I  found  I  had  not  underestimated  these  difficulties. 

The  Chinese  are,  naturally,  very  artistic ;  but,  in  most 
places  where  I  worked,  they  have  never  before  seen  any 
one  attempting  to  paint  outside  from  nature.  One  has 
only  to  think  of  how  the  crowd  would  gather  if  a  China- 
man, in  national  costume,  were  to  set  up  an  easel  and 


226324 


CHINA:   THE  ARTIST'S   TASK 

begin  to  paint  in  one  of  our  own  streets,  to  realise  a 
little  of  what  I  had  to  put  up  with.  I  had  great  crowds 
of  curious  natives  to  manage  and  to  humour,  and  in 
other  cases  I  had  to  persuade  the  officials  to  allow  me 
to  sketch.  Their  whole  idea,  it  seemed  to  me,  was  that 
a  foreigner  sketching  meant  making  maps  and  plans 
for  some  ulterior  purpose. 

The  difficulty  I  experienced,  and  the  long,  patient, 
persistent  efforts  I  had  to  make,  before  I  could  persuade 
those  most  highly  educated  and  placed  officials  immedi- 
ately in  touch  with  the  Throne  even  to  petition  the 
Empress  Dowager  to  grant  me  that  permission  which 
I  ultimately  obtained — to  work  at  the  Summer  Palace — 
was  only  one,  though  the  most  determined,  effort  to  keep 
me  outside.  But  once  I  had  obtained  that,  and  become 
known  (and,  I  flatter  myself,  rather  liked),  and  conse- 
quently favoured  by  those  officials,  my  difficulties  were 
smoothed  over  as  far  as  possible. 

Then  I  had  to  contend  with  the  climate,  a  very  serious 
matter ;  to  work  in  extreme  heat  and  extreme  cold ;  at 
times  in  very  moist  heat,  and  again  in  great  dryness; 
the  mere  keeping  of  my  paper  and  materials  in  fit 
condition  was  quite  a  serious  matter. 

Of  the  places  I  visited  and  illustrated  the  chief  were, 
in  the  order  of  my  journey :  Hong  Kong,  Canton,  Macao, 
and  the  neighbourhood  of  these  places,  in  the  south. 
Shanghai  was   another  centre,  and  from   there  I  visited 

vi 


CHINA:   THE  ARTISTS   TASK 

and  worked  in  the  Soochow  and  Tahu  or  Great  Lake 
district,  and  at  Bing-oo,  Kashing,  and  Hangchow,  with 
its  famous  West  Lake.  In  the  north  I  visited  Pei-tai-ho, 
Shan-hai-kwan,  Tientsin,  and  finally  Peking,  with  its 
world-famous  palaces  and  temples. 

China  is  such  a  vast  country,  and  holds  such  wealth 
of  beauty  and  interest,  that  an  artist  might  spend  years 
and  then  only  have  taken  the  cream  from  each  place. 
My  visit  was  only  for  one  year,  and  therefore  I  had 
to  cut  my  coat  according  to  my  cloth,  and  leave  for  a 
possible  future  visit  many  notable  scenes  which  might 
well  be  depicted  and  shown  to  the  world.  I  venture  to 
think  that  if  Europeans  could  but  see  more  pictures, 
realistically  painted,  of  the  natural  and  created  beauties 
of  that  great  Empire,  they  would  form  a  better  opinion, 
not  only  of  the  country,  but  of  the  civilisation  and  very 
high  artistic  sense  of  the  people. 

I  trust  that,  in  issuing  my  work  to  the  Public,  it 
will  be  understood  that  to  all  intents  I  have  acted  the 
difficult  part  of  a  Pioneer  in  this  direction,  and  have  at 
any  rate  overcome  some  of  the  scruples  of  the  Chinese, 
as  well  as  returned  home  with  a  very  high  opinion  of, 
and  a  great  liking  for,  them. 

My  visit  to  Japan  was  but  a  short  one,  a  holiday 
after  a  long  spell  of  hard  work  in  very  great  heat;  but 
I  could  not  help  comparing  the  two  countries  artisti- 
cally, very  much  (from  my   point   of  view)  in  favour  of 


Vll 


CHINA:  THE   ARTISTS   TASK 

China,  which,  with  increased  facilities  for  travelling,  will 
become  a  great  holiday  ground  for,  at  any  rate,  the 
wealthier  traveller. 

I  owe  a  debt  of  gratitude  to  friends  at  home  and  in 
China,  who  by  their  help  and  advice  enabled  me  to 
undertake  this  journey,  and  I  take  this  opportunity  of 
expressing  my  grateful  thanks.  Also  to  my  hosts  at 
Hong  Kong,  Canton,  Shanghai,  and  Tientsin,  for  their 
great  kindness  and  hospitality ;  to  our  Minister  and  the 
Staff  of  the  British  Legation  at  Peking,  and  my  many 
friends  in  China,  for  all  their  kindness ;  and  last,  but  not 
least,  to  express  my  thanks  to  those  Chinese  gentlemen 
who  were  themselves  so  helpful  to  me,  and  so  apprecia- 
tive of  the  efforts  I  made  to  depict  some  of  the  beautiful 
scenes  in  their  country. 

In   the   production   of  this   book  I  owe  much  to  my 

wife,  whose  aid  has  been  invaluable. 

T.  H.  L. 


VIU 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

I.   HONG  KONG i 

II.   NEW  AND   OLD  KOWLOON 7 

III.  MACAO 12 

IV.  CANTON— THE   PEARL  RIVER 17 

V.    CANTON   FROM  THE  WALLS 23 

VI.   SHANGHAI 29 

VII.   SHANGHAI   NATIVE   CITY 37 

VIII.    SHANGHAI   {continued) 46 

IX.    SOOCHOW  AND   TAHU 51 

X.   HANGCHOW. 59 

XL   HANGCHOW  SETTLEMENT 64 

XII.    HANGCHOW   CITY 68 

XIII.  GOOD-BYE  TO  HANGCHOW 75 

XIV.  JAPAN .  83 

XV.   PEI-TAI-HO 92 

XVI.   SHAN-HAI-KWAN 105 

XVII.   TIENTSIN 113 

XVIII.  PEKING 119 

XIX.   VISIT  TO  THE   WINTER   PALACE 131 

XX.   PEKING:   TEMPLE   OF    HEAVEN 137 

ix 


CONTENTS 

CHAP.  PAGE 

XXI.   THE   LAMA  TEMPLE 145 

XXIL   CONFUCIAN   TEMPLE   AND   HALL   OF   THE   CLASSICS    .     152 

XXIII.  THE   MING   TOMBS   AND   NANKOW   PASS    .         .         .         .156 

XXIV.  A   RIDE   ROUND   THE  SUMMER   PALACE    .         .         .        .167 
XXV.   I   OBTAIN   AN   EDICT 175 

XXVI.  THE   SUMMER   PALACE 179 

XXVII.  RETURN   TO   PEKING 194 

GLOSSARY 199 

INDEX   OF   NAMES 201 


LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 


PEKING:  THE  PORCELAIN  PAGODA,  NEAR  THE  SUMMER 

PALACE Cover 

HONG   KONG:   FROM   KOWLOON    ......      Frontispiece 

Showing  the  well-known  Peak,  with  the  city  at  its  base. 

HONG   KONG:  CHOW-TIME Facing  p.      i 

Lighting  the  fires  for  the  evening  meal. 

HONG  KONG:   THE  FLOWER   MARKET        .         .        .         .         „  lo 

A  STREET  IN   MACAO „  14 

NEAR  CANTON:  FISHING-BOATS  ON  THE  PEARL  RIVER        „  17 

CANTON  RIVER „         20 

The  inhabitants  of  these  boats  are  born,  live,  and  die  in  them. 

CANTON „         23 

A  General  View — also  of  the  Flowery  Pagoda — from  the  Walls  near 
the  Five-Storied  Pagoda. 

SHANGHAI:  THE   NEW   MALOO,   NATIVE   CITY  .        .         „  37 

SHANGHAI:    THE  PIECE-GOODS   TEMPLE,   CITY  WALL.         „         40 

SHANGHAI:    NATIVE  CITY ,  44 

This  old  Tea-House  is  said  to  be  the  origin  of  the  Willow  Pattern 
Plate. 

LOONGWHA  TEMPLES,  NEAR  SHANGHAI   .        .        .        .         „         46 

KWANGFOONG,   TAHU „         51 

The  Great  Lake  north  of  Soochow.  ^ 

NEAR  MUTU,   ABOVE  SOOCHOW „         54 

xi 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 

AT  WONG-DONG:   CORMORANT   FISHING     . 

THE   BRIDGE   AT   KWANGFOONG 

As  seen  from  a  Mandarin's  grave. 


Facing  p.    57 

58 


THE    TEMPLE  AT  BING-00 :    WATER   GATE    AND    CITY 

WALL „  60 

BING-00:    A  WIDOW'S   MONUMENT „  62 

HANGCHOW:   A  BRIDGE  ON  THE  CAUSEWAY,  WEST  LAKE  „  65 

HANGCHOW:    PAILAU   AT  THE   IMPERIAL  LIBRARY      .  „  66 

WATER-BUFFALO   AT   WORK   IN   THE   PADDY-FIELDS     .  „  73 

HANGCHOW:   THE   NORTH  GATE.         .        .         ...  „  77 

HANGCHOW:    LOTUS  ISLAND,   WEST   LAKE        .         .         .         „  82 

Showing  one  of  several  Pavilions  in  this  pleasure-resort. 

THE  ROCK   TEMPLE,  PEI-TAI-HO ,,102 

THE   GREAT  WALL  ABOVE   SHAN-HAI-KWAN     .        .         .         „        109 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN :   THE   MAIN   STREET         .         .        .         .         „        iii 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN:    AN   HOTEL  SIGN ,,112 

AT  TIENTSIN 114 

PEKING:      THE     EMPEROR'S     ROBING     TEMPLE,      THE 

TEMPLE   OF   HEAVEN ,141 

PEKING:   THE  TEMPLE  OF  HEAVEN,  THE  SACRIFICIAL 

ALTAR ,,142 

The  Emperor's  way  from  his  Robing  Temple  —  behind  the 
spectator — is  through  the  central  gateway  and  up  the  steps  to  the 
sacrificial  altar  of  the  Temple  ("  The  centre  of  the  universe  "). 

PAILAU   IN   THE   LAMA  TEMPLE,    PEKING  .         .        .         „         146 

PEKING:   THE   LAMA  TEMPLE ,148 


Open-air  worship  by  Lamas  at  certain  periods  of  the  moon.     The 

yellow  roof  and  red  walls  betoken  Imperial  patronage, 
xii 


LIST  OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 

PEKING:    PORCELAIN   PAILAU   AT   THE  HALL  OF   THE 
CLASSICS 

Erected  by  Chien  Lung,  the  builder  of  the  Summer  Palace. 

THE  YELLOW  TEMPLE,   NEAR   PEKING       .... 
NANKOW  PASS:   GATE  OF  THE   GREAT   WALL 

PEKING:    SEEN   FROM   THE   DRUM   TOWER 

Coal  Hill  on  the  left ;  beneath,  the  Gate  of  the  Forbidden  City  ; 
to  the  right,  the  Dagoba,  which  is  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Winter  Palace. 

PEKING:   THE   BELL  TOWER 

PEKING :    THE  SUMMER  PALACE 

Showing  the  greater  part.  The  central  buildings  are  Temples. 
Below  is  seen  the  yellow  roof  of  the  State  Audience  Hall. 
In  the  distance  are  the  Western  Hills. 

PEKING:    THE   GRAND  PAILAU,   SUMMER   PALACE 

The  chief  entrance  to  the  Audience  Hall  and  Temples  from  the 
Lake.  Through  the  central  arch  in  the  distance  is  seen  the 
Dragon  Temple. 

PEKING:   PAVILION   OF  THE  LATE  EMPRESS,  SUMMER 
PALACE   

PEKING:    THE   MARBLE  JUNK 

This  imitation  of  an  old  junk,  on  the  Lake  of  the  Summer  Palace, 
is  used  as  a  Tea-House  for  the  Imperial  family.  The  marble 
paddle-wheels  were  added  during  the  late  reign. 


Facing  p.  153 

„         154 
„         166 

173 


174 
182 


184 


187 
191 


xni 


HONG    KONG:    CHOW-TIME 

Lighting  the  fires  for  the  evening  meal. 


CHINA 

ITS    MARVEL    AND    MYSTERY 


CHAPTER   I 

HONG  KONG 

Arrival  and  General  Impression. 

HONG  KONG,  with  its  majestic  Peak  rising  in 
glory  above  a  shimmering  sea,  is  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  things  in  the  world.  Look  at 
the  outline  of  the  hills,  broken  and  softened  here 
and  there  by  mist  floating  gossamer-like ;  then  look 
at  the  town  of  Victoria  nestling  at  its  foot,  and  the 
shipping  of  many  nations,  from  frowning  battleship  and 
stately  liner  to  the  matting-sailed  junk  and  tiny  sampan 
— a  wondrous  place! 

Watch  the  Peak  towards  evening,  when  the  smoke 
of  the  fires  from  the  Chinese  quarter  rises  gently  up 
the  hillside.  See  this  soft-coloured,  vaporous  smoke  of 
chow-time,  with  its  mysterious  suggestions,  as  it  moves 
slowly  in  the  quiet  atmosphere.  Thoughts  come  to  you 
then  not  only  of  the  prosaic  cooking-time  of  China,  but 


CHII;^A:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

'  of  burning  joss-sticks  and  quiet  worship  of  which  we  of 
/!;  the  West  have  but  vague  ideas. 

Climb  the  hill  on  a  brilliant  sunny  morning  and 
look  round  over  the  many  islands  of  red  and  grey  rock, 
dotted  about  on  the  gleaming  water,  with  sails  sparkling, 
and  perhaps  on  the  far  horizon  a  homeward-bound  liner 
with  its  freight  of  humanity,  goods,  and  letters  with  their 
messages  to  the  loved  ones  at  home.  Or  look  down,  at 
night,  over  the  town  with  its  thousands  of  lights  glinting, 
and  out  over  the  harbour  to  busy  Kowloon,  at  your  feet 
myriads  of  flitting  fireflies,  and  a  brilliant  moon  and 
stars  overhead.  This  is  altogether  one  of  the  most 
mysterious,  fascinating,  and  beautiful  sights  one  can 
imagine. 

Who,  only  seeing  this  side  of  it,  would  guess  it  could 
be  the  scene  of  such  ravaging  storms  as  the  typhoon  of 
1908  or  previous  years,  when  houses  were  unroofed  and 
wrecked,  big  ships  driven  ashore,  junks  swept  away 
never  to  be  seen  again,  and  sampans  lost  by  the  score, 
all  with  their  quota  of  human  souls.  Such  is  Nature — 
ever  changing,  beautiful,  mysterious,  with  terrible  and 
gloomy,  glorious,  sunny  and  joyous  side. 

Separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  channel  varying 
in  width  from  one  mile  at  Kowloon  Point  to  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  at  the  Lyeemoon  Pass,  the  island  of  Hong 
Kong  or  Hiang  Kiang,  on  which  is  built  the  town  of 
the   same   name  (more   correctly,  Victoria),  was  ceded   to 


HONG   KONG 

the  British  in  1841.  The  island  is  very  irregular  in 
shape,  about  ten  miles  long  by  two  to  five  miles  wide, 
and  rising  to  a  height  of  nearly  2000  feet.  The  geological 
formation  is  mainly  granite,  and  the  hills  in  the  upper 
parts  are  bare ;  but  lower  down,  in  and  about  the  town 
and  up  what  have  been  rough  gulleys,  our  countrymen 
have  planted  trees  and  made  beautiful  gardens  and  lovely 
walks  leading  up  to  their  pretty  houses  nestling  in 
sheltered  nooks  on  the  hillside.  High  up  one  sees  them, 
and  to  these  the  well-to-do  colonists  are  carried  to  and 
fro  in  chairs,  on  poles  borne  by  two  or  four  coolies. 
There  are  very  beautiful  botanic  gardens  overlooking  the 
town  and  bay;  and  when  I  paid  my  first  visit  to  them 
they  were  near  their  best,  and  I  was  greatly  struck  by 
a  beautiful  erythrea  tree  with  its  gorgeous  red  blossoms. 
Alas  1  within  twelve  months,  when  I  went  again,  the 
dreaded  typhoon  had  broken  this  and  many  other  fine 
specimens.  And  another  example  of  the  terrible  destruc- 
tion caused  by  these  dreaded  typhoons  was  brought  still 
nearer  home  to  me.  The  house  in  which  I  was  a  guest, 
on  my  first  visit,  had  the  roof  torn  off  and  was  almost 
a  ruin ;  the  rooms  in  which  I  had  spent  such  pleasant 
times  with  my  genial  host  were  laid  open  to  the  skies ; 
and  many  months  afterwards  the  house  was  only  begin- 
ning again  to  wear  its  former  appearance ;  because,  what- 
ever   damage    is    done,    the    colonist    in    his    quiet  way 

immediately    gives    orders    for    it    to    be    repaired,    and 

3 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

goes   on   with   his   business   as   if    nothing  unusual   had 
happened. 

The  buildings  of  Victoria  are  very  fine.  I  need  only 
mention  a  few  examples — the  Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai 
Bank,  the  Hong  Kong  Club,  and  the  New  Law  Courts 
and  Post  Office  now  being  built,  all  on  the  front,  and 
largely  on  land  gained  from  the  sea  by  the  foresight 
and  energy  of  some  of  the  leading  colonists.  Up  behind, 
near  the  Botanic  Gardens  and  looking  over  the  town, 
is  Government  House,  watching,  as  it  were,  over  the 
destinies  of  the  colony  in  charge  of  its  occupant. 

Scenes  in  the  street  are  interesting  and  very  cosmo- 
politan. Here  you  see  the  Britisher  intent  on  business ; 
there  the  tourist  in  gay  attire,  men  and  women  just 
landed  from  a  liner,  and  making  the  most  of  a  little 
stay  in  port  to  see  all  they  can ;  there,  again,  the  shout- 
ing chair-coolies,  anxious  for  a  fare.  All  animation  and 
business  is  this  Gate  of  the  East. 

A  most  interesting  walk  is  that  along  the  front  facing 
the  harbour.  Starting  west  from  the  Hong  Kong  Club, 
hub  of  the  colony,  one  sees  the  Star  Ferry  Wharf,  from 
whence  plies  the  steam-ferry  to  and  from  Kowloon.  Then 
there  are  various  wharves  and  landing-places  opposite  great 
modern  buildings,  the  offices  of  the  shipping  and  other 
merchants.  Between  these  wharves  and  jetties,  packed 
closely,  lie  many  native  boats  on  which  the  owners  live. 
They  are  ready  to  carry  cargo  of  any  kind,  to  ships  in 
4 


HONG   KONG 

the  harbour,  or  to  other  parts  of  the  colony;  there  are 
smaller  boats  or  sampans  for  passengers,  and  others  for 
fishing.  All  these  native  craft  must  push  off  to  a  certain 
distance  from  the  land  at  night,  and  all  are  numbered, 
and  the  passenger-boats  licensed,  so  that  passengers  may 
embark  in  safety,  the  police  knowing  each  boat.  Farther 
on,  one  notices  that  the  houses  are  mostly  occupied  by 
Chinese,  and  along  and  across  this  busy  street  coolies 
are  carrying  to  and  from  the  craft  all  sorts  of  goods, 
from  bales  of  cotton  to  pigs  squealing  and  kicking  tied 
up  in  baskets ;  farther  on  still,  are  the  wharves  of  the 
various  companies  running  steamers  to  Macao,  Canton, 
and  the  West  River. 

The  blue  gown  is  the  prevailing  colour  and  costume 
of  the  better-class  native,  but  amongst  the  coolies  all 
colours  are  to  be  found  in  picturesque  confusion.  The 
wide  straw  hats  seem  to  serve  as  umbrellas  to  keep  off 
either  sun  or  rain.  Or  again,  from  the  Post  Office,  get 
on  one  of  the  smoothly  running  electric  cars  and  go 
east  past  the  barracks,  and  so  on  till  again  you  are  on 
the  sea  front  (one  sees  many  Japanese  names  on  the 
shops  here),  on  past  East  Point,  where  is  one  of  the  oldest 
Hongs  of  the  colony,  built  here  in  the  early  days,  and 
still  going  strong. 

Here  is  the  Harbour  of  Refuge,  constructed  to  pro- 
vide shelter  for  the  many  native  craft.     On   farther,  we 

see  to  one  side  the  fine  racecourse,  where  at  certain  times 

5 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

great  crowds  gather,  not  only  from  Hong  Kong,  Canton, 
but  even  Shanghai  and  other  ports,  sending  their  racing 
enthusiasts  to  swell  the  crowd.  Continue  on  the  car  and 
we  come  to  the  great  sugar-mills,  and,  near  by,  the  New 
Dock,  built  by  one  of  the  great  and  enterprising  firms 
of  the  Far  East.  And  what  an  enterprise  this  is ! — cut 
out  of  a  granite  hillside,  and,  at  the  time  I  saw  it,  near- 
ing  completion,  with  all  the  latest  equipment  necessary 
for  docking  large  vessels  —  another  instance  of  British 
colonial  energy. 

Farther  on,  the  car  runs  along  a  pretty  road  by  the 
water-side  and  finally  stops  at  the  entrance  to  the  village 
of  Sha-kai-wan,  which,  but  a  few  years  ago,  was  the  home 
and  headquarters  of  many  of  the  pirates  which  infested 
these  waters.  It  now  has  the  appearance  of  a  small 
fishing  village ;  but,  personally,  I  would  not  like  to  vouch 
for  the  strict  honesty  of  all  its  amphibious-looking  inhabi- 
tants. At  any  rate,  it  does  not  call  for  great  imagination 
to  fancy  them  as  dressed  and  armed  in  old-time  style,  and 
waiting  ready  to  pounce  on  any  peaceful  craft  passing  by. 

One  cannot  fail  to  notice  another  engineering  feat — 
the  Peak  tramway,  which  I  have  heard  described  as  ugly. 
But  if  one  will  travel  by  it,  and  watch  from  the  car  as 
it  ascends  or  descends,  he  will  be  rewarded  by  most 
beautiful  glimpses  through  semi-tropical  foliage  along 
the  hillside  or  over  the  harbour.  From  a  station  half- 
way up  I  saw  one  of  the  most  delightful  views. 
6 


CHAPTER   II 
NEW  AND  OLD  KOWLOON 

First  Experiences  of  Sketching. 

NEW  Kowloon  might  well  be  described  as  the 
military  and  commercial — and  soon  will  be  the 
railway — annex  of  Hong  Kong.  This  is  one 
end  of  the  Canton-Kowloon  Railway,  now  in  course  of 
construction  and  intended  to  be  part  of  a  great  trunk 
line  through  China.  At  Kowloon  many  of  the  large 
vessels  discharge  and  take  on  cargo.  From  here  one 
gets  perhaps  the  most  comprehensive  view  of  the  Peak 
of  Hong  Kong  and  the  town  of  Victoria,  with  its  great 
and  busy  harbour.  Two  or  three  miles  off,  to  the  east, 
is  the  old  native  city  of  Kowloon.  It  lies  on  the  slope 
of  the  hill,  and  the  walls  wind  up  and  along,  and  are 
well  seen  from  the  water.  The  town  has  now  few  in- 
habitants. I  should  think  they  have  found  it  more 
profitable  to  migrate  to  the  New  Kowloon,  or  Hong 
Kong,  and  trade  or  work  there.  Old  Kowloon  is  nearly 
opposite  Sha-kai-wan,  and  its  people,  for  piratical  purposes, 
as  far  as  situation  goes,  may  have  been,  and  I  believe 
were,  brethren  in  their  nefarious  trade. 

I   believe  the  former   inhabitants   of  this  place   were 

7 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

amongst  the  worst  characters  of  the  district,  and  such  a 
thorn  in  the  side  of  peace  and  quietness  that  a  few 
years  ago  it  ended  in  our  countrymen  at  Hong  Kong 
rushing  the  place,  turning  the  people  out,  and  so  dis- 
mantling it  that  it  could  no  longer  be  a  menace  to  the 
quiet  of  our  colony. 

Now,  as  I  walked  round  the  walls,  I  found  old  iron 
cannon  thrown  on  the  ground  and  many  signs  of  what 
had  been ;  but  looking  into  the  town  I  realised  that  its 
power  to  hurt  was  gone.  It  is  almost  deserted,  and 
only  on  the  outside  of  the  old  walls  and  nearer  the 
water  is  there  a  small  population  left.  It  is  difficult  to 
realise  that  such  a  pirates*  lair  could  exist  in  this 
century  within  sight  of  one  of  the  greatest  British 
colonies  of  the  East.  Think  of  this  hotbed  of  crime 
only  across  the  narrow  waters  from  those  palatial  build- 
ings and  comfortable  houses,  to  be  seen  from  their 
windows.  One  wonders  at  the  patience  which  allowed  it 
to  exist  so  long.  No  wonder  it  was  considered  unsafe 
to  cross  the  harbour  in  a  small  boat  after  dark,  and 
that  there  were  mysterious  disappearances  while  these 
pirates  had  a  stronghold  near  by. 

An  artist  need  not  be  long  in  finding  subjects  here, 
or,  in  fact,  throughout  China;  but  he  must  be  prepared 
to  put  up  with  all  sorts  of  troubles  and  interruptions,  to 
sit  or  stand  in  most  uncomfortable  positions,  and  in- 
variably with  a  big  crowd  round.  Even  in  Hong  Kong, 
8 


NEW  AND  OLD   KOWLOON 

a  British  colony,  it  is  quite  rare  to  see  a  painter  work- 
ing in  the  open  air,  and  the  natives  are  very  curious 
and  rather  too  appreciative.  Once  I  found  that  certain 
of  my  spectators  wished  to  approach  much  nearer  than 
was  pleasant,  and  even  to  stand  in  front  of  me.  I 
remarked  to  a  friend  at  dinner  that  evening  that  I  was 
possessed  with  a  great  desire  to  pull  their  pigtails,  to 
make  them  move  out  of  my  way.  He  gently  re- 
monstrated with  me,  and  said  I  must  be  patient.  I 
followed  his  advice  and  had  my  reward ;  for  next  day  a 
youth,  to  show  his  superior  agility,  attempted  to  jump 
across  in  front  of  my  position  near  the  edge  of  the 
wharf  But,  alas  !  he  reckoned  without  his  host ;  for,  as 
he  jumped,  one  of  my  admirers  near  gripped  his  pigtail 
and  down  he  came  on  his  back,  and  was  only  saved 
from  a  ducking  in  the  water  by  being  held  by  his 
queue.  I  am  afraid  I  could  not  help  joining  in  the  loud 
laughter  that  followed. 

The  Sikh  policeman  of  Hong  Kong  is  a  very  important 
and  stately  individual,  and  one  of  them,  finding  me  en- 
sconced in  a  "ricksha"  in  one  of  the  main  streets,  con- 
sidered it  his  duty  to  take  me  under  his  special  care. 
He  in  vain  attempted  to  move  the  crowd  on ;  and,  though 
it  was  quite  necessary  to  keep  the  footpath  clear,  there 
was  no  real  need  for  him  to  start  a  game  of  catch-who- 
you-can  round  my  "ricksha."    The  younger  members  of  the 

crowd  in  particular  much  enjoyed  the  fun  of  dodging  their 

9 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

pursuer ;  but,  when  I  remonstrated,  the  only  answer  I  got 
from  the  policeman  was,  "  Dey  too  muchee  bobherry  my." 
The  local  press  described  me  as  "a  man  sitting  in  a 
'ricksha'  smoking  cigars  and  attempting  to  paint  the 
Flower  Market."  The  poor  painter  has  much  to  put  up 
with  ! 

I  cannot  finish  my  notes  on  Hong  Kong  without 
referring  to  the  wonderful  effects  of  what  are  commonly 
known  as  "mackerel"  skies,  which  are  here,  I  think, 
seen  to  more  perfection  than  elsewhere,  although  they 
are  the  prevailing  sky  of  Southern  China,  and  to  see  a 
fine  sunset  from  Hong  Kong  Harbour  is  something  to 
remember  all  one's  life. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  the  hospitality  of  the 
colonists.  I  shall  never  forget  it.  I  had  not  been  half- 
an-hour  on  land  before  I  was  taken  by  my  host  to  the 
Club,  and  introduced  to  more  than  I  can  remember;  but 
they  were  all  genial  and  kind,  one  after  another  asking 
me  to  tiffin  or  dine.  I  must  mention  that  no  doubt  I 
owed  a  great  deal  of  this  to  my  host,  one  of  the  best- 
known  men  in  the  colony,  and  also  to  the  fact  that 
members  of  my  family  have  long  lived  in  the  Far  East. 

My  time  was  too  busily  occupied  for  much  social 
intercourse.  But  to  those  who  have  time,  and  like  it, 
no  place  offers  more  than  Hong  Kong.  I  am  afraid 
that,  should  this  book  fall  into  the  hands  of  some  who 
were  my  fellow-guests  at  a  tiffin  party,  they  will  remark, 

10 


HONG    KONG:    THE    FLOWER    MARKET 


NEW  AND   OLD   KOWLOON 

if  they  remember  me  at  all,  that  I  was  not  strictly  truth- 
ful. I  was  a  stranger  to  all  but  my  host ;  and  in  con- 
versation one  asked  me  if  I  were  a  Member  of  Parliament, 
and  when  I  denied  the  soft  impeachment  and  said  I  was 
only  a  Scotsman,  another  said,  "Well,  are  you  going 
to  write  a  book?"  And  to  that  also  I  said  ''No,"  at 
that  time  having  no  such  intention.  I  hope  he  will 
forgive  me  for  doing  so.  Everywhere  I  found  kindness. 
Did  I  wish  to  sketch  from  the  harbour,  a  launch  was 
at  my  disposal,  and  a  good  tiffin  put  on  board.  I  had 
only  to  express  a  wish  to  go  anywhere,  and  I  was  taken 
there.  One  and  all  seemed  to  vie  with  each  other  to 
give  me  a  good  time,  and  they  succeeded.  I  went  to 
theatres  and  weddings  and  to  farewell  dinners,  and  to 
tiffins  to  those  about  to  wed. 

On  my  return  visit  I  found,  as  I  have  said,  that  the 
delightful  home  of  my  friend  had  been  partly  destroyed 
by  the  typhoon ;  but  I  was  invited  to  stay  at  a  splendid 
house  of  one  of  the  most  prominent  colonists,  a  house 
famous  for  its  architectural  beauty,  and  its  great  collec- 
tion of  Eastern  porcelain,  which  bids  fair  to  rival  the 
greatest.     Here  I  spent  Christmas  in  true  British  fashion. 


II 


CHAPTER   III 
MACAO 

The  Old  Portuguese  Settlement  and  sometime  Home  of  Camoens. 

"  Gem  of  the  Orient^  Earth  and  open  Sea — 
Macao :   that  in  thy  lap  and  on  thy  breast 
Hast  gathered  beauties  all  the  loveliest 
O'er  which  the  sun  smiles  in  his  majesty." 

— BOWRING. 

THE  visitor  to  Hong  Kong  should  not,  if  time 
allows,  fail  to  visit  Macao.  The  delightful  trip 
on  one  of  the  well-equipped  boats  of  the  Canton 
and  Macao  Steamboat  Company  is  well  worth  doing ; 
and  Macao,  with  its  history  going  back  to  1557,  when 
the  Portuguese  first  founded  their  settlement  (I  think 
it  is  the.  earliest  European  settlement  in  China),  is  most 
interesting.  The  Portuguese  were  allowed  at  that  time 
to  build  factories,  and  the  Chinese  built  a  wall  to  exclude 
the  barbarians. 

The  settlement  is  on  a  peninsula  on  the  western  side 
of  the  Canton  River,  and  the  city,  with  its  flat-roofed 
houses  of  southern  European  character,  is  very  pic- 
turesquely situated.  It  lies  on  the  level  piece  of  land 
forming  the  Peninsula,  between  bold   and  rocky  hills  at 

either  end  rising  some  300  feet. 
12 


MACAO 

The  Chinese  have  always  (notably  in  1862)  disputed 
the  ownership  of  this  piece  of  territory,  but  their  authority 
has  gradually  diminished,  and  now  the  place  has  been 
for  some  time  regarded  as  a  colonial  possession  by  the 
Portuguese.  It  was  early  occupied  by  the  Jesuit  mis- 
sionaries, who  established  the  grand  old  cathedral,  beauti- 
ful even  iii  its  ruin,  but  still  towering  up  into  the  sky, 
and  sharing  with  the  old  castle  the  domination  of  the 
town. 

Macao  was  the  centre  of  a  disgraceful  and  cruel  trade 
in  coolies,  a  slave  trade  of  the  worst  character,  from  the 
middle  of  last  century  till  it  was  abolished  in  1874. 
More  recently  the  colonial  revenue  has  been  largely 
gained  from  a  tax  on  the  notorious  Fan-Tan  gambling- 
dens,  which  in  1872-73  yielded  as  much  as  380,000  dollars 
(Mexican),  or  close  on  ;^35,ooo  sterling.  These  and  still 
worse  places  are  largely  patronised  by  the  Chinese  and 
Macoese  (among  whom  half-breeds  largely  predominate), 
and  one  is  lost  in  amazement  at  the  action  of  a  European 
nation  in  upholding  such  things  and  pandering  to  the 
worst  side  of  the  Chinese  character.  But,  for  all  this, 
Macao  is  a  fair  place  to  look  at  and  dream  over;  and 
it  is  a  more  pleasant  task  to  let  one's  thoughts  go  back 
to  days  when,  in  1568,  Louis  de  Camoens,  prince  of  poets 
of  his  time,  was  exiled  here  as  Portuguese  Governor  of 
the  Fort,  for  writing  a  satire  on  the  Portuguese  officials 
at  Goa,  exposing  their  corruption.     His  memory  is  kept 

13 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

green  by  the  grotto  which  still  bears  his  name,  and  here 
he  is  said  to  have  composed  at  least  part  of  his  "  Lusiad  " 
(the  national  epic  of  Portugal),  and  probably  in  this 
peaceful  retreat  he  passed  the  happiest  time  of  his 
adventurous  life. 

*'  There  never  fails,  intent  on  treacherous  ends, 
Some  lurking  foe  to  those  whom  Heaven  befriends."  * 

Nearly  all  the  outer  end  of  the  Peninsula  and  close  to 
the  river  rises  a  small  and  rocky  tree-covered  hill,  and 
on  this  is  situated  the  very  beautiful  Fisherman's  Temple, 
as  dainty  and  picturesque  a  group  of  buildings,  small 
though  they  are,  as  I  saw  anywhere  in  the  East.  My 
guide  induced  me  to  visit  the  Fan-Tan  gambling-houses, 
the  outsides  of  which  are  ornamental  in  a  tawdry  way; 
the  insides  did  not  appeal  to  me,  being  rather  dull  and 
dirty.  We  were  taken  upstairs,  where,  round  a  railed 
opening  in  the  floor,  one  looked  down  on  the  gaming-table; 
but  the  game  did  not  appear  to  me  to  have  any  charm. 
We  also  looked  in  at  a  Chinese  theatre,  where  one  of 
their  everlasting  plays  was  in  progress.  I  cannot  say 
that  there  was  any  resemblance  to  Drury  Lane.  There 
was  no  scenery ;  the  actors  (there  are  no  actresses,  though 
the  men  make  up  very  well  as  women)  wear  cheap  but 
very  gaudy  costumes,  and  change  their  dresses  on  the 
stage ;  all  the  hangers  on,  such  as  we  might  term  scene- 
shifters,  and  the  like,  stood  about  the  stage  and  watched 

*  "The  Lusiad." 


A    STREET    IN    MACAO 


MACAO 

the  performance,  which  was  so  weird  I  cannot  find  words 
to  describe  it.  It  largely  consisted  of  the  performers 
yelling  at  each  other  in  very  high-pitched  falsetto  voices 
(caterwauling  is  the  only  noise  I  can  liken  it  to),  waving 
their  arms  and  walking  up  and  down  —  the  so-called 
band  adding  to  the  din,  cymbals,  drums,  and  sort  of 
coach -horn,  &c.,  making  every  few  minutes  a  great 
banging  —  then  a  sudden  hush,  after  which  off  they 
would  start  again. 

The  men  who  take  women's  parts  are  raised  on  false 
wooden  feet,  made  quite  small  to  give  the  appearance 
of  the  small,  bound  feet  of  the  women  ;  their  baggy  trousers 
are  tied  in  at  the  ankle.  The  audience,  although  watching 
intently,  seem  moved  very  little,  and  only  signify  their 
approval  slightly.  There  is  no  enthusiastic  applause  as 
with  us,  though  there  is  occasionally  slight  laughter. 

While  here  I  visited  a  charming  Chinese  residence. 

The  owner  was  from  home,  but  I  was  most  courteously 

shown  over  it  by  his  servants.     The  gardens  were  very 

pretty — approached  through  quaintly  shaped  doorways  in 

the  walls,  and  intersected  by  pathways  lined  by  ornamental 

stone-work  and  plants  and  flowers — sheets  of  water,  with 

the  usual  bridges  leading  to  pavilions  on  islands,  making 

the  whole  very  attractive.      The  residential  part  of  the 

house  was  very  well  furnished  with  fine  Cantonese  black 

wood  and  many  pieces  of  beautiful  porcelain. 

The  No.  I   Boy  brought  out  as  a  great  treasure  for 

15 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

my  inspection  a  book  of  photographs  of  London,  asking 
me  if  I  knew  these  places;  and  on  my  saying  so,  I 
was  asked  by  my  interpreter  if  I  would  explain  them. 
This  I  did,  to  their  great  delight.  They  were  greatly 
struck  by  St.  Paul's,  which  I  described  to  them  as' our 
Chief  Joss-House,  and  with  the  idea  of  the  railways 
which  went  under  the  houses  and  streets. 


i6 


NEAR   CANTON:    FISHING-BOATS  ON    THE 
PEARL    RIVER 


CHAPTER    IV 
CANTON— THE  PEARL  RIVER 

Arrival  and  Description  of  the  City  and  the  River — Pawnshops — Boat  Life — 

Streets  and  Shopping. 

I  WAS  lucky  enough,  in  going  to  Canton,  to  have  the 
escort  of  a  Hong  Kong  friend  who  knew  his  way, 
and  also  fortunate  in  meeting,  on  board  the  boat, 
a  naval  commander  and  his  wife  who  were  fellow- 
passengers  from  England  and  going  up  to  enjoy  the 
hospitality  of  the  same  friends  I  was  to  stay  with. 
This  is  the  sort  of  good-fellowship  which  reigns  in  the 
East.  It  is  open  house  to  all  travellers  and  a  most 
hearty  welcome.  During  my  stay  with  these  friends, 
another  gentleman  and  shipmate  visited  them  ;  and  in 
their  company,  and  under  the  escort  of  the  daughter  of 
the  Consul-General,  I  visited  many  of  the  shops  and 
sights,  and  was  initiated  into  the  Eastern  methods  of 
making  a  bargain.  This  seemed  to  me  to  consist  in 
offering  about  a  third  of  the  sum  asked  and  gradually 
rising  to  about  half,  then  attempting  to  leave  the  shop, 
and  often  being  followed  into  the  street  by  the  trades- 
man, who  did  not  wish  to  lose  a  customer. 

I    reached    Canton    in    the   early   part   of  a   beautiful 

B  17 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

morning,  and  at  dawn  I  found  we  were  passing  along 
the  quiet  waters,  between  fertile  shores  with  distant  hills 
looming  up  in  tender  pearly  colour.  Well  may  this  be 
called  the  Pearl  River !  By-and-by,  along  the  bank  we 
could  discern  the  rough  huts  of  the  fisher-folk,  built  up 
out  of  the  water  on  poles.  These  people,  doubtless,  were 
pirates  not  very  long  ago,  and  would  be  so  still  if 
opportunity  allowed. 

Gradually  we  neared  Canton,  and  began  to  see  more 
and  more  boats,  until  the  water  was  full  of  them  and 
there  seemed  hardly  room  for  us  to  get  through.  The 
city  covers  about  68  square  miles,  a  great  part  of  this 
being  within  the  walls,  which  are  20  feet  thick  and  rise 
to  a  height  of  25  feet.  On  three  sides  this  wall  is  still 
further  protected  by  a  ditch  filled  with  water  by  the 
rising  tide,  but  at  low  tide  containing  nothing  but 
revolting  filth. 

There  are  twelve  outer  gates  and  two  water  gates, 
the  latter  allowing  boats  to  pass  from  east  to  west 
across  the  new  city.  All  gates  are  shut  about  sundown. 
The  streets  are  long,  winding,  and  very  narrow,  the 
houses  rarely  more  than  two  storeys  in  height. 

The  Buddhist  priests  and  nuns,  about  2000,  out- 
number any  other  sect.  There  is  also  a  Mahommedan 
mosque  with  a  tall  tower. 

The  great  guilds  of  China  are  strong  in  Canton,  and 

there  are  many  halls  belonging  to,  and  used    by,  these 
18 


CANTON 

bodies,  who  seem  to  have  great  power  to  sway  the 
opinion  of  the  people ;  as,  for  instance,  at  the  time  of 
my  last  visit  to  Canton,  a  Chinese  having  been  found 
dead  on  a  steamboat  belonging  to  a  British  firm,  and 
certified  by  a  doctor  to  have  died  from  natural  causes, 
there  was  a  great  ado  made  about  the  matter,  many 
meetings  were  held  at  the  guild-halls,  and  feeling  ran 
strong  against  the  British. 

Pawnshops  in  China  are  most  extensive  and  remark- 
able institutions.  They  are  of  three  classes.  The  first 
are  owned  by  wealthy  companies,  and  their  places  of 
business  are  well  and  strongly  built,  and,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  pagodas,  are  the  loftiest  buildings  in 
Canton.  Tall  square  blocks,  they  remind  one  of  some 
of  our  old  border  keeps.  They  have  windows  with  iron 
shutters.  The  entrance  doors  are  also  of  iron,  the  base- 
ment forming  the  offices  for  business,  while  the  upper 
floors  are  for  storage. 

Pawnshops  of  the  second  class  are  also  run  by  joint- 
stock  companies,  while  those  of  the  third  are  in  some 
instances  conducted  by  policemen  and  yamen-runners,  and 
even  by  wealthy  convicts.  Interest  is  mostly  excessive, 
with  perhaps  a  reduction  in  winter-time  to  enable  the  poorer 
people  to  redeem  their  warm  clothing  in  cold  weather. 
Pawnbrokers'  licences  are  very  expensive,  especially  those 
of  the  second  class.     Much  of  the  proceeds  is  appropriated 

by  the  officials,  who  are  notorious  throughout  the  empire 

19 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

for  their  grasping  ways.  These  institutions  are  largely 
used  to  obtain  the  means  to  celebrate  marriages  and 
funerals.  On  both  of  these  events  the  Chinese,  like  the 
Scotch,  spend  too  much  money. 

The  boat  life  of  China,  and  of  Canton  in  particular,  is 
a  thing  by  itself;  nowhere  else  is  it  to  be  found  to  the 
same  extent ;  nowhere  else  can  be  seen  thousands  of 
craft  massed  together,  seething  as  it  were,  and  suddenly 
bursting  into  life  and  movement. 

What  a  marvellous  sight  it  was  !  to  see  the  swarms 
of  people,  men,  women  and  children,  the  boats,  big  junks 
with  their  sterns  high  up,  or  tiny  little  sampans,  forming 
the  homes  in  which  they  are  born,  live  and  die — some  not 
even  leaving  them  to  be  buried  on  land,  but  finding  their 
last  resting-place  in  the  depths  below.  One  sees  this  mass 
of  boats  spreading  far  and  near ;  covered  in  with  all  sorts 
of  material,  from  the  well-fitted  hood,  part  of  which  slides 
along  and  makes  further  shelter,  to  the  makeshift  bits  of 
matting  pulled  over  some  bent  cane  ;  they  all  seem  quiet 
— then  you  suddenly  see  an  oar  moved,  or  a  mast  and  sail 
raised,  and  a  movement  begins  as  that  boat  pushes  its  way 
out  of  the  crowd,  often  accompanied  by  much  loud  talk, 
before  it  gets  into  the  open  channel  and  goes  away  on  its 
journey.  All  native  boats  in  the  East  have  eyes  painted 
on  them,  the  Chinese  argument  being — 

"  S'pose  no  got  eye,  no  can  see, 
S'pose  no  can  see,  no  can  walkee." 
20 


CANTON    RIVER 

The  inhabitants  of  these  boats  are  born,  Hve,  and  die  in  them. 


CANTON 

Living  on  the  foreign  settlement,  the  Shameen  at 
Canton — which  originally  was  little  else  than  a  mud-flat, 
and  is  now  a  beautifully  laid  out  garden-like  residential 
town,  with  its  turfed  roads  and  paved  walks,  tennis  grounds 
overhung  and  shaded  by  fine  banyan  trees — you  might,  but 
for  looking  out  on  the  river  with  its  boat  life,  think  you 
were  in  Europe.  But  cross  the  island  and  look  over  the 
creek  at  the  other  side,  at  the  native  city,  and  you  realise 
that  here  is  one  of  the  many  densely  populated  cities  of 
China.  You  note  the  crowds  of  boats  again,  with  produce 
of  all  kinds,  propelled  by  men,  women,  and  children  ;  some 
by  means  of  stern  paddle-wheels,  which  are  acted  on  by 
a  sort  of  treadmill  which  the  coolies  walk  on  ;  some  by 
the  single  oar;  and  some  of  the  small  ones  even  by  the 
foot,  the  coolie  sitting  down  and  gripping  the  oar  with 
his  toes,  as  we  would  with  our  hands.  These  latter  boats 
are  the  fastest,  and  have,  I  believe,  been  much  used  for 
letter-carrying. 

Cross  the  English  Bridge  and  you  are  in  Canton,  the 
most  Chinese  city  of  Southern  China  ;  penetrate  into  those 
picturesque  streets,  overhung  by  wonderful  and  grotesque 
signs,  almost  covered  in  overhead  by  matting  and  lattice- 
work ;  narrow  and  dimly  lighted,  with  damp  and  slippery 
pavements  and  a  jostling,  hurrying,  noisy  crowd,  all 
intent  on  their  business,  but  nevertheless  with  time  to 
cast  a  glance,  sometimes  suspicious,  but  mostly  of  amuse- 
ment, at  the  oddly  clothed  foreigner. 

B  2  21 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

But  be  careful  how  you  go,  for  (if  without  a  guide)  a 
few  minutes'  walk  is  so  confusing  you  will  be  completely 
lost  Here,  without  doubt,  are  the  most  picturesque 
streets  in  the  world,  and  in  time  to  come,  when  the  people 
have  grown  less  suspicious  of  foreigners,  some  able  brush 
will  show  this  to  be  so ;  but  I  could  not  put  an  easel 
up  in  the  streets,  and  was  warned  not  to  collect  a 
crowd,  as  there  was  considerable  feeling  against  the 
British  at  that  time. 

With  difficulty  we  made  our  way  about  the  various 
streets,  seeing  the  temples  and  curious  sights,  and  visiting 
the  shops,  where  gorgeous  embroidered  vestments  were 
for  sale,  and  where  they  do  the  delicate  decoration  of 
silverwork  by  inlaying  with  the  blue  feather  of  the 
kingfisher. 

How  quaint  it  all  is,  and  how  very  different  from 
anything  else  in  the  world  ! 

You  go  into  a  shop,  and  the  doors  or  gates  are 
closed  after  you,  and  you  wonder  what  will  happen 
next.  All  that  does  happen  is  that  nimble  boys  begin 
to  show  you  goods  you  long  to  possess.  Maybe  a  cup 
of  tea  is  offered,  green,  without  sugar  or  milk ;  and 
although  doubtful  of  the  water,  one  takes  it. 

There  is  much  bargaining  and  haggling.  No  one 
thinks  of  giving  the  price  asked,  and  the  Chinese  ap- 
preciate one  who  knows  how  to  drive  what  seems  a 
hard  bargain. 

22 


•  I  • r  .  ••  •    •  /• 


CANTON 

A  General  View — ^also  of  the  Flowery  Pagoda — from  the  Walls 
near  the  Five-Storied  Pagoda. 


CHAPTER    V 

CANTON  FROM  THE  WALLS 

City  of  the  Dead  Temples — British  Yamen — Canton  Water — My  First 
Attempt  to  Paint  in  a  Village. 

GOING  right  across  the  city — a  long  walk  on 
foot  and  mostly  done  in  chairs  carried  by 
four  coolies,  who  shout  and  call  to  clear 
the  way,  and  when  met  by  another  chair  push  in 
against  a  shop  to  allow  passage — the  traveller  reaches 
the  city  wall,  and  by  following  it  comes  to  the  well- 
known  five-storied  Pagoda,  near  which  is  the  best  and 
most  complete  view  of  Canton,  with  the  Flowery  Pagoda 
rising  out  of  it,  whilst  here  and  there  one  sees  those 
square  tower-like  buildings,  the  pawnshops.  And  a 
lovely  view  it  is  !  Looking  over  this  one  cannot  quite 
think  of  the  overcrowding,  the  squalor,  the  dirt,  which 
exists  below ;  here  we  look  among  trees  over  the  roofs 
of  temples,  with  God's  sky  above,  and  nothing  but 
brilliant  sunlight  and  beauty  around. 

It  is  curious  that  the  Chinese  think  it  necessary  to 
attempt  to  repair  the  old  walls,  and  even  to  renew  the 
roofs  over  the  ancient  guns,  as  if  they  were  of  any  use — 
old   iron   cannon   lying   rusting  on   the  ground — a  great 

23 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

and  sufficient  protection  against  an  enemy  in  olden 
times,  but  of  no  use  now. 

On  looking  over  the  hilly  country  which  lies  out- 
side this  part  of  the  city  wall,  I  saw  that  it  was  one 
vast  cemetery — hundreds,  thousands  of  small  stones 
marking  the  last  resting-place  of  past  generations  of 
Cantonese.  Here  and  there  I  could  discern  a  more 
pretentious  monument,  mostly  in  semi-circular  form, 
denoting  the  grave  of  a  dead  notability.  A  remarkable 
place  is  the  City  of  the  Dead.  It  is  a  series  of  temples 
and  mausoleums,  where  those  who  can  afford  it  lay 
their  dead  in  wondrous  coffins,  sometimes  enamelled  and 
decorated,  and  they  are  left  here  until  the  soothsayer, 
or  fortune-teller,  declares  where  and  when  they  shall  be 
finally  laid  to  rest.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  the 
wealth  of  the  relative  must  be  the  chief  thing  which 
determines  the  length  of  time  the  coffin  shall  remain  in 
these  sacred  precincts. 

I  saw  a  funeral  procession  on  its  way  here ;  there 
were  various  articles  of  food  fastened  to  the  coffin.  A 
live  cock  was  one,  and,  by  his  lusty  crowing,  did  not 
seem  at  all  disturbed  at  his  precarious  position. 

Another    interesting    place    is    the    Temple    ot     Five 

Hundred   Genii.      At    the   gates   are   great    carved-stone 

josses    guarding    the   entrance,   which   is   of  considerable 

extent.     In  the  central  or  main  hall  five  hundred  saints 

or  genii   are  placed   in   rows,   and    in    front   of   each   is 
24 


CANTON   FROM   THE  WALLS 

placed  the  small  porcelain,  and  sometimes  bronze,  urn 
in  which  those  who  come  to  "  chin-chin "  their  par- 
ticular joss  put  the  burning  joss-sticks.  The  gods 
themselves  are  wonderfully  varied  in  character,  and 
apparently,  from  the  number  of  joss-sticks  in  front  of 
certain  of  them,  some  are  greatly  favoured  beyond  others. 
They  are  all  lavishly  gilded,  some  quite  freshly  gilt, 
others  distinctly  showing  neglect — these,  I  suppose,  being 
gods  to  whom  there  is  no  necessity  for  appeal,  and 
therefore  no  call  for  devout  worshippers  to  show  their 
devotion  by  gilding.  One  in  particular  is  pointed  out 
to  foreigners,  Marco  Polo  ;  if  anything  like  this  image, 
he  was  no  beauty,  though  a  great  traveller. 

Almost  in  the  centre  of  the  city  stands  the  old 
British  Yamen,  once  the  house  of  a  great  Cantonese 
mandarin.  When  the  British  took  Canton,  they  annexed 
this  beautiful  place  as  the  residence  for  their  repre- 
sentative, and  for  many  years  it  was  occupied  by  our 
Consul  and  his  staff.  But  these  officials  now  live  in 
modern  houses  built  on  the  Shameen,  and  the  old  Yamen 
is  the  house  of  Consular  students  sent  here  to  study  the 
Chinese  language.  I  went  with  a  friend  to  call  on 
them  one  Sunday,  and  was  greatly  taken  with  the  quiet 
beauty  of  the  place ;  the  grounds  are  studded  with  fine 
trees,  and  paved  walks  and  terraces  —  it  is  like  an 
oasis  set  in  the  midst  of  dirty,  noisy  Canton.  The 
students,  whom   we  wanted   to   see,   were   not  at   home ; 

25 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

but  of  course  we  were  hospitably  invited  to  go  inside 
and  have  a  cooling  drink,  and  wait  for  their  arrival. 
So  we  sat  on  the  terrace,  smoking  and  chatting,  when 
along  the  entrance-way  tore  some  of  the  roughest-look- 
ing ponies  I  have  seen.  The  riders  were  our  friends — 
returning,  to  judge  by  the  mud-bespattered  appearance 
of  horses  and  men,  from  a  long  and  rough  ride.  The 
ponies  were  small,  many-coloured  and  undipped  ;  long 
manes  and  tails  and  varied  accoutrements  giving  the 
whole  quite  a  wild  look  as  they  galloped  into  this 
secluded  garden. 

The  water  at  Canton  is  of  a  very  distinctive  character, 
as  was  made  apparent  to  me  one  day  when  painting  a 
picturesque  group  of  buildings,  a  Lekin  Station,  from 
across  Defence  Creek.  An  elderly  Chinese  came  along 
and  was  much  interested  in  my  work,  looking  at  it  from 
the  back  and  each  side,  and  attempting  to  feel  it  with 
a  long  finger-nail.  He  ultimately  asked  me  what  I  was 
painting  it  with ;  and  as  I  did  not  at  once  reply,  he  picked 
one  of  my  brushes  out  of  the  water-ball,  and  putting 
it  to  his  nose  smelt  it  and  said,  "  Ah !  blong  all  same 
Canton  water." 

My  first  nights  here  were  somewhat  disturbed  by  the 

weird  noises  which  came  from  the  Native  City,  it  being 

just  after  China  New  Year — the  queer  sound  of  a  native 

pipe,  the  booming  of  a  drum,  or  tom-tom,  and  the  calls 

of  the  watch  on  our  own  side ;    all  added   to  the  busy 
26 


CANTON   FROM   THE   WALLS 

activity  of  mosquitoes  buzzing  round  my  net,  and  occa- 
sionally making  their  way  in.  I  felt  I  was  in  a  country 
such  as  there  is  not  elsewhere  to  be  found. 

I  had  a  look  at  the  little  Macao  Fort,  which  was 
stormed  and  taken  by  the  British  in  past  times ;  it  seems 
but  a  poor  little  place  now. 

I  went  on  a  launch  one  day  with  a  young  friend  some 
distance  up  river  above  Canton,  landing  at  a  small 
village,  which  I  thought  might  yield  artistic  tribute ;  we 
were  immediately  surrounded  by  the  villagers,  who 
probably  did  not  often  see  foreigners.  After  making  our 
way  through  various  temples,  of  no  particular  distinction, 
and  going  through  a  doorway  in  the  wall,  we  came  on  a 
quaint  little  village  street,  quite  narrow  and  lined  with 
stalls  and  shops,  and  full  of  brilliant  colour.  I  at  once 
resolved  to  get  a  sketch  of  it,  and  took  my  position  in 
a  corner,  under  a  wall  and  slightly  raised ;  the  crowd 
increased,  and  so  did  the  noise,  and  when  I  was  seen 
to  open  my  colour-box  it  became  in  that  crowd  a  case  of 
"  might  was  right."  They  fought  and  pushed  and  pulled 
to  get  a  front  place  ;  the  noise  was  deafening,  but  I  sat 
there  solidly  for  two  hours,  with  my  friend  by  my  side 
trying  to  keep  them  from  quite  overwhelming  me.  Then 
I  gave  in  and  made  a  move  to  go,  but  was  given  to  under- 
stand that  they  wanted  to  see  what  I  had  done ;  so  my 
sketch   was   passed    round  and    carefully    examined,    and 

then   handed   back   to   me,   many  of    the   elders   bowing 

27 


CHINA:    ITS    MARVEL   AND    MYSTERY 

graciously  to  signify  their  approval ;  and  we  returned  to 
our  boat  escorted  by  the  whole  population.  My  friend 
remarked  that,  if  they  had  known  in  time,  they  would 
probably  have  arranged  things  better  and  sold  the  front 
places  to  the  highest  bidder. 

On  the  rivers  around  Canton  are  many  ''  duckeries." 
An  old  junk,  with  wood  platforms  projecting  out  and 
afloat  on  the  water,  forms  the  house  of  the  duck-keeper 
and  his  family,  and  of  the  ducks,  which  are  bred  in  large 
numbers ;  they  live  on  the  river  in  this  manner,  and  are 
partly  fed  there,  but  also  are  put  ashore  at  suitable  places 
for  feeding,  and  are  like  a  regiment  of  soldiers  under 
command  of  an  officer.  The  duck-keeper  directs  opera- 
tions with  a  long  slender  pole.  I  /lave  eaten  Chinese 
duck,  but  I  do  not  wish  for  any  more. 


28 


CHAPTER  VI 

SHANGHAI 

Arrival  at  Woosung— Up  River— The  Bund— Nanking  Road— The  Bubbling  Well— 
The  Departure  from  China  of  Sir  Robert  Hart. 

THE  approach  to  Shanghai  from  the  sea  offers  a 
great  contrast  to  that  at  Hong  Kong.  Here  no 
towering  Peak  greets  the  traveller's  eye;  but, 
as  the  ship  enters  the  mouth  of  the  Whangpoo  at 
Woo-sung  (the  Pilot  Station),  twelve  miles  from  the  city, 
the  nearness  of  the  great  trading  centre  of  the  Far  East 
is  suggested  by  the  large  numbers  of  steam-craft,  tugs, 
and  dredgers  interspersed  with  numerous  native  boats  of 
quaint  design,  large  and  small,  plying  busily  hither  and 
thither. 

The  water-way  is  here  a  mile  or  more  in  width, 
bordered  by  a  flat  landscape,  almost  Dutch  in  character 
though  not  in  colour.  The  course  of  the  river  has  been 
altered  considerably  from  time  to  time,  by  Nature  and 
man,  and  the  hard  task  of  keeping  open  this  great  com- 
mercial highway  is  the  duty  of  European  conservators, 
who  have  their  hands  full. 

Off  Woosung    the    great    liners    lie    anchored,   until 

lightened  of  part  of  their  cargo,  that  they  may  pass  up 

29 


CHINA:   ITS    MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

the  river,  and  one  may  see  the  white  hull  of  an  Empress, 
or  the  dark  mass  of  the  P.  &  O.  or  German  mails,  or 
the  blue  funnels  of  a  Holt  cargo  steamer.  Here  pas- 
sengers are  transferred  to  the  launches  waiting  to  take 
them  up  to  Shanghai,  on  the  last  stage  of  their  long 
journey.  The  yellow  waters  of  the  Whangpoo  run  swiftly, 
and  this,  added  to  the  strong  tide,  makes  navigation  no 
easy  matter. 

Soon  we  began  to  see  buildings  of  European  character, 
plain  and  solid,  and  factories  with  tall  chimneys ;  we 
could  read  the  names  of  European  commercial  firms ;  and 
when  we  got  up  as  far  as  Hongkew  we  realised  that 
indeed  we  had  reached  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the 
Far  East,  reminding  us  of  some  of  our  ports  at  home 
in  the  similarity  of  the  river  approach  and  traffic. 

I  was  met  on  landing  at  the  wharf  by  my  relatives, 
and,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  number  of  coolies  and 
rickshas,  could  almost  imagine  myself  at  home ;  but 
as  I  was  driven  away  along  the  fine  Bund,  the  chief 
thoroughfare  facing  the  river,  on  which  are  all  the 
finest  commercial  buildings,  banks,  and  the  fine  Shanghai 
Club,  I  soon  saw  evidence  of  the  mixed  nature  of  the 
population. 

There  is  no  sharp  line  of  demarcation  in  the  European 

settlement  of  Shanghai  between  the  streets  inhabited  by 

the  Chinese  and  those  occupied  by  Europeans ;  the  houses 

in     the     Nankin     Road,    for    instance,    changing    their 
30 


SHANGHAI 

character  as  one  proceeds,  although  the  native  city  is 
and  always  has  been  walled  in  and  quite  separate  from 
the  foreign  settlement. 

The  native-built  houses  usually  differ  from  those  built 
by  Europeans,  in  being  highly  ornate  and  more  cheaply 
and  slightly  constructed.  The  shop-signs  in  the  Nankin 
and  Foochow  Roads  and  other  thoroughfares  are  wonder- 
fully picturesque  in  red,  gold,  and  other  colours,  and  of 
all  shapes  and  sizes.  Passing  along,  one  notices  crowds 
at  the  upper  windows,  drinking  tea  and  smoking ;  while 
in  the  street,  side  by  side  with  the  fine  equipage  of  the 
foreign  merchant,  may  be  seen  the  wheelbarrow,  pushed 
by  the  coolie  in  scanty  attire,  carrying  perhaps  a  whole 
family ;  a  single  passenger  must  be  tilted  to  one  side,  to 
keep  the  barrow  balanced.  A  wonderful  medley  of  East 
and  West !  rickshas  speeding  along,  bicycles  ridden 
by  natives  and  foreigners,  and  even  the  latest  in  motor 
cars,  for  which  there  must  be  a  great  future.  The  Chinese 
are  taking  up  motors ;  they  love  speed,  so  the  motor 
suits  them ;  but  as  yet  they  can  only  use  a  motor  in  the 
foreign  settlement  where  are  roads  fit  to  drive  on.  I  have 
heard  that  on  first  seeing  a  motor  car  a  Chinaman  re- 
marked:  "What  thing!  No  pushee,  no  pullee,  go  like 
hellee!     Hi  yah!" 

No  one  can  visit  Shanghai  without  realising  that  it 
is  destined  to  be  of  still  greater  importance  when  it 
becomes     the    centre,    as     it    soon     must,    of    a    large 

31 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

railway  traffic,  as  well  as  being  what   it  is  now,  a  great 
seaport. 

The  more  central  part  of  the  settlements  is  the  most 
densely  populated,  and  the  land  very  valuable  in  all  the 
Concessions,  the  British  and  American  being  under  one 
Council.  The  residential  quarter,  much  as  at  home,  has 
been  gradually  pushed  out  farther  and  farther  from  the 
centre  of  the  city. 

The  American  Concession  of  Hongkew  is  reached  by 
crossing  the  new  iron  bridge  over  the  Soochow  Creek, 
and  has  a  long  and  valuable  frontage  on  the  Whangpoo 
River,  where  large  "godowns"  (warehouses)  and  wharves, 
shipbuilding  and  engineering  yards,  are  springing  up  on 
every  side.  Lying  back  from  the  river  is  a  large  resi- 
dential quarter.  In  the  opposite  direction  by  the  Nankin 
Road  one  reaches  the  fine  Racecourse  and  Recreation 
Ground,  which  only  a  few  years  ago  was  open  fields. 
Here  the  foreign  residents  of  sporting  proclivities  formerly 
held  their  "  paper-hunts."  They  are  obliged  to  go  farther 
afield  now ;  but  with  commendable  foresight  this  fine 
open  space  was  rescued  from  the  hands  of  the  builder, 
and  thus  preserved  for  future  generations.  Beyond  the 
Racecourse  is  the  Bubbling  Well  Road,  so  called  from 
the  famous  well  at  the  farther  end  of  it.  As  to  this, 
Mr.  J.  R.  Chitty,  in  his  "Things  Seen  in  China,"  gives 
an  interesting  story  told  by  a  Chinese  Amah.     *'  A  certain 

young    woman    of    low    but    wealthy    parentage    having 
32 


SHANGHAI 

'married  well'  from  the  social  standpoint,  and  attained 
apparently  to  a  somewhat  high  standard  of  affection  for 
her  elderly  husband,  found  herself  threatened  with  divorce, 
owing  to  her  childless  condition.  Her  lord  having  given 
her  but  one  more  calendar  year  to  fulfil  the  obligation 
of  presenting  him  with  the  necessary  son,  she  wandered 
forth  alone  to  bewail  her  fate;  for  the  equivalent  of 
perpetual  'old  maidhood'  lay  before  her,  and  she  was 
but  twenty-three  years  old,  though  married  eight  years. 
She  sat  by  the  well  and  wept  to  all  her  gods,  her  tears 
falling  into  the  little  streamlet.  Presently  the  silent 
waters  began  to  bubble  furiously ;  whereupon  she  rose 
up,  and,  adjourning  to  the  nearest  shrine,  told  a  priest 
the  story,  and  vowed  that  a  proper  joss-house  should  be 
built  as  near  the  spot  as  possible,  if  a  son  was  born  within 
a  twelvemonth.  It  fell  out  as  she  desired,  and  the  joss- 
house  was  built.  The  proof  remains  in  the  fact  that 
the  well  still  bubbles  I" 

This  is  one  of  the  chief  boulevards  used  by  the  foreign 
residents  in  the  hot  summer  evenings  for  driving,  and 
also  by  the  well-to-do  Chinamen,  who  have  not  been 
against  taking  advantage  of  some  of  the  luxuries  of  the 
Westerners ;  for  among  the  stream  of  carriages  on  this 
favourite  road  one  can  see  in  a  well-built  and  equipped 
open  carriage,  with  mafoos  (coachmen)  uniformed  in  white 
linen  and  with  a  red  tassel  on  their  hats,  probably  three 
or    four  solemn-looking  Chinese   (they  often   more   than 

C  33 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

fill  the  carriage) — or,  again,  a  young  spark  in  his  high 
dog-cart  driving  his  fast  pony,  his  mafoo  standing  or 
sitting  behind.  I  noticed  that  most  of  the  Chinese  of 
this  class  wore  Panama  hats — the  only  article  of  apparel 
in  any  way  approaching  our  own,  but  usually  set  on 
the  head  with  a  knowing  tip  to  the  side,  and  part  of  the 
brim  turned  dow^n. 

The  Chinese  favour  very  fast  ponies ;  and  so  fast  do 
they  drive  that  the  action,  being  forced,  becomes  more 
what  we  know  as  "pacing"  than  trotting.  Their  main 
idea  is  to  pass  anything  else  on  the  road. 

The  houses  round  here  are  well  built,  of  European 
character,  and  often  of  striking  architecture,  varying  from 
the  more  ordinary  solid  red  brick  edifice  with  spacious 
verandahs,  to  the  black  and  white  old  English  style, 
with  one  or  two  of  even  greater  pretensions  and  almost 
palatial  in  size.  They  stand  in  considerable  grounds, 
with  many  trees,  and  are  altogether  delightful  residences, 
from  which  (I  can  testify)  is  dispensed  lavish  hospitality. 
These  are  the  homes  of  the  well-to-do  merchants ;  but 
here  and  there  we  find  that  a  wealthy  Chinese  has 
stepped  in  and  purchased  one,  and  lives  under  European 
rule,  and  pays  his  rates  and  taxes  like  any  other  good 
citizen. 

Good  services  of  electric  trams  connect  up  this  and 
the  other  suburbs  with  the  central   part.     The  foreigner 
has  pushed  even  across  the  big  yellow  Wangpoo  River 
34 


SHANGHAI 

and  built  many  factories,  engineering  and  other  works 
on  the  farther  bank ;  and  from  the  Bund,  which  is  the 
hub  of  Shanghai,  constant  intercourse  with  this  quarter 
is  kept  up  by  numerous  steam-launches.  On  this  part 
of  the  river  are  anchored  many  ships  large  and  small, 
with  one  or  two  gunboats  of  the  Western  powers  always 
on  guard,  and  with  a  few  small  Chinese  war-vessels 
mostly  employed  in  the  Customs  Service. 

Speaking  of  the  latter  service,  I  had  the  good  fortune, 
during  my  stay  in  Shanghai,  to  see  a  most  touching  scene 
which  I  should  have  been  sorry  to  miss :  this  was  nothing 
less  than  the  departure  of  that  grand  old  man  of  China, 
Sir  Robert  Hart,  whose  name  must  ever  be  indissolubly 
connected  with  the  history  of  that  great  empire,  for  which 
he  has  done  so  much.  A  notable  scene  it  was,  not  from 
its  pomp  or  ceremony,  but  rather  from  the  simplicity  of 
it  all.  It  impressed  one  with  the  great  respect  in  which 
their  chief  was  held  by  all  ranks  of  the  service  over 
which  he  presided. 

The  Chinese  love  fire-works,  and  use  them  on  every 
possible  occasion  ;  and  not  being  allowed  to  do  so  on 
land  in  a  foreign  settlement,  they  had  secured  some  junks 
near  by,  and  at  the  time  of  departure  sent  forth  volleys 
of  banging  crackers,  wheels,  rockets,  and  the  like,  with 
a  prodigious  noise,  amidst  which  the  launch  moved  off. 
So  departed  from  China  one  of  the  greatest  Englishmen 
of  our  time.     Long  may  he  enjoy  his  well-earned  rest. 

35 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

There  is  almost  as  much  contrast  between  East  and 
West  on  the  river,  as  on  land.  Off  the  native  city  lie 
scores  of  junks,  of  all  kinds,  some  from  Ningpo,  with 
their  very  high  sterns  where  the  families  on  board  live : 
I  say  families  advisedly,  because  in  many  cases  there 
are  several  generations  on  board.  Grotesque  painting 
decorates  the  outside,  gaily  coloured  pictures  of  wondrous 
animals  in  all  colours.  Then  there  are  the  large  junks 
which  carry  passengers  to  the  various  rivers  of  this  part. 
There  are  other  boats  which  seem  past  moving,  and  simply 
serve  as  homes  for  those  on  board ;  and  there  they  lie, 
side  by  side,  the  population  passing  from  one  to  the 
other.  They  almost  seem  like  an  extension  of  the  city 
itself,  so  thick  are  they.  And,  oh !  the  filth  and  dirt,  the 
garbage  of  all  kinds !  The  measly  looking  cur  dogs 
prowl  about  the  water-side  and  among  the  boats,  picking 
up  what  they  can. 


36 


SHANGHAI  :    THE    NEW    MALOO,    NATIVE 

CITY 


CHAPTER  VII 
SHANGHAI  NATIVE  CITY 

Its  Entrance  and  Streets — The  New  Maloo — The  Old  Tea  House  and  its  Legend — 
The  Piece-Goods  Temple — Difficulties  of  Painting — My  Sedan  Chair — 
Police  Interference — "You  wanchee  one  Licence" — Permit  Obtained — My 
Work  at  a  China  Shop  and  at  the  Old  Tea  House. 

THE  Native  City  is  reached  by  passing  through  the 
French  Concession.  It  forms  as  complete  a  con- 
trast to  the  European  Settlement  as  can  well 
be  imagined.  On  approaching  the  boundary  between 
the  two,  we  notice  that  the  houses  diminish  in  size 
and  importance,  and  are  much  more  Chinese  in  style ; 
but  at  the  dirty  little  creek  which  forms  the  real 
boundary  line  this  creek  sweeps  right  round  the  original 
Settlement  to  the  Soochow  Creek,  and  formed  at  that 
time  a  natural  means  of  defence  which  is  still  known  as 
Defence  Creek.  Along  this  creek  there  are  many  small 
shops  for  the  sale  of  all  sorts  of  hardware,  and  many  a 
good  old  bronze  has  been  picked  up  here.  We  then 
reach  the  old  walls  of  the  Native  City.  Huddled  against 
them  are  dirty  native  houses,  booths,  and  stalls,  and  on 
crossing  the  bridge  and  entering  the  gate  we  meet  with 
perhaps  the  greatest  contrast  in  all  China. 

Within    a    few     hundred    yards     of    these     modern 

C2  37 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

buildings,  constructed  according  to  all  the  latest  ideas 
of  civilisation,  we  are  at  once  carried  back  to  the  condi- 
tions prevailing  in  the  Middle  Ages  in  our  own  country. 

Plunging  into  a  low,  dark,  and  evil-smelling  tunnel, 
or  passage,  through  the  wall,  we  see  the  old  gates  fitted 
with  immense  wooden  bars  for  closing  them  at  night. 
Beggars  are  everywhere,  cripples  with  grotesque  and 
unusual  deformities,  and  other  sufferers.  The  air  is  filled 
with  the  loud  cries  of  the  small  huckster  announcing 
the  nature  of  his  wares. 

Quaint  little  shops  line  the  narrow  passages,  whose 
greasy  pavement  exhales  the  rich,  close,  and  altogether 
peculiar  odour  so  familiar  to  all  old  residents  in  the 
Celestial  Empire.  A  few  more  narrow  streets  and  we 
come  to  the  New  Maloo,  so  called,  of  greater  width — and, 
at  any  rate,  a  potential  carriage  road,  if  indeed  a  carriage 
could  reach  it,  though  at  present  this  is  quite  out  of 
the  question.  Leaving  this  picturesque  street  with  its 
quaint  signs,  busy  shops,  and  crowds  of  people,  one 
dives  once  more  through  intricate  passages  and  emerges 
at  the  Bird  Market,  there  to  be  deafened  by  the  cease- 
less songs  of  the  birds,  the  shouts  of  the  salesmen  and 
their  customers.  Near  at  hand,  surrounded  by  water, 
stands  the  Old  Tea  House,  famous  as  the  original  from 
which  the  inspiration  was  taken  for  the  design  on  the 
willow-pattern  plate.     Here  are  bridges  of  zig-zag  pattern 

leading  to    the    beautiful    old    building,   with    its    many 
38 


SHANGHAI   NATIVE   CITY 

gables  and  quaint  windows  of  oyster  shell,  built  on  piles 
and  tilted  considerably  out  of  the  perpendicular.  One 
can  see  it  all  on  the  old  blue  plates. 

Legend  of  the  Willow  Pattern 

{From  "  How  to  Know  Old  China  ") 

"  Koong-Shee  was  the  daughter  of  a  wealthy  man- 
darin, and  loved  Chang,  her  father's  secretary.  The 
mandarin,  who  wished  his  daughter  to  marry  a  wealthy 
suitor,  forbade  the  marriage,  and  shut  his  daughter  in' 
an  apartment  on  the  terrace  of  the  house  which  is  seen 
in  the  pattern  to  the  left  of  the  temple.  From  her 
prison  Koong-Shee  watched  '  the  willow-tree  blossom,* 
and  wrote  poems  in  which  she  expressed  her  ardent 
longings  to  be  free  ere  the  peach  bloomed.  Chang 
managed  to  communicate  with  her  by  means  of  a 
writing  enclosed  in  a  small  cocoanut-shell,  which  was 
attached  to  a  tiny  sail,  and  Koong-Shee  replied  in  these 
words,  *  Do  not  wise  husbandmen  gather  the  fruits  they 
fear  will  be  stolen  ? '  and  sent  them  in  a  boat  to  her  lover. 

"  Chang,  by  means  of  a  disguise,  entered  the  man- 
darin's garden  and  succeeded  in  carrying  off  Koong-Shee. 
The  three  figures  on  the  bridge  represent  Koong-Shee 
with  a  distaff,  Chang  carrying  a  box  of  jewels,  and  the 
mandarin  following  with  a  whip. 

"  The  lovers  escaped,  and  '  lived  happily  ever  after  *  in 

39 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Chang's  house  on  a  distant  island  until,  after  many  years, 
the  outraged  wealthy  suitor  found  them  out,  and  burnt 
their  house,  when,  from  the  ashes  of  the  bamboo  grove, 
their  two  spirits  rose,  phoenix-like,  in  the  form  of  two 
doves." 

These  bridges  are  lined  with  people  in  indolent  atti- 
tudes sunning  themselves,  many  of  them  having  birds 
in  cages,  or  tethered  to  sticks  or  their  wrists.  How  the 
Chinaman  loves  a  bird !  and  how  keen  is  the  competition 
to  obtain  good  songsters,  which  fetch  high  prices  !  To  this 
quaint  and  beautiful  place  he  brings  his  pets,  and  stands 
with  one,  two,  or  even  three  cages,  holding  them  in  turn 
out  over  the  water  in  the  sunshine ;  listening  intently,  and 
with  evident  delight,  to  their  music.  The  "yellow  eye- 
brow "  thrush  is  the  chief  favourite :  it  has  a  low  and 
mellow  note  and  fetches  $i  or  $1.50,  cage  and  all;  larks 
also  are  sometimes  on  sale.  The  scene  inside  the  Old  Tea 
House  is  a  busy  one;  crowds  drinking  tea,  smoking,  gossip- 
ing, and  transacting  business.  It  seems  to  me  that  from 
this  little  spot  alone,  one  could  form  a  tolerably  correct 
conception  of  the  Chinese  character  —  lovers  of  peace 
and  beauty,  and  withal  industrious  and  keen  in  business. 
Such  in  a  nutshell  is  my  estimate  of  the  qualities  pos- 
sessed by  the  Chinese,  qualities  indeed  of  which  any 
nation  might  be  proud,  and  without  which  any  people 
must  soon  degenerate. 

With   its  great   roofs   turned   up  at  the  corners,  the 
40 


SHANGHAI:    THE    PIECE-GOODS   TEMPLE, 
CITY   WALL 


«  "      c      «  c      t      f     "  ,  '     »        1 

•cc  cO  It*" 


SHANGHAI    NATIVE   CITY 

*'  Piece-Goods  Temple  "  (so  called  because  it  is  largely  used 
by  the  Chinese  merchants  who  deal  in  Manchester  piece- 
goods)  on  the  City  Wall  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  Southern  China.  It  also  has  oyster-shell  windows 
and  woodwork  framing  of  most  quaint  design,  the  centre 
of  each  casement  having  a  small  square  of  glass,  thus 
increasing  the  dim  light  admitted  by  the  oyster  shells. 

I  have  heard  travellers  say  that  there  is  nothing  to  see 
in  the  Native  City  of  Shanghai.  All  I  can  say  is  that 
such  people  must  be  entirely  lacking  in  appreciation  of 
things  quaint  and  beautiful.  The  few  streets  and  build- 
ings in  the  Native  City  which  I  have  mentioned  are  in 
themselves  worth  a  long  journey,  so  intensely  interesting 
and  peculiarly  characteristic  are  they. 

My  readers  can  well  imagine  that  it  was  not  an  easy 
task  to  paint  in  such  surroundings,  and  at  the  outset  I 
must  own  that  I  met  with  considerable  difficulty.  With 
the  aid  of  my  friends  I  had  a  Sedan  chair,  so  constructed 
that  I  could  get  shelter  from  the  sun  and  at  the  same  time 
light  for  my  work.  It  was  raised  so  that  I  could,  from  my 
seat,  see  over  the  heads  of  the  people  who  were  sure  to 
gather  round.  I  had  this  conveyed  to  the  New  Maloo,  and 
arranged  for  it  to  be  stored  in  a  temple  near  by  when  I 
was  not  at  work. 

No   sooner  had   I  started   painting  than  my  troubles 

began.     The  crowd  collected  ;  and,  in  spite  of  the  efforts  of 

my  boy  and  various  followers  to  keep  them  at  a  distance, 

41 


CHINA:   ITS   iMARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

their  curiosity  was  too  great  to  be  restrained.  "What  is 
this  foreign  devil  doing?  Why  does  he  sit  in  a  chair 
draped  in  white?"  (the  colour  of  mourning).  I  had  all 
unconsciously  used  white  calico  to  drape  my  chair,  for- 
getting that,  here,  white  was  a  sign  of  mourning;  but,  if 
they  supposed  there  was  a  corpse  inside,  they  must  soon 
have  found  it  was  a  fairly  lively  one. 

Soon  after  this  a  native  policeman  in  quaint  attire  came 
by,  and,  pushing  the  crowd  aside,  carefully  scrutinised  the 
drawing  I  was  doing.  He  marched  off  with  an  air  of  great 
importance,  returned  in  a  little  while  with  a  comrade,  and 
both  repeated  the  performance ;  then  after  further  conversa- 
tion with  my  retainers  they  went  away. 

I  went  on  quietly  with  my  work,  and  soon  found  that 
when  the  crowd  could  see  the  picture  growing,  and  that 
it  portrayed  the  scene  in  front  of  them,  they  became 
highly  interested.  On  my  return,  however,  to  the  same 
spot  next  morning,  I  had  hardly  started  to  work  when  the 
guardians  of  the  peace  again  made  their  appearance.  Their 
leader  this  time  had  silver  buttons,  and  was  accompanied 
by  his  underlings,  and  it  needed  little  observation  to  see 
that  a  crisis  in  my  fortunes  was  at  hand.  Accordingly  I 
put  on  my  best  expression  and  endeavoured  to  smile  as 
sweetly  as  possible  at  them,  and  told  my  boy  to  do  the 
same. 

Mr.  Silver-buttons  approached  me  politely,  the  crowd 

readily  making  way  for  him.     Looking  at  my  work  with 

42 


SHANGHAI    NATIVE   CITY 

a  critical  air,  he  made  remarks  which,  of  course,  I  could  not 
in  the  least  understand  ;  so  I  called  my  boy  and  asked  him 
to  take  the  gentleman  aside  so  that  he  should  not  obstruct 
the  view,  and  to  talk  to  him  as  long  as  he  liked.  Once 
more  I  was  left  in  peace  to  work  on  till  my  accustomed 
hour. 

That  night  I  said  to  my  boy,  "What  thing  in  city, 
boy?"  He  replied,  "Policeman  he  say,  you  wanchee 
makee  map  in  city,  you  wanchee  one  licence." 

A  talk  with  my  friends  resulted  in  my  return  to  the 
same  spot  next  day,  but  accompanied  by  a  gentleman 
with  more  knowledge  of  the  Chinese  than  I  then 
possessed.  I  had  hardly  begun  work  when  a  most 
important  functionary,  this  time  with  gold  buttons, 
arrived  with  Mr.  Silver-buttons  in  attendance  and  many 
other  satellites,  and  again  the  same  performance  was 
enacted. 

My  friend  now  took  the  field,  and,  drawing  them  to 

one   side,    a   great    discussion    ensued.      For   two    hours 

they  kept  up  their  discourse,  while  I  worked  on  peacefully, 

smiling    at    my    crowd,    and    taking    care    they    should 

occasionally  see  what  I  was  doing.     I  think  it  was  quite 

a  toss-up  which  group  held  the  more  important  position. 

I  wished  the  conversationalists  to  do  so,  and  I  think  in 

this  they  succeeded.      When  I  left  the  city  that  evening, 

it  was  with  the  knowledge  that,  if  my  work  was  to  go 

on,    I    must    obtain    official    permission    from    the    city 

43 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

authorities.  My  doubts  as  to  the  possibility  of  this 
were  soon  set  at  rest  by  a  letter  kindly  written  by  an 
influential  Chinese  gentleman  to  the  city  officials,  to 
whose  bureau  I  made  my  way.  I  was  most  politely 
received,  and  conducted  from  seat  to  seat,  and  from  room 
to  room,  until  ushered  into  the  presence  of  the  chief  man 
himself.  After  much  discussion  between  him  and  my 
interpreter  I  was  informed  to  my  great  satisfaction  that 
I  could  sketch  where  I  wished,  on  condition  I  informed 
the  police  in  what  part  of  the  city  I  wished  to  work, 
so  that  they  might  send  a  guard  for  my  protection. 
Such  attention  I  had  not  expected,  and  my  grateful 
thanks  are  due  to  the  authorities  for  looking  after  me 
so  well. 

Meantime  I  had  the  covering  of  my  chair  altered, 
replacing  the  white  by  a  less-noticeable  dark  blue.  I 
then  had  it  moved  to  a  fresh  place,  in  the  New  Maloo, 
just  outside  a  large  china  shop,  the  owner  of  which 
began  to  remonstrate  with  my  boy  when  he  saw  the  crowd 
gathering  round,  thinking  no  doubt  that  his  business 
would  be  likely  to  suffer.  At  that  moment  my  guard 
of  police  arrived  on  the  scene,  and  my  boy  informed 
them  of  the  shopkeeper's  objections.  The  only  answer 
vouchsafed  by  the  police  was  promptly  to  run  him  into 
his  own  shop,  where  he  was  told  to  stay. 

When  painting  the  Old  Tea  House,  I  had  to  place  my 

chair  close  to  the  water's  edge  so  that  no  one  could  get 
44 


SHANGHAI  :    NATIVE    CITY 

This  old  Tea-House  is  said  to  be  the  origin  of  the  Willow 
Pattern  Plate. 


t       « 

<■       t 

«  t  c  < 


SHANGHAI   NATIVE   CITY 

in  front ;  but  the  crowd  quite  blocked  the  narrow  street 
behind  me.  On  my  last  day  in  this  place,  a  letter  was 
handed  to  me  by  my  "boy,"  having  the  usual  red  band 
across  it,  and  written  in  Chinese.  When  I  asked  him 
what  it  meant,  he  said,  "  Master,  that  shopman  behind 
you,  he  talkee  my  you  have  spoilee  his  pidgin"  (pigeon 
English  for  "  business ").  I  said,  "  How  much,  boy  ? " 
"  One  dollar,  master,"  was  the  reply. 

That  shopman  was  wise ;  he  made  no  further  bother, 
and  got  his  money.  But  it  was  with  a  sigh  of  relief 
that  I  finished  my  work  here ;  the  heat  was  very  great, 
and  the  smells  very  bad,  while  amongst  the  crowds  who 
daily  assembled  round  me  were  often  most  loathsome 
creatures — many  times  I  would  look  up  from  my  work, 
to  see  perhaps  a  man  with  smallpox  sores.  Then  the 
dirtiness  of  some  of  them !  My  friends  used  to  laugh, 
as  they  saw  me,  before  starting  for  the  Native  City, 
sprinkle  myself  plentifully  with  Keating's  Powder ;  but  it 
was  necessary. 


45 


CHAPTER    VIII 

SHANGHAI  {continued) 

Drive  to  Loongwha — The  Temples — Tea  on  a  Grave — Objectionable  Practice  of 
Burial — Opium — Public  Burning  of  the  Fittings  of  an  Opium  Den — Prisoners 
in  the  Cangue — A  Hailstorm. 

A  PLEASANT  drive,  and  one  often  taken  by 
visitors,  is  by  the  Bubbling  Well  Road  or 
through  the  French  Settlement,  and  across  the 
Sicawai  Creek  past  the  Arsenal  to  Loongwha,  where 
there  is  a  fine  pagoda  and  large  temples.  The  latter 
show  in  a  remarkable  manner  what  I  would  call  the 
roof  architecture  of  Southern  China.  The  ridges  stand 
up  above  the  tiling,  and  are  most  profusely  decorated 
with  openwork  carving,  &c. ;  the  front  temple  in  this 
case  showing  in  the  centre  the  two  fish,  emblem  of 
plenty,  and  on  the  other  side  the  dragon,  and  at  the 
ends  swans.  The  corners  are  most  gracefully  curved, 
and  the  points  carried  up  high  in  a  striking  and 
quaint  manner,  giving  most  beautiful  "  lines "  to  the 
whole  design.  Under  each  point  hang  bells,  which 
tinkle  sweetly  in  the  breeze.  In  this  class  of  building, 
and,  indeed,  in  most  buildings  in  China,  the  roof  is  the 

great  and  outstanding  feature. 
46 


LOONGWHA    TEMPLES,   NEAR    SHANGHAI 


SHANGHAI 

While  I  was  at  work  here  one  day  my  friends 
drove  out  to  join  me,  bringing  tea,  and  on  my  asking 
innocently  "Did  they  propose  to  take  it  amidst  my  crowd"? 
"  Oh,  no,"  said  a  lady,  "  we  will  find  a  nice  grave  near." 
This,  to  me,  sounded  rather  strange  ;  but  obediently  we 
went  off  in  search  of  this  delectable  spot ;  and,  sure 
enough,  a  few  minutes'  walk  and  we  saw  an  enclosure 
where,  on  a  nice  green  mound,  were  trees  giving  pleasant 
shade.  There  we  made  our  tea  and  took  it,  a  few 
natives  looking  on  and  ready  to  seize  the  fragments 
left. 

Perhaps  the  most  objectionable  practice  in  this  part  of 
China  is  the  method  the  people  have  of  disposing  of 
their  dead.  Ancestor-worship  in  itself  is  to  my  mind  a 
very  beautiful  idea,  and,  I  think,  one  of  the  strongest 
points  in  the  habits  and  character  of  the  Chinese  ;  but  I 
cannot  see  why  they  should  drop  the  coffin  down  at  any 
point  thought  fit — be  it  near  human  habitation  or  a 
public  pathway]  matters  nothing  to  them.  There  they  lay 
it  down,  and  are  supposed  to  cover  it  with  earth ;  but  in 
many  cases  this  is  not  done,  and  the  coffin  with  its  grue- 
some contents  is  left  exposed  to  the  weather.  Even  if  on 
occasion  the  earth  is  put  over  the  coffin,  it  is  generally 
insufficient. 

This  happens  all  over  this  part  of  China ;  so  that  in 
the  back,  or  even  front,  garden  of  a  foreigner's  house  one 

may  see  a  grave  mound,  although  in  these  cases  it  has 

47 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

assumed  a  good  covering  of  green  turf,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  one  on  which  we  had  tea. 

On  my  way  out  one  day  to  Loongwha  I  found  just 
under  a  bridge  crossing  a  small  creek  this  notice :  "  The 
carriages  must  take  care  to  pass  this  bridge,  for  it  will 
be  broken."  The  pony  had  to  be  taken  out  and  led 
across,  and  then  the  carriage  pushed  over  on  planks. 

All  the  world  knows  how  the  opium  question  is 
stirring  China  at  the  present  time.  I  was  present  at  one 
little  incident  in  connection  with  this.  Notices  were 
posted  that  on  a  Sunday  afternoon,  at  some  tea-gardens 
on  the  Bubbling  Well  Road,  there  would  be  publicly 
burned  all  the  furnishings,  fittings,  pipes,  &c.,  of  an 
opium-den  recently  bought  up  and  closed  in  Shanghai. 
My  brother  and  I  went  to  see  this.  There  was  a  large 
crowd  of  Chinese  as  well  as  foreigners  of  all  nations, 
and  sympathy  for  the  anti-opium  movement  was  shown. 
Speeches  were  delivered  in  English  and  Chinese,  and  all 
the  articles  appertaining  to  opium-smoking  were  heaped 
into  a  sort  of  funeral  pyre,  and,  being  well  soaked  with 
paraffin  or  other  inflammable  stuff,  were  burnt.  I  may 
mention  that  most  of  the  silver  fittings  of  the  pipes  had 
been  carefully  removed — "Waste  not.  Want  not." 

The   treatment  of  native  criminals   in    Shanghai   did 

not  appeal    to   me.     It  was  not  a  pleasant  sight,  in   the 

course  of  your  walk  or  drive,  to  see   the  poor  wretches 

being   driven    by   uniformed    native    police    slowly   along 
48 


SHANGHAI 

the  streets,  with  the  cangue,  a  wooden  frame  which 
opens  to  allow  it  to  be  fastened  round  the  neck.  The 
cangue  is  very  heavy,  and  the  wearer  cannot  lie  down, 
nor  can  he  reach  his  mouth  to  feed  himself.  Besides, 
on  the  criminal  is  a  notice  describing  his  offence.  The 
idea  is,  I  believe,  to  show  how  he  has  lost  "face,"  and 
to  deter  others  from  offending  in  the  same  manner. 
There  are  the  chain-gangs,  too,  working  on  the  roads 
and  recreation-grounds,  dragging  heavy  rollers,  &c. 

Fires  are  rather  too  frequent ;  and,  although  there  is 
a  fine  volunteer  fire-brigade,  it  would  seem  as  if  the 
time  cannot  be  far  distant  when  the  Council  of  this 
most  progressive  place  will  be  obliged  to  have  a  paid 
professional  brigade.  The  volunteer  brigade  is  largely 
recruited  from  the  younger  foreigners,  and  their  em- 
ployers are  large-minded  enough  to  allow  them  to  be 
called  away  from  their  business,  or  if  out  all  night  (as 
frequently  happens),  to  overlook  the  unfitness  for  work 
next  day.  But  this  surely  cannot  continue,  nor  is  it 
right  that  it  should.  In  one  week,  during  my  stay, 
there  were  three  considerable  fires,  which  must  have 
been  not  only  a  very  heavy  tax  on  the  energies  of  the 
brigade  but  also  on  the  patience  of  the  employers.  One 
fire  I  saw  was  of  some  native  buildings  and  a  small 
wood-yard.  The  whole  thing  went  up  like  matchwood  ; 
and  but  for  the  very  smart  work  of  the  firemen,  with 
their  native  assistants,  it  must  have  extended  very  much 

D  49 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

farther.  The  night  before,  we  heard  the  fire-call  and 
learned  that  some  large  oil-mills  were  destroyed ;  and 
next  night  large  wood-yards  in  Hongkew  were  burnt 
out. 

The  variations  of  climate  are  about  the  same,  I 
fancy,  as  ours.  I  arrived  in  Shanghai  early  in  April,  to 
find  it  cold  and  wet,  and  that  kind  of  weather  prevailed 
throughout  that  month.  On  one  occasion  there  was  a 
great  hailstorm.  I  was  driving  with  my  brother  at 
the  time,  in  a  victoria,  and  so  large  were  the  hailstones 
that  we  were  glad  to  hold  the  leather  apron  up  in  front 
to  protect  ourselves.  When  it  ceased,  we  saw  the  small 
Chinese  children  running  to  collect  handfuls  of  the 
stones,  which  were  as  large  as  hazel-nuts  and  did  con- 
siderable damage,  breaking  windows,  &c.  In  May  the 
weather  improved  and  got  warmer,  and  by  the  end  of 
the  month  it  was  hot,  but  not  unpleasantly.  At  this 
time  I  set  off  on  my  house-boat  trip. 


50 


KWANGFOONG,    TAHU 

The  Great  Lake  north  of  Soochow. 


CHAPTER    IX        --fj:^\hi^ 

SOOCHOW  AND   TAHU 

House-Boats — No.  i  Boy — The  Shanghai-Nanking  Railway — On  our  Boats — 
Curiosity  of  the  Country  People — My  First  Impressions  of  Chinese  Water- 
ways— Bridges — Water-raising  Machines — Passing  through  a  Village. 

AN  expedition  to  Soochow  and  Tahu  which  I  was 
/  \  asked  to  join,  and  which  proved  most  enjoy- 
y  V  ^ble,  was  made  at  Easter.  Two  house-boats, 
the  Togo  and  the  Leila,  provided  ample  accommodation 
for  our  party ;  one  boat  was  quite  luxuriously  fitted  up, 
and  the  other  was  quite  comfortable.  One  could  not 
wish  for  more  comfortable  travelling  than  these  Shanghai 
house-boats  afford.  Of  course  they  are  specially  built 
for  foreigners*  use. 

The  No.  I  Boy  was  instructed  to  make  all  arrange- 
ments for  our  journey.  I  may  mention  that  the  No.  i 
Boy  in  a  European's  house  in  the  East  is  the  chief 
native  servant,  and  occupies  a  similar  position  to  the 
butler  at  home  (all  servants  are  called  "  boys,"  whatever 
their  age) ;  he  in  most  cases  runs  the  house ;  he  engages 
all  the  other  servants,  and  gets  his  squeeze  (commission) 
from  them  and  from  the  tradespeople,  and  although  he 
may  be  paid  a  fair  wage,  his  ** extras"  are  quite  con- 
siderable in  a  house  of  any  size. 

51 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

I  heard  the  orders  given  to  the  No.  i — Yung  Yung — 
who  has  been  in  the  family  nearly  all  his  life.  They 
were  short  but  clear: — 

"  Boy,  in  two  three  day  Missessee,  my,  young 
Missessee,  Missessee  O.  and  Mister  T.  (myself)  all  go 
house-boat,  seven  piecee  man,  you  go  house-boats,  talkee 
that  boatman,  make  all  thing  proper."  These  few  in- 
structions were  quite  enough  to  insure  everything  being 
made  ready  for  our  trip. 

To  save  time  and  get  quickly  up  country,  the  boats 
were  ordered  to  proceed  in  advance  to  Soochow,  where 
we  would  meet  them,  while  we  travelled  by  the  new 
Shanghai-Nanking  Railway,  which  is  quite  equal  to  any 
of  our  home  railways  in  smooth  running  and  accommo- 
dation. At  Soochow  we  found  our  boats  waiting  for 
us  in  the  creek  quite  near  the  station,  which  is  outside 
the  city  walls.  Like  our  own  folks  sixty  or  seventy 
years  ago,  the  Chinese  try  to  keep  their  railways  out- 
side the  cities,  and  I  suppose  in  time  to  come  they  will 
like  ourselves  be  sorry  for  it. 

We   at  once   went    on   board,    and  were    soon    being 

quietly  propelled  along  by  our  coolies  with  three  great  oars 

or  yuloos,  two   to   each  boat  with   three  coolies  to  each 

yuloo ;   it  is  a  very  pleasant  movement,  and  a  delightful 

change,  after  the  noise  of  the  city  life,  to  get  away  quietly  on 

the  water.     I  in  particular  felt  the  relief  of  being  away  from 

the  crowds  of  natives  swarming  round  me  as  I  worked. 
52 


SOOCHOW  AND  TAHU 

We  left  Soochow  at  once,  being  anxious  to  get 
farther  up  to  the  district  of  the  Tahu  (Great  Lake). 
Our  first  afternoon's  journey  took  us  above  Mutu, 
where,  near  a  picturesque  bridge,  we  tied  up  for  the 
night.  No  sooner  had  we  come  to  anchor  than  the 
curious  native  appeared,  and  many  crowded  round  on 
the  banks  watching  us;  they  were  much  interested  in 
the  ladies  and  children  of  our  party — we  men  are  more 
common,  and  do  not  excite  such  curiosity. 

The  country  folks  are  most  inquisitive  about  Euro- 
pean ladies  and  children,  and  wish  to  closely  examine 
and  finger  their  dresses.  The  fair,  daintily-dressed 
children  seemed  specially  to  please  them.  The  Chinese 
are  very  fond  of  children,  and  I  have  heard  it  said  that 
a  foreigner  might  go  anywhere  in  China,  not  only  with 
safety  but  sure  of  great  courtesy,  if  accompanied  by  a 
young  child. 

It  was  on  this  trip  that  I  got  my  first  impressions 
of  the  creeks  and  rivers  which  lead  into  the  interior,  and 
along  which  for  centuries  has  been  borne  the  merchandise 
of  China.  Until  now,  water  carriage  has  been  the  principal 
means  of  conveyance  in  this  (and  indeed  a  large)  part  of 
China,  and  by  water  one  can  go  almost  anywhere.  It  is 
like  a  vast  network  spreading  all  over  the  country,  extend- 
ing far  and  near ;  providing  at  the  same  time  easy  means 
of  irrigation,  maintaining  thereby  the  richness  and  fertility 

of  the  land  and  a  ready  means  of  transit  for  its  products. 

D  2  53 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

The  wonderful  waterways  of  China  have  been  a  source 
of  wealth  to  all  and  sundry,  affording  great  employment 
of  capital  and  labour ;  and  although  now  railways  are 
being  rapidly  built,  and  will  doubtless  prove  of  inesti- 
mable value,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  these  great  waterways 
will  not  be  allowed  to  fall  into  disuse.  Here  one  sees 
a  junk  deep  in  the  quiet  water  moving  along  under  her 
great  sail,  there  a  small  sampan,  and — sign  of  the  times  ! — 
there  again  a  noisy,  puffing  steam  launch,  towing  her 
train  of  native  boats,  all  laden  to  the  water's  edge  with 
the  various  products  of  this  rich  land,  or  conveying  in- 
land some  of  the  manufactures  of  Western  countries. 

We  pass  through  many  bridges  built  of  finely  dressed 
stone,  some  with  one  span,  and  others  with  several, 
and  reminding  one  strongly  of  the  Venetian  bridges ; 
and  I  could  not  help  reflecting  on  how  much,  in  the 
past.  Southern  Europe  must  have  borrowed  from  China, 
and  how  things  are  now  reversed,  and  China  is  bor- 
rowing from  the  West.  It  is  but  the  inevitable  swing 
of  the  pendulum. 

Soon  after  leaving  Mutu,  we  began  to  approach  a 
more  hilly  country,  but  with  great  tracts  of  flat  land, 
through  which  the  waterways  ran,  fertilising  and  enrich- 
ing it.  The  rich  yet  tender  green  of  springtime  showed 
the  luxuriant  growth  of  highly  cultivated  land — belts  of 
brilliant  yellow,  the  flower  of  the  rape — clumps  of  trees 
here  and  there ;  the  whole  making  a  beautiful  landscape. 
54 


NEAR    MUTU,    ABOVE    SOOCHOW 


\<^ 


SOOCHOW  AND  TAHU 

On  rising  ground  stands  a  high  pagoda  showing  out 
against  the  distant  hills. 

In  the  fields  we  could  see  the  industrious  people  tilling 
their  land,  some  hoeing  -and  weeding,  others  carrying 
liquid  from  tanks,  and  spreading  it  on  the  soil,  while 
the  smell  was  wafted  in  the  air  towards  us.  Nothing 
is  wasted  in  China. 

This  method  of  intense  cultivation  by  the  use  of  rank 
manure  does  not  commend  itself  to  the  foreigner,  who 
requires  to  be  very  careful  as  to  what  vegetables  he  eats, 
and  is  often  obliged  to  avoid  them  altogether,  especially 
salads  and  uncooked  vegetables. 

On  the  banks  of  the  creeks  are  fitted  quaintly  formed 
machines  for  lifting  the  water  up  for  irrigation.  A  long 
wooden  trough  is  carried  down  into  the  water,  with  a 
continuous  belt  with  pieces  of  wood  fitting  the  trough ; 
some  of  these  are  worked  by  coolies  and  some  larger  ones 
by  water  buffaloes,  and  the  creaking  noise  of  grinding 
wood  is  heard  far  off  in  the  still  evening  air  as  the  coolies 
or  animals  go  their  monotonous  round. 

Here  we  come  to  a  row  of  quaint  stone  structures, 
widows*  monuments,  and  entrances  leading  to  the  tombs 
of  former  great  ones  of  the  district. 

Passing  through  one  village,  we  had   great  difficulty 

to  get  our  boats  along  between  the  houses  on  the  canal ; 

it  was  so  narrow  that  at  times  we  rubbed  along  touching 

houses  on  both  sides,  with  the  natives  viewing  us  from 

SS 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

their  windows.  Heated  arguments  arose  between  our 
coolies  and  others  as  to  the  best  method  of  getting 
along;  and  people  crowded  on  the  bridges,  to  watch  our 
slow  progress  and  criticise  us  and  our  belongings.  Our 
cook  would  take  such  an  opportunity  as  this  to  go  ashore 
and  make  purchases  of  chickens,  eggs,  &c.,  and  join  us 
farther  on. 

By-and-bye  we  reached  a  wide  stretch  of  water  near 
Kwangfoong,  the  character  of  which  in  the  Tahu  district 
is  somewhat  akin  to  our  English  Lake  district.  The 
hills  are  rather  of  the  same  character,  soft  and  green, 
and  rising  to  more  ruggedness  farther  up.  At  Kwang- 
foong is  a  fine  pagoda;  the  village  is  small  and  unim- 
portant with  various  temples ;  there  is  a  fine  three-span 
bridge  crossing  the  water  here,  a  view  of  which  I  give 
in  my  picture  taken  from  a  mandarin's  grave  on  the 
hillside. 

An  attempt  was  made  to  shoot  some  snipe  near  here, 
on  a  flat  and  marshy  island,  but  the  season  was  late, 
and  the  birds  not  plentiful,  so  that  our  larder  did  not 
greatly  benefit. 

We  stayed  some  days  in  this  beautiful  neighbour- 
hood, making  various  excursions,  examining  temples,  and 
sketching.  Our  two  boats  anchored  in  a  snug  corner 
under  a  hill,  where  we  received  visits  from  many  natives, 
who  were  especially  interested  in  us  at  meal-times,  and 

would   try  to   look   in   at   our  cabin   windows   when   we 
56 


AT    WONG-DONG:     CORMORANT    FISHING 


SOOCHOW  AND  TAHU 

were  at  the  table.  But  they  objected  to  be  photographed 
or  sketched,  and  a  sure  way  to  make  them  go  off  was 
to  point  a  camera  at  them,  or  make  a  pretence  of  draw- 
ing them,  when  they  would  immediately  hide  their  faces 
while  moving  away. 

Our  return  journey  was  by  much  the  same  route,  but 
it  was  just  as  interesting  seeing  it  all  again ;  indeed  one 
seemed  to  enjoy  it  even  more.  One  object  which  greatly 
attracted  me  was  a  bridge  over  the  Canal  at  a  small 
village,  Wong-Dong;  on  the  bridge  was  a  quaint  old 
joss-house.  I  was  able  to  make  a  sketch  of  this,  with 
some  cormorant  fishing-boats  in  the  foreground.  The 
method  of  catching  fish  with  cormorants,  as  far  as  I 
could  see,  was  as  follows  :  Spars  project  over  the  side 
of  the  boat,  and  on  these  are  perched  the  birds ;  the 
fisherman  has  a  light  cane,  and  with  this  lightly  touches 
the  bird  he  wishes  to  go,  and  it  immediately  dives  for  a 
fish ;  on  the  bird's  return  to  the  boat,  the  fisherman  takes 
the  fish.  A  ring  placed  round  the  cormorant's  neck  pre- 
vents it  swallowing  thq  fish. 

The  Woo  Men  Bridge  at  Soochow  is  another  and 
one  of  the  finest  of  these  beautiful  buildings  crossing  the 
Grand  Canal,  cleanly  built  of  face  stone,  and  taking  a 
graceful  sweep  upwards  and  over  the  great  arch. 

Soochow  is  rather  like  Hangchow,  but  not,  I  think, 
so   beautiful,    in   spite   of   the   Chinese   proverb  which    I 

mention    in    my    Hangchow  chapters.      The   streets   are 

57 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

narrow,  with  good  shops,  and  the  usual  bustling  crowds. 
By  the  way  these  narrow  streets  seem  to  me  to  give  a 
greatly  exaggerated  idea  of  the  population  of  Chinese 
cities,  the  people  being  so  crowded  together  in  the 
narrow  lanes. 

We  had  a  look  at  the  famous  pagoda  in  this  city.  It 
is  of  great  age,  nine  storeys  in  height,  with  an  immense 
circumference  at  the  base.  It  is  built  with  double  walls, 
the  staircase  occupying  the  space  between. 


58 


THE    BRIDGE   AT    KWANGFOONG 

As  seen  from  a  Mandarin's  grave. 


CHAPTER  X 

HANGCHOW 

House-boat  Trip  to  Bing-oo,  Hangchow,  &c. — Sketching  Confucian  Temple  at 
Bing-oo  —  Crockery  Purchase  —  Sacred  Tortoise  —  Widows'  Monument  —  My 
Friend's  Efforts  to  Photograph— On  to  Kashing — Gramaphone. 

1  GLADLY  accepted  a  friend's  kind  loan  of  his  house- 
boat, and  proceeded  to  make  arrangements  for  an 
excursion  through  some  of  the  waterways  round 
Shanghai.  Another  kindly  friend,  who  was  to  accom- 
pany me  for  the  first  week  or  so,  fitted  up  electric  fans, 
with  accumulators  strong  enough  to  work  for  some  weeks, 
a  very  great  boon  for  the  hot  nights  we  were  now  get- 
ting. The  Scout  was  a  roomy  house-boat.  The  lawdah 
(skipper)  engaged  his  crew  of  six  coolies.  My  boy  agreed 
to  add  to  his  other  duties  that  of  cook,  and  laid  in  many 
stores,  solid  and  liquid ;  the  ice  chest  was  filled  up,  and 
a  further  store  put  under  the  fore-deck,  with  many  bottles 
of  filtered  and  distilled  water— and  we  were  ready. 

A  beautiful  evening  at  the  end  of  May  saw  us  all  on 
board,  and  my  relatives  waving  adieus  from  the  Boat 
Club  platform,  as  we  moved  slowly  out  of  the  Soochow 
Creek.     Then  we  fastened  on  to  a  train  of  native  boats, 

behind    a    steam    launch,    and    away    we    went    up    the 

59 


CHINA:   ITS    MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Whangpo  on  our  journey.  There  was  a  call  to  the  boy 
for  tea,  and  after  this  my  friend  and  I  sat  on  the  deck, 
watching  the  landscape  as  we  moved  along  in  the  quiet 
evening  hours.  We  met  many  craft  on  this  busy  water- 
way, all  going  to  and  fro  from  the  great  centre  of  com- 
merce with  their  loads  of  exports  or  imports.  The  extent 
of  the  imports  the  traveller  soon  gathers  as  he  goes  along ; 
and  even  in  small  villages  one  sees  bills  in  Chinese 
characters  advertising  So-and-so's  cigarettes — in  which 
I  believe  there  is  enormous  trade — or  somebody  else's 
cocoa,  or  soap,  or  sewing-machines.  One  need  not  read 
the  statistics  to  realise  the  importance  of  the  catering  for 
this  teeming  population  of  thrifty  people.  Thrifty  they 
are  in  all  ways  :  nothing  is  wasted.  On  the  native  boats 
to  which  we  were  attached  there  seemed  to  be  crowds  of 
passengers,  some  lying  about  smoking,  some  preparing  their 
evening  meal,  and  some  gambling :  never  can  you  see 
a  large  number  of  Chinese  together  without  gambling. 
It  is  the  spirit  of  the  dealer,  the  longing  for  hazard, 
which  is  inherent  in  this  people. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  reached,  and  anchored  at, 
Bing-oo,  a  quaint  and  purely  Chinese  small  town,  walled 
in,  of  course,  as  all  Chinese  towns  are.  Here  I  soon 
found  subjects  for  my  brush,  chief  being  the  Temple  of 
Confucius  near  by  the  water  gate.  The  only  place  from 
which  I  could  see  my  subject,  and  could  hope  to  get  peace 

to  work,  was  a  small  projecting  piece  of  land  against  the 

60 


THE  TEMPLE  AT  BING-OO  :  WATER  GATE 
AND    CITY   WALL 


HANGCHOW 

Creek,  and  surrounded  partly  by  buildings.  By  judicious 
"  palm  oil "  I  got  possession  of  this,  and  after  my  coolies 
had  cleared  it  I  got  to  work.  But  oh  the  crowds ! 
Hundreds  came  —  I  could  see  them  streaming  across 
the  bridge  lower  down,  and  making  their  way  round ; 
and  when  they  found  they  couldn't  get  close  to  me, 
they  crowded  on  to  my  foreground  opposite  me  and 
practically  blocked  out  my  subject. 

Then  my  lawdah  came  in  ;  he  procured  a  rope,  and 
stretching  it  from  a  wall  near  me,  right  across  for  30 
or  40  yards,  made  all  the  people  get  outside  it,  and,  by 
stationing  coolies  along,  kept  the  crowd  there.  Each 
day  when  finishing  work  I  turned  my  picture  round  for 
them  to  look  at — an  act  which,  I  was  told,  was  much 
appreciated. 

Near  by  me,  beside  the  Temple,  there  was  a  large 
tank  surrounded  by  a  fine  stone  balustrade,  and  con- 
taining a  very  large  sacred  tortoise ;  we  threw  food  in, 
and  he  graciously  came  to  the  surface  and  exhibited  his 
length  to  us — about  3|  feet. 

I  had  to  purchase  some  crockery  for  use  on  the  boat 

in   this   town ;   and   after   much   bargaining,    in   which  it 

appeared   to   me  half  the  population   of  the   street   took 

part,  as  they  crowded  into  the  shop  and  round  the  door, 

I  bought  for  little  over  a  Mexican  dollar  various  dishes 

of  nice  china,  of  quaint  and  artistic  design  and  colour. 

The   same   number  of  dishes   at   home  would   have  cost 

61 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

me  five  times  as  much,  and  not  been  nearly  so  pretty. 
I  found,  however,  my  boy  was  not  overpleased,  as  he 
seemed  to  think  that  things  of  European  character  would 
be  more  suitable  for  my  use ;  but  his  only  remark  to 
me  was,  as  he  pointed  to  the  articles,  "  All  same  Chinee, 
no  b'long  foleign  man." 

In  this  neighbourhood  I  saw  good  specimens  in  stone 
of  what  are  known  as  Widows'  Monuments.  They  are 
erected  by  the  relatives  to  the  memory  of  the  widow 
who  has  remained  faithful  to  her  husband  ;  and  some 
are  very  beautiful  —  great  blocks  of  stone  set  up,  and 
the  horizontal  pieces  put  in  with  tenons,  as  we  would 
do  with  woodwork. 

My  friend  was  a  keen  photographer  and  great  on 
finding  "good  views,"  and  walking  by  the  water  one  day 
he  said  excitedly,  "Ah,  now  I  see  where  to  get  that 
pagoda  from,"  and  excitedly  jumped  on  to  what  seemed 
like  a  piece  of  land  jutting  out  into  the  water.  Alas  ! 
it  was  not  solid,  and  in  he  went,  up  to  his  knees  in 
slush  dredged  from  the  river  and  laid  there  to  be  used 
as  manure !  After  much  pulling  I  got  him  out,  but  had 
to  desire  him,  when  we  got  into  the  sampan,  to  sit  at 
the  other  end  while  we  crossed  to  our  boat.  A  coolie 
was  then  detailed  to  scrape  and  wash  him  down  till  he 
was  fit  to  come  on  board. 

After  a  few  days  at  Bing-oo  we  up  anchor  and  started 

once  more,  this  time  propelled  by  coolies  using  the  two 
62 


BING-OO:    A   WIDOW'S    MONUMENT 


HANGCHOW 

great  oars,  or  yuloes,  a  slow  but  very  pleasant  means 
of  progress.  Without  event  we  reached  Kashing,  an 
old  town,  once  important,  but  greatly  devastated  in  the 
Taiping  Rebellion  :  large  spaces  within  the  walls  still 
show  nothing  but  ruins. 

Mooring  our  boat  at  the  Custom-house  wharf  we 
were  soon  greeted  by  the  genial  Commissioner,  who 
seemed  rather  surprised  to  find  that  an  artist  should 
have  come  to  that  part  of  the  world  to  sketch.  He 
kindly  volunteered  to  show  us  round,  and  suggested  a 
visit  by  boat  to  a  lake  near.  We  therefore  hired  a 
Chinese  boat  of  less  draught  than  our  own,  and  went 
off  on  it  accompanied  by  Mr.  Commissioner  and  one 
of  his  friends.  The  friend  put  on  board  a  grama- 
phone,  and  as  we  moved  along  the  busy  waterway  he 
set  it  going  with  one  of  those  popular  laughing  songs  ; 
and  never  before  or  since  have  I  seen  Chinese  laugh  so 
much  or  so  heartily.  On  all  sides  they  took  it  up,  and, 
where  they  could,  hurried  along  the  banks  to  keep  near 
us ;  but  gradually  our  speed  lessened,  and  when  we 
called  out  to  the  lawdah  to  go  on,  his  reply  mixed  with 
laughter  was,  "  Master,  my  no  can  yulo,  so  muchee 
laugh."  But  we  reached  the  lake,  a  rather  pretty  stretch 
of  water  with  low  hills  round.  We  visited  a  small 
temple  nicely  placed  on  an  eminence  on  the  banks,  and 
amused  the  natives  with  the  gramaphone  once  more. 


CHAPTER   XI 

HANGCHOW  SETTLEMENT 

Arrival  at  Hangchow  Settlement — Mosquitoes — The  West  Lake— Causeways — 
Islands — Lin  Yin  Temples — The  Whistling  Stone. 

4T  Kashing  we  again  got  on  to  a  train  of  boats 
/\  behind  a  steam  launch,  and  started  at  midnight 
±  Y^  to  Hangchow,  the  neighbourhood  of  which  place 
was  the  principal  object  of  this  trip.  Here  we  were 
greeted  by  the  British  Consul,  who  had  been  advised 
of  my  coming  by  my  friends  in  Shanghai.  The  Consul- 
ate stands  by  itself  across  the  Grand  Canal  from  the 
British  Settlement  and  Japanese  Concession.  We  spent 
but  one  night  here,  and  a  lively  one  it  was.  Our  boat 
swarmed  with  the  largest  mosquitoes  I  have  seen, 
strong  and  muscular  too,  judging  by  the  way  they  bit 
me  through  my  clothing.  I  was  glad  when  morning 
came  and  we  moved  off,  to  get  as  near  as  possible  to 
what  I  felt  would  be  my  principal  sketching  ground. 

The  West   Lake  was    originally  little    more  than    a 

morass.      A   past   dynasty,   who   favoured   this    beautiful 

part  of  their  country  by  frequent  residence,  made  of  the 

marsh  a  beautiful  lake,  extending  from  the  west  wall  of 

the  city,  some  miles  along  the  valley.     It  is  crossed  and 
64 


HANGCHOW:    A    BRIDGE    ON   THE  CAUSE- 
WAY,  WEST    LAKE 


HANGCHOW  SETTLEMENT 

divided  up  by  causeways,  and  here  the  character  of  the 
Chinese  is  shown  in  combining  utility  and  beauty. 

These  causeways  are  covered  with  turf,  which  form  a 
fine  galloping  ground,  and  a  narrow  paved  walk  for 
pedestrians.  Many  willow  trees  give  shade  and  add  to 
the  sylvan  beauty,  and  every  here  and  there  one  comes 
to  a  quaint  high-backed  bridge  with  the  ruins  of  an  old 
gateway  on  the  top. 

The  ponies  go  up  and  down  the  steps  of  these  bridges 
as  to  the  manner  born  ;  but  my  friend,  to  whom  riding  was 
a  new  experience,  had  grave  doubts  as  to  whether  he  would 
reach  the  other  side  or  be  thrown  into  the  lake.  Dotted 
about  are  islands,  one  group  in  particular,  joined  together 
by  zigzag  stone  bridges,  with  pavilions,  tea-houses,  and 
temples  which  are  at  once  memorial  to  some  dead  notable, 
and  a  pleasant  resort  to-day. 

The  lake  stretches  far  along,  and  the  hills  rise  higher 
on  either  side,  and  now  and  then  a  ruined  pagoda  is  seen, 
relics  of  the  time  when  the  Chinese  got  their  pleasure  by 
ascending  those  high  places,  and  enjoying  a  bird's-eye  view 
of  the  country  round.  Their  pictures  of  both  past  and 
present  are  drawn  as  from  some  such  place.  An  old 
Chinese  proverb  says  : — 

"There  is  Heaven  above 

And  Soochow  and  Hangchow  below," 

and  I  felt  the  truth  of  this  when  I  saw  the  beauty  spread 
out  before  me. 

E  65 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

The  lake  scenery  is  quite  different  from  anything  which 
we  have  at  home.  Gaily  painted  pleasure-boats  move  slowly 
across  the  water,  causing  a  gentle  ripple  on  its  calm  and 
peaceful  surface. 

Let  me  take  my  readers  past  the  beds  of  lotus,  with 
their  lovely  pink  flowers ;  let  us  sail  under  the  bridges,  to 
the  opposite  side  to  the  beautiful  pailau  in  front  of  the 
Imperial  Library,  with  its  red-coloured  walls  ;  let  us  enter 
this  place  of  seclusion,  and  look  at  the  fine  building  with 
its  many  thousands  of  books,  which  now  stands  where  was 
once  an  imperial  palace.  On  past  the  Red  Pagoda,  now 
in  ruins,  to  the  head  of  the  lake.  Let  us  wander  for  a  few 
miles  to  the  Lin  Yin  Temples,  where  we  shall  find  archi- 
tecture not  to  be  surpassed  anywhere.  Here  we  may  see 
a  small  stone  pagoda,  which  seems  as  though  it  were  the 
model  for  a  larger  building,  and,  farther  on,  large  pillars 
the  sole  relics  of  a  once  stately  entrance  to  noble  temples. 
Even  the  remaining  temples,  though  but  a  fragment  of 
what  existed  here,  are  fine  examples,  and  contain  some 
good  bronze  incense-burners,  &c.,  and  a  few  fine  porcelain 
jars.  Let  us  follow  the  stream  up  the  valley  to  the  Cave 
Temples,  with  their  gods  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock.  A 
weird  place !  The  priest,  who  seems  to  be  in  charge, 
must  have  rather  cold  quarters  if  he  sleeps  here,  for 
these,  I  should  think,  are  partly  natural  caves,  and  are 
very  much  enlarged  by  human  work ;  but,  like  other  caves, 

they  are  damp  and  dark  and  dismal.     The  priest,  however, 
66 


HANGCHOW:    PAILAU    AT  THE    IMPERIAL 

LIBRARY 


HANGCHOW  SETTLEMENT 

seemed  cheerful  enough  as  he  offered  to  sell  us  joss- 
sticks. 

From  this  place  we  went  on  to  the  Whistling  Stone, 
and  my  friends  tried  hard,  blowing  at  the  two  holes,  but 
were  unable  to  produce  the  whistle  from  which  the  stone 
takes  its  name.  I  preferred  looking  on,  and  keeping  my 
breath  for  a  better  purpose. 

Words  fail  to  describe  all  the  beautiful  scenes  in  this 
part  of  China, 


67 


CHAPTER    XII 

HANGCHOW  CITY 

North  Gate — Dr.  Main's  Medical  Mission  and  his  Pagoda — Ride  through  the  Hills — 
Purchase  of  old  Stone  Lions — Excitement  among  Coolies — I  am  Robbed  of 
my  Silver — Night — Fireflies,  Beetles,  Frogs — I  Paint  a  Water-Buffalo. 

THE  city  of  Hangchow  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
and  also  one  of  the  most  prosperous  in  the 
south  of  China.  At  one  time  the  capital,  it 
still  retains  its  importance,  both  commercially  and 
politically.  The  streets  are  good,  and  a  little  broader 
than  at  Canton  or  Shanghai,  and  the  shops  are  fine. 
One  shop  is  noted  for  fans ;  and  here  I  bought  a  fan  on 
which  is  depicted  a  view  of  the  West  Lake  and  moun- 
tains as  seen  from  the  walls  of  the  city,  of  most  beauti- 
ful and  artistic  design. 

The  North  Gate  of  Hangchow,  the  principal  entrance, 
with  its  carved  roofs,  rising  high  above  the  walls,  is  a 
fine  building.  The  gates  are  closed  at  or  soon  after 
sundown ;  and  if  one  is  shut  out  there  is  no  hope  of 
obtaining  entrance  until  next  morning,  unless,  as  in  my 
case,  one  is  accompanied  by  a  high  official  or  well-known 
person.     In  this  case  a  little  persuasion  and  a  kumshaw 

(tip),  or  gift,  will  induce  the  gatekeeper  to  lower  a  basket 
68 


HANGCHOW  CITY 

from   an   upper  window,  and,  seated  in  this,  the  belated 
traveller  is  hauled  up  and  let  down  on  the  other  side. 

There  is  a  large  mission  station  belonging  to  the 
Church  Missionary  Society,  and  one  of  the  best  foreign 
medical  missions  in  China,  in  charge  of  Dr.  Main,  who 
also  owns  the  hill  by  the  lake  and  a  Pagoda  thereon — 
the  only  instance,  I  believe,  of  a  foreigner  owning  such 
a  building  in  China.  I  lay  no  claim  to  special  know- 
ledge of  the  missionary  work,  medical  or  otherwise,  of 
my  fellow-countrymen  in  China.  I  had  neither  the  time 
nor  the  ability  for  such  an  inquiry,  but  I  feel  that  it 
would  be  unjust  to  overlook  the  work  of  Dr.  Main  as 
head  of  a  hospital  of  250  beds,  a  leper  hospital  of 
27  beds,  a  maternity  training-school,  first-aid  homes 
for  convalescents  and  consumptives,  and,  last  but  not 
least,  the  Medical  College  with  its  fifty  students,  which 
will  have  as  far  reaching  an  influence  on  the  future  of 
China  as  any  of  these  other  agencies. 

In  the  words  of  Lord  William  Cecil,  who  visited  the 

hospital    recently :    "  Dr.    Duncan    Main    has    established 

such  a  position  in  that  city,  that  when  one  walks  round 

the  vast  city  of  Hangchow  with  him,  one  finds  it  hard 

to  believe  that  Europeans  were  ever  unpopular  in  China, 

and    when,  one    enters    his    leper    refuge,    and    sees   the 

happy    smiles    of    welcome    on    the    faces    of   the    poor 

sufferers,   one  understands  the   reason  for  his  popularity. 

The  mandarin,  who  was  in  charge  of  the  questions  that 

E  2  69 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

concern  foreigners  in  this  province,  told  us  that  there 
was  no  friction  in  that  city  with  Protestant  Missions, 
which  I  suggest  is  owing  to  Dr.  Main's  influence."  I 
must  add  that  the  writer  was  not  speaking  of  a  member 
of  a  society  for  which  he  holds  a  special  brief. 

On  one  of  our  rides  up  through  the  hills,  stopping 
for  a  rest  at  a  small  temple,  I  came  on  some  old 
carved  stone  lions,  which  I  took  a  fancy  to  possess,  and 
with  my  friend's  help  entered  into  negotiations  with  the 
chief  priest  for  their  purchase.  What  a  haggling  and 
bargaining  there  was !  But  at  last  I  became  the  pur- 
chaser and  paid  a  deposit,  it  being  arranged  that  my 
friend  would  come  back  next  day,  bring  coolies  for  their 
removal,  and  pay  for  them.  I  was  at  first  doubtful  how 
these  large  and  heavy  stones  could  be  got  over  these 
hills,  with  no  roads,  only  narrow  paths  ;  but  my  friend 
said  it  was  easy  enough,  and,  as  he  kindly  volunteered 
to  undertake  the  management  of  it,  I  knew  it  would  be 
done.  So  next  morning  he,  with  the  lawdah  and  three 
coolies  from  the  boat,  left  for  the  hills,  and  on  their 
way  engaged  carrying  coolies.  I  went  off  as  usual  in 
my  sampan  up  the  creek,  then  overland  to  the  West 
Lake,  having  with  me  only  two  coolies,  and  leaving  the 
houseboat  in  charge  of  my  own  boy  and  one  coolie.  I 
had  a  long  and  very  good  day's  work,  and  was  glad 
when  evening  came   to  get  into  my  sampan,  which  was 

brought  for  me  each  evening  to  the  head  of  the  Creek, 
70 


HANGCHOW  CITY 

for  the  return  home ;  but  I  noticed,  though  I  could  not 

understand  why,  that  the  coolie  who  had  charge  of  the 

boat  was   talking  very   much.      They  all   seemed   rather 

excited  ;  and,  when  we  reached  the  houseboat,  there  was 

more  chatter   and    talk    aft.      I   had   hardly  got    aboard 

when   I   thought  I   could  hear  my  friend  returning,  so  I 

went  ashore  to  meet  him,  and  told  him  I  was  sure  there 

was  something  up.     The  lawdah  soon  settled  this.     He 

came  and  reported,  "  One  coolie  have  walkee."     We  went 

aboard   at   once,  and,  entering  the  cabin,  saw   there   was 

some    trouble :    both    hasps    of    the    locks    of    my   cabin 

trunk  were  broken,  and  on  opening  it  I  found  that  all 

my  silver  dollars  were  gone ! 

It  turned  out  that  my  boy,  left  on  the  boat  with  one 

coolie  and  knowing  us  to  be  away  for  the  day,   thought 

he  would  have  a  holiday,  and  so  took  himself  off.     The 

coolie   left :    unaccustomed   to   so   much    responsibility,    I 

suppose,  he  felt  lonely,  and  to  break  the  monotony  smashed 

open  my  trunk,  and  departed  with  the  silver.     Only  my 

note-case  covered  by  some  socks,  with  a  string  of  coppers, 

lay   untouched.      This   at  once  explained   the  excitement 

among   the    coolies.      According  to   Chinese   custom    the 

lawdah,  who  engaged  the  coolies,  was   responsible  to  me 

for  their  honesty  and  good   behaviour ;    and   he  was,  of 

course,   in  a  great   state,  and   declared   he  i should  go  at 

once  in  pursuit  of  the  thief     It  was    necessary  that  we 

should    inform    the    Consul    and    police    at    Hangchow 

71 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Settlement,  and  we  determined  to  ride  in,  that  night,  after 
having  some  food.  When  ready  to  start  we  noticed  a 
distinct  quietness,  and  found  that  the  lawdah  and  all  the 
remaining  crew  had  gone  off  on  the  hunt.  This  meant 
that  we  could  not  both  go,  so  my  friend  volunteered,  and 
I  remained  on  the  boat,  my  boy,  the  cause  of  all  this 
trouble,  being  my  sole  companion.  Because  there  had 
been  a  good  deal  of  trouble  recently  in  this  district  with 
salt-smugglers  and  the  like,  and  not  knowing  if  the 
thief  might  be  in  league  with  others,  my  friend  insisted 
that  our  guns  should  be  loaded,  and  said,  if  he  saw  the 
coolies,  he  would  tell  them  to  shout  before  coming  on 
board,  as  I  was  going  to  fire  on  any  one  who  came  on 
without  warning. 

My  friend,  by  the  way,  could  not  ride  till  two  days 
before  this,  but  having  done  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
miles  each  day,  now  felt  quite  equal  to  anything  on 
horseback.  It  was  a  case  of  "needs  must,"  which,  after 
all,  generally  finds  an  Englishman  ready. 

How  peaceful  and  calm  it  all  seemed  when  they  had 

gone.     The  night  not  moonlight,  but  yet  not  dark,  with 

twinkling  stars  overhead,  how  quiet  and   serene   it   was  1 

My  thoughts  were  with  my  work,  and  the  anxiety  to  be 

fit  for  it  next  day  worried  me  far  more  than  the  wretched 

theft  of  my  dollars.     I  lay  in  my  chair  on  the  deck,  in 

the  warm  night  air,  thinking  of  all  the  quiet  beauty.     The 

fireflies  buzzed  round,  the  great  flying-beetles  were  trying 
72 


WATER-BUFFALO   AT    WORK    IN    THE 
PADDY-FIELDS 


HANGCHOW  CITY 

to  get  in  at  my  curtained  windows  to  the  light.  Mos- 
quitoes came  at  me  with  a  hum.  In  a  swamp  near  by 
the  frogs  croaked  intermittently.  The  bull-frog  would 
start  the  concert  with  his  deep  croak ;  another  and  another 
would  join  in,  until  the  air  was  full  of  their  noise.  Then 
it  would  all  stop  just  as  suddenly,  and  for  a  few  moments 
peace  reigned.  Then  the  scissor -grinders  would  start 
their  shrill  note.  No  lack  of  life  here.  By-and-by  I 
turned  in,  and,  amidst  this  peaceful  noise,  went  to  sleep. 
But  in  the  small  hours  I  was  roused  by  loud  shouting. 
I  lay  for  some  moments  to  collect  my  thoughts,  then 
remembered  that  this  would  be  my  coolies.  They  had 
returned  to  rest  while  others  continued  the  search.  Early 
morning  brought  in  the  others,  and  a  note  from  my 
friend  to  the  effect  that  the  Consul  and  the  police  were 
coming  out  to  see  me  that  day.  I  groaned  as  I  thought 
of  my  work  on  the  lake,  but  had  to  give  in. 

I  went  ashore  for  a  stroll  after  breakfast,  and  not  far 
off  came  on  a  typical  country  scene — water-buffaloes  at 
work  in  the  rice-fields  preparing  the  flooded  land  for  the 
seed.  "  Ah  1  "  I  thought,  "  I  need  not  waste  time,"  and 
determined  to  get  a  drawing  of  this.  Back  to  my  boat 
I  went  for  materials,  and  instructed  the  boy  that,  when 
Consul  gentlemen  came,  he  was  to  bring  them  to  where 
I  was  at  work. 

I  had  some  trouble  in  persuading  the  man  with  the 

buffalo  to   go  on  with  work.      He  wanted   to   stop  and 

73 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY. 

come  and  watch  me ;  but  ultimately  my  coolie  got  him 
to  understand,  and,  when  I  wanted  him  to  stop  -his  steed 
at  a  certain  spot,  a  few  coppers  prevailed.  After  having 
posed  for  me,  he  came  to  see  the  result,  and  was  im- 
mensely amused,  and  soon  gathered  all  the  other  workers 
to  the  spot  to  see  what  this  queer  foreigner  had  done ; 
and  with  this  crowd  round,  the  Consul  found  me,  and  my 
friend  returned  from  his  night  hunt.  We  went  to  the 
boat,  had  tiffin  and  a  discussion  of  the  robbery;  and  in 
discussion  and  talk  it  ended.  I  never  saw  my  coolie  or 
my  silver  dollars  again.  One  result  of  this  robbery  was 
that  I  had  to  send  to  Shanghai  for  some  more  silver, 
which  with  copper  is  the  only  money  recognised  in  the 
country  districts,  notes  being  viewed  with  suspicion  ; 
moreover,  it  was  difficult  to  get  change  for  more  than  a 
dollar  or  two.  For  some  days  I  had  to  borrow  from 
my  boy  and  the  lawdah.  But  such  exciting  incidents 
are  happily  rare,  and  in  this  delightful  spot  I  spent  some 
weeks  and  completed  several  pictures. 


74 


CHAPTER   XIII 

GOOD-BYE  TO  HANGCHOW 

My  Friend  leaves  Me — Bank-Notes — Fan  Shop — Painting  at  the  City  Gate — My 
Coolie  straps  Another — Coffin  on  the  Pathway — Hot  Weather — Night  in 
Hangchow  City — A  Fire — Good-bye  to  Hangchow — On  the  Grand  Canal — 
Return  to  Shanghai. 

A  T  this  time  my  friend  had  to  leave  me  and  return 
/\  to  his  duties  in  Shanghai,  and  with  much  regret 
Jl  V  ^  parted  from  a  cheery  and  resourceful  companion 
and  was  left  in  solitude.  But  within  a  few  days  this 
was  pleasantly  broken  again  by  another  friend  coming 
up  from  Shanghai  for  the  week-end  to  have  a  look  round 
this  lovely  district,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  a  long  day's 
ride  with  him  and  my  friend,  the  Chief  of  Police  and 
Magistrate  from  the  Settlement — a  man  who  knew  all  the 
neighbourhood,  spoke  Chinese,  and  was  a  great  help  to 
me  during  my  stay. 

We  of  course  rode  along  the  causeways  across  the  lake, 
and  away  up  into  the  hills  to  see  the  Lin  Yin  Temples,  and 
finished  by  going  to  the  city  to  allow  my  friend  from 
Shanghai  to  buy  a  fan.  Entering  by  the  West  Gate  I 
suddenly  said  to  him  that  I  hoped  he  had  got  some  money 
with  him.  He  replied  he  had  foreign  notes.  '*  Oh,"  I  said, 
"they  are  no  use  here;   that  bank  is  boycotted,  and  the 

75 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

people  here  don't  like  their  notes."  This  was  quite  true ; 
I  had  great  difficulty  recently  to  get  even  a  small  one 
changed  ;  but  I  was  only  chaffing  him,  because  I  knew  that 
where  we  were  going — the  fan  shop — they  would  take  a 
foreign  note.  But  he,  being  a  high  official  in  the  bank,  was 
quite  disgusted  that  their  notes  should  ever  be  doubted,  let 
alone  refused.  For  a  time,  however,  this  was  so.  The 
foreign  banks  rightly  refused  to  take  notes  on  native 
banks,  which  had  no  reserve  with  which  to  meet  them, 
and  the  native  banks  retaliated  by  boycotting  the  foreign 
bank-notes,  and  inducing  the  native  traders  to  do  so. 

The  fan  shop  was  large  and  seemed  prosperous.  We 
were  told  that  fans  were  sent  from  here  to  all  parts  of  the 
world,  and,  seeing  the  beautiful  work,  I  was  not  surprised. 
All  kinds  of  materials  were  used  for  these  fans,  from  the 
common  paper  with  cheap  cane  handles  and  ribs  to  the 
finest  silk  most  exquisitely  painted  and  mounted  on  carved 
ivory ;  many  of  the  fans,  too,  were  made  of  various  kinds  of 
feathers. 

Our  bargaining  here  was  helped  by  cups  of  green  tea, 
which  the  shopman  handed  round ;  and  this  was  not  un- 
welcome after  a  long  ride  in  the  heat. 

One  of  my  subjects  was  the  North  Gate  of  the  city, 
to  do  which  I  had  about  three  miles  to  walk.  I  doubt 
if  such  a  thing  had  been  seen  here  before  as  a  foreigner 
sitting  on  a  stool  with  an  easel  set  up  and  a  white  umbrella 

over  him,  painting  a  picture  of  the  gateway  ;  and  the  usual 

76 


•  •♦-•••     • 

•  ••'•••• 

••     •     •   •      •     • 


•      ••  •    •  J*  •  • ;.' ' 


HANGCHOW:    THE    NORTH    GATE 


GOOD-BYE  TO   HANGCHOW 

swarms  of  people  came  to  surround  and  watch  me.  My 
lawdah  got  his  rope  out  and  formed  a  triangle  with  it  to 
keep  the  crowd  off,  and  he  and  the  coolies  had  their 
work  cut  out.  The  people  coming  out  of  the  city 
gates  would  make  straight  for  me  and  get  in  my  way, 
so  a  coolie  was  instructed  to  keep  them  off;  and  one 
time,  on  looking  up,  I  was  amused  to  see  that  my  coolie 
had  got  one  of  my  straps  and  with  it  was  deliberately 
smacking  a  man  over  the  head  and  face  to  make  him  get 
out  of  the  way.  I  could  not  help  laughing  even  though  I 
called  out  to  him  to  desist,  but  every  one  laughed — even 
the  man  who  had  been  strapped !  It  was  very  interesting 
to  sit  at  this  gate  and  see  the  various  goings  in  and  out. 
The  beggars  were  here,  of  course,  and  the  small  hawkers 
with  their  trays  of  various  articles  of  food.  Then  would 
come  out  a  small  mandarin  in  his  chair,  followed  by  that  of 
his  wife,  and  preceded  by  his  red  umbrella,  and  then  his 
followers  on  ponies — and  a  rough  and  ragged-looking  lot 
they  were.  He  was  probably  going  to  his  country  house 
and  likely  enough  was  a  rich  man ;  but  I  could  not  help 
comparing  this  gentleman's  departure  from  the  city  to 
his  country  seat,  with  that  of  a  man  of  his  position  and 
means  in  this  country — his  importance  was  estimated  by 
the  number  of  his  followers,  ours  by  the  smart  and  trim 
appearance. 

One   day,   on   our   return  journey   to   the   boat,   the 

lawdah,  thinking  to  take  a  nearer  way,  went  by  a  path 

77 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

through  some  fields  ;  and  leading  the  way  at  one  point, 
looked  back  to  me,  and,  significantly  holding  his  nose, 
turned  off  the  path  to  one  side.  I  followed  him,  and 
with  good  reason.  There  was  a  coffin  laid  right  beside 
the  path,  and  left  there  uncovered  in  the  heat ! ! 

By  this  time — the  middle  of  June — the  heat  was  get- 
ting very  great.  The  thermometer  in  my  cabin  averaged 
94°  and  95°.  The  reader  can  easily  imagine  what  this 
meant  in  the  open  air,  with  only  a  white  sketching  um- 
brella for  shelter.  My  clothing  was  as  simple  as  possible, 
yet  any  clothing  seemed  too  much ;  and  the  nights  were 
perfectly  unendurable  through  mosquitoes,  which  I  did  my 
best  to  exclude  by  covering  the  windows  of  my  cabin  with 
netting.  At  night  one  felt  the  benefit  of  the  electric  fan, 
which  served  to  make  a  little  breeze ;  but  even  this  failed 
me  at  last,  and  I  had  a  bad  time.  By  day  there  was  a 
little  breeze,  but  at  night  it  usually  died  away. 

The  advance  of  civilisation,  as  Western  people  under- 
stand it,  may  be  guessed  when  I  say  that  during  my  stay 
in  this  district  I  had  a  large  box  of  ice  three  times  a  week 
from  Shanghai — 150  miles — sent  by  steam-launch,  landed 
at  the  Custom-House,  there  put  in  a  small  boat  and  sent 
on  to  me.  And  what  a  boon  it  was !  It  meant  that  I 
could  always  have  a  cool  drink,  and  that  my  food  was 
kept  fit  to  eat.  I  have  the  care  of  my  friends  in  Shanghai 
to  thank  for  that  comfort. 

My    last    night   in    this  delightful    neighbourhood    I 

78 


GOOD-BYE   TO   HANGCHOW 

spent  in  the  house  of  a  friend  at  Hangchow,  where  I 
arranged  that  my  boat  should  wait  for  me  at  the  Custom- 
House  Quay,  and  so  save  the  tedious  journey  down  small 
creeks  to  the  Grand  Canal. 

Entering  the  gate  of  the  city  at  dusk,  we  still  had 
a  considerable  distance  to  go  before  reaching  my  host's 
hospitable  dwelling.  Before  our  journey's  end  it  was 
quite  dark.  In  front  of  our  chairs  ran  a  coolie  with  a 
paper  lantern,  which  was  necessary  in  the  dark  streets. 
All  the  shops  were  shut,  as  the  people  retire  to  bed 
very  early,  artificial  light  being  dear  and  dangerous. 
Our  bearers  swung  along  through  the  dark  shadows, 
and,  so  far  as  my  knowledge  of  the  way  went,  they 
might  have  taken  me  anywhere ;  but,  with  the  faith  I 
always  had  in  the  Chinaman,  I  felt  as  secure  as  in  the 
streets  of  London.  It  was  a  weird  experience,  and  more 
like  a  journey  through  a  city  of  the  dead  than  of  the 
living,  until  at  last  we  turned  into  the  courtyard  of  my 
friend's  house. 

In  the  morning  I  bade  adieu  to  my  hospitable  friend, 

and  went  off  by  chair  to  meet  my  boat  at  the  Custom- 

House,  which  is  on  the  British  Settlement  by  the  Grand 

Canal  four  miles  away.     Leaving  the  city  gate  I  found 

that,  as  is  usual  in  the  prosperous  Chinese  cities,  the  space 

within  the  walls  had  in  recent  times   proved  too  small, 

and  that  the  city  extended  far  outside,  reaching  in  this 

direction   to   the  canal.      Busy   streets   they  were  which 

79 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

I  passed  through.     I   found  that  I   could   not   leave   till 

night,  so   I  spent   the   day  wandering  about   the   native 

street  built  on  the  British  Settlement  and  under  British 

rule.     I  was  with   my  friend,  the  Chief  of  Police,  when 

we  spied  some  smoke  issuing  from  a  corner  house  near 

by.     A  crowd   was  gathering,  and   it  was   obvious   that 

there  was  a  fire.     My  friend  was  quickly  off  across  the 

street,  and  was  able  with  a  few  buckets  of  water  to  stop 

what  would  have  been  a  serious  fire.     There  was  a  strong 

wind   blowing,  and   those   slightly  built   houses,  with   so 

much   timber,  would   have   burnt  like   a   matchbox.     He 

said  when  he  reached  an  upper  room  he  found  the  place 

full  of  smoke,   and   at   one  side   a   native  woman  doing 

joss.     She   it  was  who,  with  her   lighted  joss-stick,  had 

set  fire   to   some   paper  round   the   image,  and  was  now 

praying  to  the  fire  god  to  put  it  out.     The  fire  god  came 

in   the  form  of  a  big  burly  Britisher,  with  a  bucket  of 

water,  who  very  quickly  put  out  both  her  and  the  fire. 

Towards   night   the    train   of    boats   was   formed   and 

mine  was  tied  on,  and,  with  adieus  to  my  kind  friends, 

I    reluctantly   said  good-bye    to   Hangchow.     The   direct 

route  by  water  from  Hangchow  to  Shanghai  is  interesting, 

the  country  being  flat,  very  fertile  and  highly  cultivated. 

On  the  Grand  Canal  one  may  see  the  great  care  lavished 

in   by-gone   years   on    the   most   important  of  the    great 

water   thoroughfares    of  China,  now  so   much   neglected, 

the  fine  stone  walls,  or  bunds,  of  the  canal  being  sadly 
80 


GOOD-BYE   TO   HANGCHOW 

broken  away  and  the  parapets  of  the  bridges  gone.  One 
wonders  if  the  Chinese  will  ever  wake  up  to  the  fact 
that  they  must  save  their  fine  canals,  if  cheap  transit 
by  water  is  to  be  preserved.  At  the  moment  railways 
are  the  chief  object  of  their  ambition ;  but,  great  as  the 
advantage  of  these  would  be,  China  can  never  afford  to 
lose  the  older  means  of  transit. 

I  was  out  on  deck  soon  after  sunrise  next  morning. 
It  proved  a  beautiful  day — one  of  those  days  which  seem 
to  be  sent  to  us  now  and  again,  just  to  show  us  how 
beautiful  the  world  can  be :  glorious  skies  overhead, 
with  great  masses  of  cumuli-cloud,  gleaming  white,  and 
with  the  blue  of  wonderful  colour  breaking  through — a 
day  on  which  it  was  a  joy  for  a  man  to  be  alive  and 
able  to  see  all  the  beauty  round  him. 

Any  landscape  viewed  under  such  conditions  is  fine, 
and  to  sail  along  this  grand  old  waterway  under  such 
conditions  was  delightful.  The  flat  landscape  was 
streaked  with  brilliant  lights  and  dark  shadows,  and 
there  were  stretches  of  vivid  yellow  and  green  clumps 
of  trees  round  a  temple.  We  were  constantly  meeting 
or  passing  great  tall  square  matting-sailed  junks,  carry- 
ing all  sorts  of  produce.  These  junks  have  a  very  stately 
look  about  them,  and  always  impress  me  with  a  sense 
of  solemnity  as  they  glide  slowly  and  quietly  along,  their 
dark  hulls  and  tall  sails  reflected  in  the  gleamii^g  waters. 

Towards  afternoon  I  could  see  in  the  distance  the  tall 

F  \  81 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Loongwha  Pagoda,  which  told  me  I  was  nearing  the  end 
of  my  journey  and  approaching  Shanghai ;  and  glad 
as  I  was  to  land  there  and  receive  the  welcome  of  my 
friends,  and  enjoy  once  more  their  hospitality,  it  was 
with  regret  that  I  said  good-bye  to  the  houseboat  Scout, 
on  which  I  had  spent  a  most  delightful  time. 


82 


HANGCHOW  :  LOTUS  ISLAND,  WEST  LAKE 
Showing  one  of  several  Pavilions  in  this  pleasure-resort. 


CHAPTER    XIV 

JAPAN 

A  Holiday — Comparisons  with  China. 

I  FOUND  Shanghai,  when  I  returned  at  the  end  of 
June,  sweltering  in  damp  heat.  The  people  looked 
pasty,  limp,  and  tired.  The  energy  of  the  spring 
had  gone,  and,  though  I  had  been  in  great  heat  at 
Hangchow,  my  life  in  the  open  air  kept  me  from  feeling 
it  as  much  as  people  shut  up,  even  in  those  city  offices 
furnished  with  electric  fans  and  all  modern  appliances. 

Clothes  of  the  thinnest  material  were  of  course  in  use. 
The  evening  walk  or  drive  to  the  Bubbling  Well  Road 
was  the  only  chance  of  coolness,  and  this  was  very  slow. 
Most  people  were  talking  of  where  they  would  go 
out  of  the  heat,  and  nowadays  they  have  a  great 
choice  without  leaving  China.  Wei-hai-wei  takes  many, 
Cheefoo  is  an  old  favourite  resort,  and  Pei-tai-ho  a  new 
one.  Many  go  inland  to  the  hills,  others  seek  greater 
change  in  Japan ;  and  as  I  was  told  I  would  find  it  too 
hot  to  work  out  of  doors  in  Northern  China,  I  deter- 
mined to  have  a  short  spell  in  Japan. 

My  relatives  were  going  north  to  Pei-tai-ho,  and  invited 

me  to  join  them  there  later  on.      So  to  Little  Nippon  I 

83 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

set  sail,^  arriving,  after  a  pleasant  and  uneventful 
passage,  in  Nagasaki,  the  first  port  of  call. 

The  entrance  and  appearance  of  this  port,  as  indeed 
of  all  Japan,  reminded  me  most  of  Scotland,  particu- 
larly of  the  west  coast.  Wooded  hills  run  down  to 
the  water's  edge,  the  harbour  being  a  natural  inlet  in  the 
hills. 

Like  all  Japanese  towns,  Nagasaki  is  largely  built  of 
wood,  the  houses  small  and  rather  cheap  looking.  The 
people  are  distinctly  cleaner  in  appearance  than  the 
Chinese,  and  very  distinctly  Westernised.  True,  the 
national  costume  is  there  still,  but  it  is  only  worn  by  the 
coolie  classes.  The  better-class  Jap  dresses  in  European 
clothes,  and  is  no  end  of  a  swell.  The  natural  result  is 
a  loss  of  picturesqueness  and  distinction. 

The  shops  are  very  interesting,  and  there  is  plenty  to 

amuse   the  visitor.     Our   ship   only   made   a  short  stay, 

and  I  and  a  few  other  passengers  employed  the  time  in 

a   stroll   through  the  town,  and  a  very  pleasant  ricksha 

ride  to  the  small  fishing-village  of  Mogi,   a  pretty  little 

place  on  the  other  side  of  the  peninsula  from  Nagasaki. 

One  great   difference   between   Japan   and   China   is   the 

good  roads  almost  everywhere  in  the  former,  roads  that 

seem  well  engineered.      The  road  we  took  wound  about 

up  the   hillside  and   through   a  narrow  gully  and  tunnel 

at   the   top,   and   then   on   down,  passing   rice-fields   laid 

out  in   terraces  one  below  the  other,  and  irrigated  by  a 
84 


JAPAN 

cunningly  diverted  stream  rising  above  and  carried  from 
terrace  to  terrace. 

Mogi  was  a  great  contrast  to  some  of  the  Chinese 
villages  I  had  recently  visited.  Its  cleanliness  was  obvious 
as  the  dirt  of  the  other  was  more  than  obvious,  but  this 
very  cleanliness  and  tidiness  made  it  less  picturesque  to 
the  artist,  if  more  pleasant  to  the  visitor. 

Nagasaki  is  one  of  the  ports  where  an  artist  for  some 
obscure  reason  is  not  allowed  to  sketch  without  permis- 
sion. I  suppose,  in  spite  of  their  training,  the  people 
cannot  yet  understand  the  difference  between  an  artist 
who  wishes  to  make  pictures  and  an  engineer  who  might 
draw  some  of  their  fortifications ;  yet  you  can  go  into 
any  little  shop  and  buy  dozens  of  postcards,  with  views 
of  all  the  places  and  many  of  the  forts,  &c. 

From  Nagasaki  we  very  soon  got  into   the  far-famed 

Inland    Sea.       The   weather  was   perfect,  the   ship  Toyo 

Kishen    Kaisha   SS.    America   Mam   comfortable,    and 

my  fellow-passengers  very  good   company.     This  part   of 

the    voyage   was   altogether   delightful.      The   calm   sea, 

with    hills     in     view   all    the    time,    and    ever-changing 

colours,  lights  and  shadows,  was  beautiful.     I  thought  of 

the  times  when  I  sailed  up  the  Kyles  of  Bute  and  other 

West  of  Scotland  seas.     There  is  a  great  similarity,  but 

the  Japanese   hills   are   less   wooded,    and   of  course   the 

craft   one   sees   is   different — the  fishing-boats,  with  their 

big  white  sails  and   light-coloured,   unpainted  woodwork, 

F  2  85 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

with  the  almost  naked  bodies  of  the  fishermen  gleaming 
in  the  sun.  Certainly  the  Inland  Sea  of  Japan  deserves 
all  that  has  been  said  in  praise  of  it. 

Our  next  port  of  call  was  Kobe,  where  we  arrived  at 
evening  and  saw  a  most  beautiful  sunset,  with  the  town 
and  hills  dark  against  it,  and  the  water  glowing  with  the 
reflected  glory  of  the  sky.  A  busy  harbour  it  is.  I 
spent  a  few  pleasant  hours  on  shore  next  day  meeting 
some  friends  and  looking  through  curio-shops,  where  the 
wily  dealer  provides  newly  made  old  curios  for  the 
unwary  traveller ;  but,  after  all,  these  new  things  are  very 
cunningly  fashioned  and  very  beautiful,  and,  as  they  are 
not  expensive,  I  am  not  sure  the  buyer  suffers  much. 

The  town  is  more  modern  and  Western-looking  than 
Nagasaki ;  it  has  wide  open  streets  and  large  buildings 
with  fine  hotels. 

Soon  after  leaving  Kobe  we  got  into  the  open  sea, 
but  kept  land  in  sight  nearly  all  the  way.  We  were  to 
call  and  ship  a  quantity  of  tea  at  a  small  port  called 
Shimuzi,  which  is  rapidly  becoming  the  tea-shipping 
place,  as  it  is  near  the  tea-growing  district.  Kobe  and 
Yokohama  will  be  hard  pressed  to  retain  the  trade.  We 
were  not  allowed  to  land  at  this  place. 

Early  next  morning  I  was  on  deck  just  in  time  to 
get  a  sight — the  only  one  I  did  get — of  Fujiyama,  that 
flat-topped,  snow-capped  sacred  mountain ;  and  most  im- 
pressive it  was.  Would  that  I  could  have  seen  more  of 
86 


JAPAN 

it !  but  weather  decreed  otherwise ;  mist  enveloped  it  and 
it  was  gone. 

At  Yokohama  I  left  the  America  Mam  for  land. 
Here,  again,  at  any  rate  near  the  harbour,  the  town  is 
distinctly  European  in  size  and  style  of  building.  It  has 
good,  well-made  roads  with  electric  tramcars  in  every 
direction.  But  when  he  goes  behind  all  this  the  visitor 
finds  the  native  style  of  house,  built  mostly  of  wood. 
Here  I  saw  what  I  should  imagine  was  true  Japanese 
appearance  of  the  streets,  with  plenty  of  florid  signs  and 
flags  hanging  out.  Most  of  the  people  were  in  gay 
native  costume,  stumping  about  on  their  high  wooden 
shoes.  In  this  neighbourhood  I  thought  I  discovered  a 
reason,  beyond  possibly  the  wish  to  increase  their  height, 
for  their  being  set  up  on  those  pieces  of  wood ;  I  looked 
down  a  side  street  and  it  was  inches  deep  in  mud.  The 
main  streets  were  good  and  well  laid  with  macadam. 

From  Yokohama  I  went  by  rail  via  Tokio  to  Nikko, 

famed   as   one   of    the   most    beautiful    spots    in    Japan. 

Here  are  many  famous  temples  with  equally  gorgeously 

decorated    exteriors    and    interiors.       In    form    they  are 

somewhat  similar  to  the  Chinese.      The  roofs  are  much 

decorated    with    gilded    ornament,   and    altogether    more 

ornate  than  the  Chinese,  and,  at  Nikko  at  any  rate,  they 

are  kept  in  better  order ;  the  red  lacquer  is  as  fresh  on 

the  posts   and   windows   as   if  put  on   yesterday.       The 

interiors  are  very  different  from  the  Chinese,  which  are 

87 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

generally  rather  dull  and  dirty  looking,  with  little  orna- 
ment. The  Japanese  seem  to  lavish  all  their  skill  on  the 
fine  carving,  inlaying,  and  decorating  of  the  interiors. 
To  enter  them  one  has  to  leave  one's  boots  outside  and 
put  on  straw  slippers,  kept  for  that  purpose. 

They  are  all  very  pretty  and  interesting,  but  they 
failed  to  impress  me  as  the  Chinese  temples  did. 

The  scenery  at  Nikko  is  fine,  and  in  some  respects 
like  Scottish  or  Welsh  hill  country.  The  rushing, 
tumbling  river  might  easily  be  one  of  our  home  streams. 
I  made  a  delightful  excursion  by  ricksha  to  Chuzenzi, 
which,  with  its  fine  lake  and  mountain  scenery,  is  an 
ideal  place  for  a  foreigner  from  China  to  recruit  in. 
Hotels  with  the  latest  comforts  abound. 

The  road  to  Chuzenzi  winds  away  up  by  the  river, 
in  places  rising  high  above,  with,  at  one  point,  a  view 
of  a  very  fine  and  high  waterfall ;  it  pierces  deep  wood- 
lands and  is  altogether  delightful.  It  is  only  because  you 
are  in  a  ricksha,  pulled  and  pushed  by  slightly  clothed 
coolies  wearing  wide  umbrella-like  hats,  that  you  realise 
you  are  not  at  home. 

At    Nikko   is   the  world-famous    Cryptomaria    Road, 

extending   for   miles   and    miles.     I    doubt   if  it   has   an 

equal  in  the  world.     It  is  said  to  be  over  three  hundred 

years  old,  and  I  was  told   the  tale  of  how  these  grand 

old  trees  came  to  be  there. 

At  a  time   when    wealthy   nobles   were   contributing, 
88 


JAPAN 

each  according  to  his  means,  to  make  this  road  to  the 
sacred  temples  at  Nikko,  one  noble  who  had  not  much 
money  said  that  instead  of  money  he  would  give  in 
kind,  and  undertook  to  plant  the  new  road  on  either 
side  with  cryptomaria  trees.  This  was  done ;  and  to 
this  day  the  trees  remain  to  beautify  this  roadway,  and 
give  joy  and  shelter  to  those  who  travel  on  it. 

They  are  glorious  stately  trees,  and  gaps  here  and 
there  only  make  the  scene  more  picturesque.  I  consider 
that  these  trees  are  amongst  the  most  beautiful  in 
Japan. 

Nikko  teems  with  temples  to  various  deities,  one 
rather  like  another,  and  all  very  beautiful. 

My  next  journey  was  to  an  out-of-the-way  little 
fishing-village  called  Katsuura,  to  reach  which  I  went 
through  by  rail  and  beyond  Tokio  and  by  ricksha  some 
hours'  ride,  a  rather  long  and  tedious  journey.  On 
arrival  my  ricksha  men,  without  instructions,  took  me 
to  the  principal  inn — a  purely  native  one,  but  for  clean- 
liness and  attention  not  to  be  surpassed.  No  English 
was  spoken  there,  and,  as  I  spoke  no  Japanese,  the 
situation  was  rather  amusing. 

To  obtain  a  bedroom,   I    put   my  head  on  my  hand 

and  closed  my  eyes ;   that  settled  that  point,  and   I  was 

led  to  a  clean  and  bright  room  on  the  first  floor,  with 

sliding  panels,  wide  open  on  to  a  verandah  from  which 

I  had  a  fine  view  over  the  town  and  shore  away  to  sea. 

89 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

To  signify  that  I  was  hungry,  I  held  my  waistcoat 
out  to  show  that  it  was  slack,  and  very  soon  had  food 
put  before  me,  some  rice,  eggs,  and  tea.  I  found  there 
was  no  bread  and  no  potatoes,  but  they  obtained  some 
small  biscuits  which  served  my  purpose.  While  here 
I  think  I  may  say  I  lived  the  simple  life. 

Sitting  in  my  room  one  evening  I  heard  strains 
of  music,  and,  to  my  astonishment,  the  tune  was  that  of 
*'Auld  Lang  Syne."  Going  on  the  verandah  I  found 
that  the  music  came  from  another  room,  and  the  players 
were  a  young  Jap  playing  the  violin,  and  his  companion, 
a  lady,  playing  the  piano.  I  had  not  expected  to  hear 
the  melody  of  my  native  land  in  this  out-of-the-way 
Japanese  fishing-village. 

Apparently  the  natives  here  were  not  used  to 
foreigners.  My  appearance  outside  at  once  attracted  a 
crowd,  who  followed  me  wherever  I  went ;  when  I  sat 
down  to  sketch  they  proved  almost  more  curious  than 
the  Chinese.  The  policeman  of  the  place  was  apparently 
apprised  of  my  visit,  and  came  to  examine  what  I  was 
doing,  but  seemed  to  find  no  fault  and  let  me  go  on. 

Tokio  is  the  political  capital,  and  is  situated  partly 
on  low  ground  and  partly  on  hills.  The  Sheba  temples, 
and  many  other  beautiful  and  interesting  buildings,  would 
well  repay  a  far  longer  visit  than  I  could  give  them. 

On   my  return   voyage  we  stopped  in  the  Straits   of 

Shimonosaki,  on  one  side  of  which  is  the  town  famous 

90 


JAPAN 

as  the  place  where  the  Treaty  of  Peace  between  China 
and  Japan  was  arranged  by  Li  Hung  Chang  and  Marquis 
Ito.  On  the  other  side  is  Moja.  These  towns  are 
strongly  fortified,  and  all  sketching  or  photography  is 
forbidden  ;  and  when,  tempted  by  a  very  fine  sunset,  I 
got  out  my  colour-box,  it  caused  quite  a  sensation  on 
board.  One  of  the  Japanese  officers  of  the  ship  at  once 
approached  me,  and  said  sketching  was  forbidden.  I 
replied  by  asking  if  they  owned  the  copyright  of  the 
sky,  and  sketched  on.  A  superior  officer  then  came ;  but, 
as  I  was  only  painting  sea  and  sky,  I  refused  to  desist, 
and  completed  my  sketch.  They  were  too  much  puzzled 
to  do  anything.  To  obtain  permission  for  sketching 
takes  so  long  that  often  a  traveller  cannot  get  it  within 
the  time  he  is  staying  at  a  place,  and  the  officials  would 
be  well  advised  to  make  this  an  easier  matter. 


91 


CHAPTER    XV 
PEI-TAI-HO 

Return  from  Japan — My  Boy's  Outfit — We  Sail  for  the  North— Wei-hai-wei — Port 
Arthur — Chinwangtao — The  Umbrella — Arrival  at  Pei-tai-ho — Carts  and 
Donkeys,  Saddles  and  Bridles — "  The  Cruet  " — Bathing — Signs  of  1900 
Troubles — Snipe-Shooting — A  Giant  Willow-Tree — The  Village  Blacksmiths 
— A  Great  Storm  and  Flood — Rock  Temple — The  Country  Round. 

ON  my  return  to  Shanghai  from  Japan  at  the 
I  end  of  July,  I  found  it  still  very  hot  and 
damp,  but  only  spent  a  few  days  preparing 
for  my  departure  north.  When  going  to  Japan  I  left 
my  "  boy "  at  Shanghai  in  charge  of  my  friends.  I 
now  told  him  to  get  what  might  be  necessary  in  the 
way  of  warmer  clothing  for  the  northern  climate  and 
colder  weather  to  come  later,  because  at  that  time  I 
proposed  to  keep  this  "  boy  "  with  me  right  through,  as 
he  knew  my  ways.  I  was  amused  to  see  the  way  he 
fitted  himself  out.  He  was  certainly  a  great  swell  in 
new  clothes — dark  satin  jacket,  white  trousers  with 
embroidery  on  the  ankle  ties,  and  very  grand  shoes — 
black  satin  with  green  edging  above  the  soles  ;  and  last, 
but  not  least,  a  new  umbrella  of  cheap  European  pattern, 
with    a    very    fine    white-metal    handle.      I    was    almost 

afraid  to  give  orders  to  such  a  gorgeous  person. 
92 


PEI-TAI-HO 

We  were  glad,  when  the  day  came  for  us  to  embark 
on  the  China  Engineering  and  Mining  Company's  S.S. 
Kaipiitg,  to  get  away  from  the  heat,  and  the  prospect 
of  a  few  days  at  sea  was  rather  inviting.  In  look- 
ing round  my  cabin  I  found  to  my  amusement  that 
the  "boy"  had  hidden  his  new  umbrella  in  a  corner — 
afraid,  I  suppose,  to  take  it  forward  to  his  own  quarters 
for  fear  a  compatriot  might  annex  it.  We  were  lucky 
enough  to  have  quite  a  fine  passage  up  the  treacherous 
Yellow  Sea,  well  deserving  its  name,  the  water  being 
distinctly  yellow,  thick  and  muddy,  taking,  as  it  does, 
the  great  waters  of  the  Hoang-ho  or  Yellow  River. 

Our  only  call  was  at  Wei-hai-wei,  where  we  landed 
a  few  passengers  for  their  holiday  time.  Wei-hai-wei, 
ostensibly  a  British  naval  station,  is  more  important  as 
a  watering-place  for  foreigners  from  various  parts  of 
China.  It  seems  to  be  pleasant  and  healthy  in  summer, 
but  I  do  not  envy  those  who  are  obliged  to  live  in  such 
an  out-of-the-way  place,  which  in  winter  must  be  bleak 
and  cold. 

Soon  after  leaving  Wei-hai-wei  we  saw  at  some 
distance  the  famous  Port  Arthur,  the  scene  of  such  a 
stern  and  long  siege,  and  many  fierce  battles  between 
the  big  Northerner  and  the  little  Yellow  Man. 

It  was  dull  and  wet  when  we  arrived  at  Chin- 
wangtao  in  the  early  morning.  This  port  is  quite  new, 
and   was  made   by  the  China  Engineering  and   Mining 

93 


CHINA:   ITS    MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Company  to  enable  them  to  ship  their  products  at  all 
times  of  the  year,  Tahu  and  the  Tientsin  River  and 
Newchang  being  closed  up  by  ice  for  many  months. 
Before  the  opening  of  Chinwangtao  and  the  building  of 
the  Imperial  North  China  Railway,  Tientsin  was  almost 
cut  off  from  the  south  during  the  winter,  and  no  goods 
could  be  imported  or  exported ;  now  trade  can  go  on 
uninterruptedly. 

We  had  but  a  short  journey  by  rail  to  our  destina- 
tion, Pei-tai-ho,  and  I  told  my  "boy"  to  look  after  my 
baggage  and  that  of  the  friends  with  whom  I  was 
travelling ;  and  while  watching  this  found  he  was  so 
much  taken  up  with  his  umbrella  that  he  was  neglect- 
ing his  duty.  I  walked  over  to  him,  and  taking  the 
article  said,  "  Now,  boy,  I  look  after  your  umbrella,  you 
look  after  my  baggage."  Oh,  the  anxious  look  he  gave 
me  as  I  moved  off,  and  the  relief  he  showed  when,  all 
being  ready,  he  received  back  his  precious  possession ! 

When  we  reached  Pei-tai-ho  station,  we  found  donkeys 

for  ourselves   and   carts   for  our   baggage.      These   carts 

are    very   heavy,    lumbering  things,   with   clumsy  wheels 

of    solid    wood,    made    in    some    cases    without    spokes ; 

they  are  not  exactly  circular,  though  no  doubt  meant  to 

be   so.      Mules   were  in  the  shafts,  with   a   donkey   tied 

on  at  odd  points  to  help  pull.     We  were  soon  mounted 

and   away  over    the   rather   shaky    bridge    spanning   the 

river,   and   along   the   narrow^  and   rough   track   called   a 
94 


PEI-TAI-HO 

road,   about    three    miles    of   which   had   to    be    covered 

before  we   reached  the   noted   seaside   place.      The   track 

winds  about,  at  times  almost  lost  in  the  fields,  and  we 

were  hidden  by  the  tall  kowliang,  a  cereal  much  grown 

in    this    part.      Up    hill    and    down    dale   we    went,   the 

donkey  coolies    making   much    noise   driving    along    the 

poor-looking  animals,  who  nevertheless   proved  able  and 

sure-footed.      It   is  rather  remarkable  that   when   human 

beings  have  any  difficult  road  to   traverse,  where  almost 

no  other  animal  can  go,  they  at  once  turn  to  the  despised 

donkey,    the    animal   which   to    my   mind    shows   almost 

human  sense  in  its  careful  discrimination  in  picking  out 

its  way.     The  traveller  in  almost  any  country  finds  this ; 

and  even  where  the  donkey  through  its  small  size  is  not 

strong  enough,  it  is  the  mule,  which  joins  to  the  size  of 

the  horse  the  sagacity  and  surefootedness  of  the  donkey, 

that  is  used.     The  saddles  and  bridles  of  the  animals  we 

had  were  quite  worthy  of  study.      The  saddle  was  nothing 

more  than   various  pieces   of  padded   cloth  tied    on  with 

bits  of  raw  hide  and  string.     No  two  stirrups  were  alike : 

one   of  the   pair   I    had   was   of  the   very   large   antique 

description,  suitable  for  a  warrior  of  old ;   the  other  was 

a  modern  stirrup  of  the  size  fit  for  a  child,  so  that  only 

the   toe  of  my  boot   could   rest   on    it,   whereas   on   the 

other   side   I   had    difficulty  to    keep    the   great    iron    in 

its  place.      The  bridle  was   of  rope  and  raw  hide,  with 

no    bit,   the    reins    of   cord    dirty   and    uncomfortable   to 

95 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

hold.  During  my  stay  here  many  miles  did  I  have  to  ride 
on  these  little  animals,  with  such  wretched  accoutrements. 

The  house  my  friends  had  taken  for  the  season  at 
Pei-tai-ho  was  at  what  is  known  as  West  End,  dis- 
tinguishing this  part  from  Rocky  Point,  where  I  believe 
various  missionaries  were  the  first  to  establish  them- 
selves for  the  summer  months.  I  do  not  know  how  to 
describe  the  architecture  of  this  place.  There  is  no  style 
to  which  it  could  be  likened.  Our  house,  which  my 
host  nicknamed  "  The  Cruet,"  had  at  a  little  distance 
a  remarkable  resemblance  to  that  useful  table  requisite ; 
there  were  various  little  domes  coloured  blue,  and  it 
only  wanted  the  handle  on  the  top  to  lift  it  by ;  but 
all  the  same  I  found  it  a  very  comfortable  abode,  with 
a  fine  view  of  the  sea,  and  grand  sands  stretching  away 
round  the  bay.  I  lived  at  "The  Cruet,"  but  slept  at  the 
house  of  another  hospitable  friend,  a  little  farther  west. 

At  Pei-tai-ho  bathing  is  the  great  thing,  and  is  in- 
dulged in  by  all  who  can  manage  it.  The  w^ater  is 
quite  warm,  and  bathers  stay  in  a  much  longer  time 
than  is  usual  at  home. 

It  was  delightful  to  find  the  members  of  our  party, 

who    had     been     here    for    some    weeks,    the    children 

especially,  once  more  looking  brown  and   healthy.      And 

yet   it   was   hot ;   for  a    time  we   had   to   remain   in   the 

verandahs    during    the    midday    hours,    but    as    August 

wore  on  the  weather  became  more  temperate. 
96 


PEI-TAI-HO 

The  Boxers  were  strong  in  these  parts  in  1900,  and 
the  property  of  the  foreigners  suffered  much.  One  sees 
ruined  homesteads,  perhaps  only  a  bit  of  wall  and 
chimney  left  standing ;  but  out  of  evil  came  good,  and,  in 
rebuilding,  the  owners  mostly  have  chosen  better  and  more 
accessible  sites  nearer  to  the  beach ;  and,  as  I  suppose 
the  property  owners  here  (as  elsewhere)  got  some  com- 
pensation, perhaps  the  loss  was  not  very  great.  Judging 
by  the  new  houses  being  built,  and  others  enlarged,  I 
should  suppose  that  Pei-tai-ho  may  look  forward  to  a 
time  of  prosperity.  The  visitors  are  largely  drawn  from 
Tientsin,  which  is  within  easy  reach  by  rail ;  but  Peking 
and  other  places  are  well  represented  by  not  a  few,  who, 
like  ourselves,  took  the  three  days'  voyage  from  Shang- 
hai, in  search  of  fresh  sea  breezes. 

With  cooler  weather  we   took  some  excursions  in  the 

neighbourhood,  I    in   search   of  what   might   provide   me 

with  material    for  sketching.     I  was   invited   one   day  to 

join   some   friends   who  were   going   snipe-shooting,   and 

went  for  the  sake  of  seeing  the  country.     Donkeys  were, 

as  usual,  our  means  of  travel.     We  passed  many  ruined 

buildings.     China   seems    full    of    them,   old    mud    walls 

crumbling  away — signs  of  a  time  when    the   population 

was    greater    than    now.     We    passed    through    several 

villages,   but    none    looked    prosperous,   and    the    people 

were  poor-looking  and    ill-clad.     Even  the  larger  houses, 

such   as   would    belong   to   the   headman   of   the  village, 

G  97 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

seemed  to  have  been  battered  about  and  left  unrepaired. 
The  country  is  hilly  and  rocky,  but  the  valleys  look 
good  and  fairly  well  cultivated,  kowliang  being  the 
principal  crop.  The  roads  were  no  more  than  tracks, 
with  great  deep  ruts  made  by  the  wheels  of  the  carts  in 
use.  The  depth  of  the  ruts  is  determined  by  the  hubs 
of  the  great  wooden  wheels.  In  wet  weather  these  tracks 
become  rushing  streams,  and  in  riding  one  has  to 
exercise  considerable  care,  as  even  donkeys  can  stumble; 
and,  though  they  rarely  hurt  themselves,  the  rider  may 
get  an  awkward  fall  into  mud  or  dust. 

On  this  ride  we  had  to  ford  several  small  streams, 
and  one  large  river  at  which  some  of  us  looked  askance ; 
but  our  leader  plunged  boldly  in,  and  the  water  was 
soon  up  to  his  saddle.  We  others  followed  more  gin- 
gerly. I  for  one  put  my  legs  over  the  donkey's  neck, 
and  just  missed  a  wetting.  At  last  the  ground  was 
reached  where  snipe  might  be  expected,  and  a  few 
coolies  proceeded  to  beat  it  out  —  low-lying,  swampy 
ground,  full  of  reeds  and  rushes ;  but  into  it,  often 
up  to  their  middles,  went  the  coolies,  the  guns  follow- 
ing up. 

I    understood    then    why   our    leader    did    not    mind 

getting  wet  crossing  the  river.     He  knew  he  had   to  do 

so    in   going   after    the   snipe.     I   was    not    shooting,    so 

remained  on  dry  land.     The  guns  did   better  than  when 

at  the  Tahu,  and  a  few  birds  were  bagged. 
98 


PEI-TAI-HO 

My  friend  had  told  me  he  would  show  me  some- 
thing fine  in  the  way  of  trees  on  this  trip ;  and  certainly 
he  did.  In  a  small  village  of  little  more  than  mud 
huts,  almost  hiding  a  small  temple,  there  was  an  enor- 
mous willow  tree,  and,  to  make  the  picture  more 
complete,  underneath,  some  itinerant  blacksmiths  were 
at  work  at  a  forge,  hammering  red-hot  iron — quite  in  the 
manner  we  are  accustomed  to  think  of,  but  rarely  see 
at  home,  when  the  well-known  lines  come  to  mind, 
''  Under  a  spreading  chestnut  tree." 

To  one  side  stood  the  wheelbarrow  which  carried 
the  stock-in-trade,  a  whole  outfit  for  their  work,  rods, 
iron,  bellows,  forge,  &:c.,  and  probably  some  of  the 
younger  members  of  his  family.  In  a  country  where 
there  are  almost  no  roads  a  vehicle  such  as  this,  with 
only  one  large  wheel,  must,  of  course,  be  best.  With  it 
the  people  can  drive  along  the  merest  track  through 
fields  or  over  hills.  I  felt  that  such  a  subject  as  this, 
showing  a  phase  of  purely  rural  life  in  China,  must  not 
be  missed,  and  decided  to  paint  it.  I  was  rather  glad 
this  fine  subject  lay  on  the  homeward  side  of  the  river, 
as  to  have  to  cross  and  probably  get  wet,  and  then  sit 
and  work  for  some  hours,  day  after  day,  would  have 
damped  my  ardour.  Next  day  saw  me  ready  for  the 
work,  and  my  boy  mounted  and  carrying  some  of  my 
things.  I  always  carried  my  drawing,  and  my  boy  was 
very  cunning  in  passing  on   to  the  donkey  coolies  most 

99 


CHINA:    ITS    MARVEL  AND    MYSTERY 

of   the   articles.     I   think   he   felt    that   all    his   attention 
was  required   to  sit   his  steed  and   look  important. 

We  reached  the  spot  without  incident,  and,  to  my 
delight,  found  the  blacksmith  still  there  and  busy. 
On  making  inquiries,  I  found  he  was  likely  to  remain 
for  some  days,  which  was  good  news.  But  when  I 
began  fixing  my  easel  and  putting  up  my  water-colour 
board,  he  ceased  work,  and  with  all  his  following  came 
to  see  what  I  was  doing.  Soon  the  whole  village  was 
round  me,  but  all  were  polite  and  smiling.  It  was  only 
natural  curiosity  that  drew  them.  I  was  quite  prepared 
for  this,  and  had  taken  the  precaution  to  bring  a  rope 
with  me,  which  I  fixed  up  on  sticks,  triangle-fashion  ; 
and,  sitting  within  this,  I  kept  them  all  at  a  respectful 
distance. 

Very  soon  the  smith  returned  to  his  work  and  left 
me  to  mine,  the  usual  loafers  being  divided  between  us. 
As  that  day  went  on  and  the  work  proceeded,  I  found 
that  these  visitors  took  an  intelligent  interest  in  the 
picture.  They  do  not,  as  would  the  same  class  at  home, 
come  and  look  and  pass  on ;  but  they  discuss  with  each 
other  the  merits  of  the  work  (my  boy  told  me  this),  and 
in  looking,  put  their  hands  up  to  their  eyes,  telescope- 
fashion. 

The  weather  for  a  time  became  very  unsettled,  with 
heavy  thunderstorms  and  accompanying  rains.  The  last 
day  of  my  work  at  this  place  a  terrific  storm  burst  over 


lOO 


PEI-TAI-HO 

us,  and  in  haste  I  closed  up  my  things,  put  them  against 
a  neighbouring  tree,  and  ran  over  to  the  temple ;  but 
the  rain  fell  in  such  torrents  that  in  a  few  minutes  the 
small  stream  was  all  over  the  road,  and  we  had  to  race 
through  it,  rescue  my  things,  and  carry  them  to  the 
temple,  where  we  stood  for  perhaps  half-an-hour,  by 
which  time  not  only  the  road  but  all  the  low  ground 
round  was  deeply  flooded.  When  the  storm  passed  there 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  mount  and  ride  home  through 
the  water.  Where  but  a  little  time  before  I  had  sat  at 
work  was  now  two  feet  of  water,  but  the  coolies  had 
rolled  up  their  nether  garments,  and  the  donkeys  did 
not  mind,  so  on  we  went ;  where  the  track  was  in  a 
hollow,  it  was  very  difficult  to  avoid  the  deep  ruts  which 
we  could  no  longer  see.  Farther  on,  we  found  what 
ordinarily  was  a  shallow  brook  now  a  tearing  flood ;  and 
the  poor  little  animals  had  all  they  could  do  to  keep  on 
their  feet.  More  than  once  I  thought  we  should  go  down, 
but  we  got  safely  over;  and  on  the  higher  ground,  just 
as  we  neared  Pei-tai-ho,  the  track  went  along  a  sort  of 
chasm,  worn  out  by  carts  and  water.  I  was  ahead,  and, 
hearing  an  exclamation,  turned  round  to  see  pride 
humbled.  My  "boy"  was  on  his  back  in  the  sloppy 
mud,  and  his  donkey  looking  at  him,  as  much  as  to 
say,  "Why  have  you  done  that?"  But  his  national 
characteristic — cheerfulness — did  not  desert  him  ;  he  got 
up  with  a  smile  and  assured  me  he  was  not  hurt. 

G  2  lOI 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

When  I  reached  home  I  was  told  there  had  been 
a  great  waterspout  burst  that  day  just  off  Pei-tai-ho ;  its 
course  had  been  very  close  to  where  the  Admiralty  yacht 
was  moored,  on  which  Vice-Admiral  Lambton  had  come 
up  north.  And  about  this  time  we  heard  of  the  disas- 
trous typhoon  which  caused  so  much  damage  and  loss  of 
life  at  Hong  Kong.  The  vessel  on  which  friends  of  ours 
were  coming  up  from  Shanghai  was  luckily  in  shelter 
at  Cheefoo,  and  their  arrival  was  delayed,  so  that  when 
they  reached  Chinwangtao  the  morning  after  the  storm, 
there  was  no  train  to  take  them  on  to  Pei-tai-ho  till 
night ;  they  therefore  decided  to  hire  a  couple  of  small 
junks  to  take  them  and  their  baggage  to  Pei-tai-ho. 
But,  on  arrival  off  that  place,  fresh  difficulty  arose ; 
there  is  no  pier,  and  the  sea  being  rough,  their  junks 
could  not  run  into  shore.  No  one  knew  they  were 
coming  in  that  way ;  so  they  sailed  up  and  down  all  day, 
trying  to  attract  attention.  Late  in  the  afternoon  one 
of  our  party,  with  the  aid  of  a  telescope,  made  out  there 
were  foreigners  on  board,  and  got  a  fishing-boat  to  put 
off  and  land  the  weary  and  hungry  travellers. 

A  beautiful  spot  much  visited  by  Pei-tai-ho  people 
is  the  Rock  Temple,  so  called  by  Europeans  because  it 
is  built  on  a  rocky  eminence  crowned  by  some  flat- 
topped  pine  trees — which  look  as  if  they  had  been  here 
for  ever,  so  old,  gnarled  and  twisted  are  they — and  with 
the    pretty    little    temple    and    tea-house    snuggling    in 


102 


THE    ROCK    TEMPLE,    PEI-TAI-HO 


PEI-TAI-HO 

among  the  projecting  rocks.     It  is  not  only  a  beautiful 

spot   to   visit   and   picnic   on,  in   the   fresh,  fine  air,  but 

has   delightful   views   all   round.     Away  to   the   south    is 

the  sea,  the  Gulf  of  Pechili,  while  to  the  west  stretches 

a    fine    panorama   of    softly   undulating    country,   and    a 

large   river,   the   Lwan-ho,  winding   its   way   to   the   sea, 

with   the   Chang-lee   Hills   sharply  defined   beyond.     To 

the  east   is    more    hilly   country,   and   away   past    Rocky 

Point  are  the  mountains  at   the   back  of  Shan-hai-kwan, 

where  the  Great  Wall  ends  at  the  sea.     No  wonder  the 

missionaries    and    the    merchants    and    officials    thought 

Pei-tai-ho  a  good    place    to    make    holiday   at,  and   rest 

their  jaded  energies  after  the  indoor  life  in  Tientsin  and 

other  large  cities.     I   think  I  remarked   that  I   lived  at 

one  house  and  slept  at  another;  and  one  night,  after  a 

heavy  rainstorm,   when    I   turned   out   to    go    to    bed,    I 

found   that  even  with   a   lantern  it  was   difficult  to  find 

my  way.     I   had   the  choice   of  two   roads — one   by  the 

shore,   the    longest,   the    other   through    the   grounds    of 

intervening  houses  and  across  some  gulleys ;  I  chose  the 

latter,  and   had  got   but  a  little  way  when  out  went  the 

lantern,  but  I  struggled  on  in  the  dark.     I  got  into  the 

first  gully,  thinking  I  knew  the  way,  only  to  find  myself 

up  to  the  knees  in  water.      I  got  out  of  that,  and  made 

up  hill  among   some   trees,  and  after  plunging  about  for 

some  time  at  last  saw  some  lights ;  and  making  for  these 

over   many  obstacles,    I   got   near  enough    to   know   the 

103 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

house.  I  was  next  door  to  my  hosts ;  but,  a  high  wall 
intervening,  I  had  to  make  a  fresh  start  and  go  a  long 
way  round  before  I  could  reach  my  bed  that  night. 

It  is  pleasant  to  walk  along  the  sandy  beach,  in  the 
evening,  towards  the  west  and  see  the  sun  setting 
gorgeously  behind  the  Chang-lee  Hills  and  reflecting  in 
the  quiet  waters  of  the  river,  near  which  are  some  boats 
owned  by  a  few  fishermen,  who  camp  on  the  shore  for 
part  of  the  year.  The  habitations  of  these  men  are  of 
the  roughest — bits  of  matting,  canvas,  &c.,  laid  over  bent 
canes,  and  tied  down  against  the  wind  somewhat  like  a 
gipsy  encampment  at  home ;  rough-looking  folk  they  are, 
but  civil  enough  to  the  foreigners  who  buy  fish  from 
them. 

Before  we  arrived  at  Pei-tai-ho  there  had  been  some 
nights'  excitement  at  "The  Cruet."  A  robber  had 
attempted  to  break  in,  and  had  been  frightened  off 
only  to  return  another  night,  when  he  was  caught  by 
the  house-boy  and  coolies,  and  tied  up  to  some  post 
until  the  nearest  mandarin  could  be  brought,  and  the 
case  tried  there  and  then  and  punishment  administered. 
When  we  came  we  therefore  brought  a  pistol  in  case 
of  further  visits  of  this  kind.  However,  this  prompt 
capture  and  punishment  had  the  happy  effect  of  stopping 
such  things,  and  our  armament  was  not  required. 


104 


CHAPTER    XVI 

SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

First  Sight  of  the  Great  Wall— Vandalism  of  Japanese  Troops— Bad  Weather- 
Floods — Railway  Bridges  carried  away— Hotel  full  of  Train-bound  Trav- 
ellers—Uphill Ride  to  the  Great  Wall — Tradition  about  It. 


M 


Y  next  journey  was  a  short  and  easy  one  to 
Shan-hai-kwan,  where  I  put  up  at  the  Railway 
Hotel  (which  might  be  much  better).  The  rail- 
way station  (Imperial  North  China  Railway)  is  about 
half  a  mile  from  the  City  Walls.  The  city  itself  is 
about  three  miles  from  the  sea,  on  the  shore  of  which 
are  the  great  summer  encampments  for  the  foreign 
troops  which  have  been  in  Northern  China  since  1900. 
A  walk  or  drive  soon  brought  me  to  the  shore,  where 
my  eyes  were  gladdened  by  the  sight  of  the  Cameron 
Highlanders,  who  were  enjoying  themselves  bathing  and 
playing  games. 

At  this  point  that  amazing  work,  the  Great  Wall  of 
China,  ends  at  the  sea,  coming  down  over  the  mountains 
behind,  and  over  the  flat  land  below,  in  a  zigzag  line. 
Standing  here,  the  sea  behind  and  the  old  wall  stretch- 
ing out  in   front,  one   can   get   a  good   idea  of  what  it 

was   in  past  times,  when   kept   in   good  order.     Let  the 

105 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

eye  follow  it  along  on  its  sinuous  course,  winding  about 
up  hill  and  down  dale,  along  the  flat  ground,  crossing 
and  bridging  streams,  passing  by  and  forming  an  outwork 
of  the  Old  City — then  gradually  rising  and  climbing 
up  the  steep  sides  of  the  mountains,  lost  to  sight  as 
it  disappears  over  their  top ;  but  you  know  it  goes 
on,  farther  and  farther,  across  this  country  that  seems 
limitless.  It  was  a  big  mind  that  conceived  this  idea. 
One  may  think  it  was  easy  to  carry  out  in  the  days  of 
autocratic  rule,  when  a  conquering  despot  had  but  to 
give  the  order,  and  his  underlings  carried  it  out  by 
slave  labour.  Nevertheless,  the  Great  Wall  of  China  is 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  Walking  along  the 
top  of  the  wall,  between  the  sea  and  city  near  where  the 
Japanese  have  their  encampment,  I  was  surprised  to 
come  on  what  appeared  a  dreadful  piece  of  vandalism. 
The  Japanese  seemed  to  be  making  some  sort  of  rifle- 
pit  or  targets  for  practice ;  but  actually  they  were 
removing  material  for  this  purpose  from  the  Great  Wall 
itself.  In  time  of  war  there  might  be  excuse  for  such 
an  act ;  but  in  time  of  peace  I  can  find  none  for  such 
wanton  destruction  of  this  world-wonder  structure.  I 
cannot  think  the  Chinese  authorities  were  consulted.  If 
the  Japanese  took  it  upon  themselves  in  their  arrogance 
to  do  this,  those  responsible  should  feel  ashamed  of 
their  act.  But,  alas !  there  is  too  much  of  this  assump- 
tion of  authority  shown  by  the  foreigner  in  China. 
1 06 


SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

During  my  stay  at  Shan-hai-kwan  we  had  a  return 
of  the  bad  weather  I  had  experienced  at  Pei-tai-ho. 
Rain  fell  in  great  quantity,  and  very  soon  the  floods 
took  a  serious  aspect.  I  was  almost  confined  to  the 
hotel  for  some  days ;  the  road  to  the  city  became  im- 
passable, and  the  main  street  of  the  city  itself  was  like 
a  rushing  river.  With  a  fellow-guest  from  the  hotel,  I 
determined  to  walk  along  the  railway  westwards,  as  we 
heard  that  the  flood  in  that  direction  was  becoming 
great.  With  difficulty  we  got  to  a  greatly  swollen  river, 
and  crossed  it  on  the  railway,  but  found  that  on  the 
farther  side  the  water  was  already  on  the  permanent 
way.  We  watched  the  evening  mail-train  to  Newch- 
wang  come  slowly  through  the  flood,  and  then  made 
our  way  back  to  the  hotel.  There  I  found  an  inquiry 
for  me.  It  appeared  the  floods  were  so  bad  that  at 
Pei-tai-ho  the  passengers  could  not  leave  the  train,  and 
had  to  travel  on  to  Shan-hai-kwan  to  stay  the  night ; 
among  them  was  my  nephew  from  Tientsin.  Next  day 
there  was  further  stoppage,  and  at  night  the  mail  was 
stopped  at  Shan-hai-kwan,  and  travellers  were  told  they 
could  go  no  farther.  No  less  than  ten  bridges  were 
swept  away,  and  I  heard  tales  of  great  iron  girders  torn 
away  by  the  flood.  It  was  only  by  great  good  fortune 
no  lives  were  lost. 

Many  of  the  travellers  were  on  their  way  to  join  the 

Siberian   Railway,   homeward   bound,  and  were  not  only 

107 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

delayed  but  lost  their  berths,  which  were  booked  before- 
hand. Some  got  back  to  Chinwangtao  and  Tientsin,  and 
made  their  way  by  sea  to  other  points ;  but  for  days  the 
hotel  was  very  crowded,  and  the  small  service  strained 
to  the  utmost.  What  hurts  one  benefits  another ;  and  I 
made  one  friend  here  from  the  Legation  at  Peking,  who, 
when  I  told  him  my  chief  object  was  to  get  permission 
to  paint  the  Imperial  Palaces,  offered  most  kindly  to 
write  to  our  Minister,  and  so  forward  the  matter. 

I,  with  this  gentleman  and  another,  made  an  ex- 
cursion on  donkeys  up  the  mountains  to  see  the  Great 
Wall.  After  passing  through  the  city  we  found  there 
was  only  a  track,  very  bad  through  the  recent  rains.  We 
had  quite  a  narrow  escape  ;  we  had  to  pass  under  an  arch- 
way through  a  spur  of  the  Great  Wall,  and,  having  been 
there  before,  I  remarked  to  my  friends  that  it  was  partly 
fallen  in.  We  had  hardly  got  through  when  there  was 
a  loud  crash.  We  did  not  wait  to  see  what  it  was ; 
but  on  our  return  journey  found  the  whole  arch  had 
fallen  in,  and  we  had  to  make  our  way  round  and 
over  the  wall. 

It  is  quite  a  long  ride  up  the  hillside ;  and  after 
going  as  far  as  the  donkeys  could  take  us,  we  dis- 
mounted, went  on  foot  farther  up,  and  were  able  to 
see  and  appreciate  what  an  amount  of  patient  labour 
must  have  been  spent  on  this  wall. 

At  this  point  the  first    few  feet    above  the    ground 

io8 


THE    GREAT    WALL 


SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

show  solid  stone  masonry,  above  which  are  large  bricks ; 
and  on  picking  up  pieces  of  this  brick  I  found  it  was 
not  hard,  and  yet  there  it  had  been  for  all  these 
centuries !  At  short  intervals,  and  wherever  there  was 
a  bridge  over  a  stream,  are  watch-towers  solidly  built 
with  battlements. 

No  precipitous  mountain-side  stops  the  wall.  It 
goes  on  and  on,  built  up  in  a  most  marvellous  manner ; 
and  away  above  us,  on  quite  a  pinnacle,  there  was  an 
outstanding  tower  from  which  the  country  could  be 
watched  for  miles.  I  was  told  that  the  method  of 
getting  the  bricks  to  the  top  was  this :  many  goats 
were  kept  and  fed  on  the  hill-tops  and  then  driven 
down  and  loaded,  each  with  a  brick  or  two.  They 
slowly  made  their  way  back  up  to  their  feeding-ground. 
On  the  outer  or  Manchurian  side  of  the  wall,  at  some 
little  distance,  are  forts  on  prominent  positions ;  some 
of  which,  judging  by  the  ruins  remaining,  must  have 
been  of  considerable  extent. 

What  a  magnificent  view  one  has  from  this  moun- 
tain-side !  Away  down  the  hillside  can  be  seen  the 
city,  with  its  old  walls  and  towers  and  gateways,  a 
temple  perhaps  showing  out  from  the  other  buildings 
because  of  its  distinctive  roof  and  pink-coloured  walls. 
Beyond  this  you  see  the  railway,  the  steel  rails  of 
which   run   in   one   continuous  line  to   the  other  side  of 

Europe — crossing  two  great   continents,  joining  the   old 

109 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

and  the  new.  Beyond  that  shines  the  blue  sea;  away 
to  the  west  are  the  Chang-lee  mountains,  with  here  and 
there  a  sparkling  river  yet  full  with  flood  water,  and 
therefore  more  noticeable.  Looking  up  the  wild  and 
steep  sides  of  the  mountains,  one  sees  the  grand  old 
wall  winding.  Browsing  peacefully  at  our  feet  are 
herds  of  goats,  descendants  perhaps  of  those  which 
bore  their  burden  up  to  build  the  wall  that  still  stands. 

The  city  of  Shan-hai-kwan,  which  I  think  may  be 
taken  as  a  fair  example  of  a  northern  provincial  town, 
is  laid  out  in  squares,  and  intersected  by  a  main 
street  from  south  to  north  and  another  from  east  to 
west.  There  are  gateways  in  the  walls  at  these  points ; 
and  all  roads  meet  at  and  under  the  old  Drum  Tower, 
the  centre  of  the  town.  This  quaint  and  picturesque 
old  building  stands  up  arching  over  the  junction  of  the 
main  streets  of  the  city,  and  seems  to  dominate  all 
around  it.  It  contains  in  the  upper  portion  the  remains 
of  the  drums  and  other  noisy  instruments,  now  no 
longer  used. 

The  streets  are  fairly  wide,  but  quite  hollow  and 
gully-like  in  form.  This  is  caused  by  the  great  wash 
of  water  from  the  hills  behind,  in  time  of  flood,  when 
the  streets  become  a  tearing  racing  torrent ;  while  in 
dry  weather  the  dust  is  very  trying. 

Hardly  a  building  is  over  one  storey  in  height,  and 

the   roofs    are    almost    flat,   with   wide    eaves    projecting 
no 


SHAN-HAI-KWAN:    THE    MAIN    STREET 


SHAN-HAI-KWAN 

far  over  the  front,  and  forming  almost  a  shelter  in 
themselves.  The  houses,  however,  have  sun-blinds. 
The  streets  being  so  hollow,  the  backs  of  the  mules 
walking  along  the  centre  are  just  on  a  level  with  the 
shop  floors.  There  is  no  footpath,  but  the  pedestrian 
gets  along  on  the  sloping  sides  of  this  road  as  best 
he  can  in  wet  weather ;  in  dry,  he  may  venture  to  walk 
in  the  dusty  track. 

The  colour  of  the  soil  is  a  rich  golden  yellow,  and 
in  dry  weather,  with  the  sun  full  on  it,  is  very  dazzling. 

The  shop  signs  are  very  varied,  of  beautiful  design 
and  full  of  colour,  each  being  distinctive  of  the  trade. 
The  shoemaker  shows  wonderful  designs  of  boots  and 
shoes.  The  druggist  has  a  tall  stone,  covered  with 
characters  no  doubt  setting  forth  and  emphasising  the 
virtues  of  all  the  wondrous  cures  he  sells.  The  fronts 
of  such  shops  as  need  not  display  their  goods — the 
fronts  that  with  us  would  be  windows — are  covered 
with  very  beautifully  made  shutters  of  open  woodwork. 

The  military  camp  being  near,  the  natives  are  accus- 
tomed to  foreigners ;  but  I  found,  when  I  sat  down  to 
work  in  the  street,  that  I  attracted  a  great  deal  more 
attention  than  I  wished  for,  and  for  a  time  I  feared 
that  I  should  again  have  trouble  with  the  authorities,, 
as  in  Shanghai  and  other  cities.  Fortunately  I  escaped 
this,  and  the  few  police  in  the  place  aided  me  by  keeping 

back  the  crowd.     When  it  was  found  that  I  was  making 

III 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

a  picture  of  their  street  and  shops,  the  shopkeepers 
seemed  very  pleased,  and  quite  glad  to  help  me  in 
any  way. 

Having  sent  off  my  boy  to  Pei-tai-ho,  I  found  it 
rather  awkward.  It  would  have  been  worse  still  had 
the  police  been  troublesome,  as  I  had  no  means  of 
interpreting.  I  hired  a  coolie  from  the  hotel ;  but  he 
could  speak  no  English,  and  apparently  talked  largely 
to  the  people  about  me,  probably  inventing  all  sorts  of 
wondrous  tales  about  his  foreign  master.  When  I  was 
painting  a  picture  which  shows  the  sign  of  a  hotel, 
and  on  which  there  is  a  lantern  which  is  let  down, 
lighted,  and  hauled  up  at  night,  this  coolie  left  my 
side ;  and,  walking  to  the  sign,  let  the  lantern  down 
and  hauled  it  up  again,  apparently  to  explain  to  me 
its  use.  At  first  appearance  it  looks  like  a  railway 
signal ;  but  I  can  assure  the  reader  it  is  a  hotel  sign, 
and  drawn  as  exactly  as  I  could  do  it. 


112 


SHAN-HAI-KWAN  :    AN    HOTEL    SIGN 


CHAPTER  XVII 

TIENTSIN 

Journey   from   Shan-hai-kwan — Arrival  at  Tientsin — The  Foreign  Settlement — The 

Pei-ho — A  Chinese  Dinner. 

THE  journey  by  rail  from  Shan-hai-kwan  to  Tientsin 
takes  the  traveller  through  very  varied  scenery, 
great  mountain  ranges  lying  to  the  north,  while 
to  the  south  he  is  for  a  good  distance  within  sight  of 
the  sea.  We  crossed  wide  rivers  winding  down  from 
mountain  to  sea,  and  passed  various  towns,  gradually 
coming  to  the  flat  land,  which  has  the  appearance  of 
great  stretches  of  mud ;  thereby  we  knew  we  were  ap- 
proaching the  Pei-ho  ("ho"  means  river)  and  Tientsin. 
Now  I  felt  I  was  once  more  back  in  the  Western  world. 
Tientsin  has  a  busy  station,  and,  save  for  the  coolies,  the 
crowd  is  mostly  foreign.  The  baggage  had  to  pass  the 
Customs,  but  that  was  quite  a  formal  matter ;  and  soon  I 
was  speeding  along  in  a  ricksha  to  my  nephew's  house, 
where  I  was  to  stay  a  few  days  before  leaving  for  Peking. 

I  have  mentioned  that  one  of  my  chief  objects  in 
North  China  was  to  get  into  some  of  the  Imperial  Palaces, 
none  of  which  had  ever  been,  to  my  knowledge,  painted 
by  a  Western  artist.     I  was  told  that  the  old  palace  at 

H  113 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Jehol  was  very  fine,  and  therefore  sent  on  my  introduc- 
tions to  our  Minister  at  Peking,  Sir  John  Jordan,  asking 
him  to  send  through  the  proper  channel  my  application 
for  such  permission.  In  Tientsin  I  was  introduced  to 
a  gentleman  who  was  shortly  going  to  Jehol  for  mission 
work ;  as  he  spoke  Chinese  and  knew  the  country,  I  was 
glad  to  avail  myself  of  such  an  excellent  chance  of  travel- 
ling in  company,  and  some  of  my  time  in  Tientsin  I 
occupied  in  preparing  for  the  journey. 

Tientsin  as  it  was  before  the  Boxer  troubles  of  1900 
no  longer  exists ;  the  old  native  city  was  demolished 
and  its  walls  levelled,  and  in  its  place  was  built,  under 
supervision  of  foreign  engineers,  a  modern  town  for  the 
Chinese.  This  is  quite  apart  from  the  various  foreign 
settlements ;  and  I  should  think  the  native  who  lives 
and  has  his  business  there  must  have  benefited  greatly 
under  the  new  order  of  things,  as  well  as  the  foreigner 
who  has  to  visit  the  native  quarter,  which,  compared 
with  the  old  native  cities,  is  clean  and  decent,  if  not 
quite  so  picturesque.  The  Chinese,  however,  have  their 
signs  and  open  shop-fronts  and  carved  woodwork,  which, 
even  when  new,  must  soon  make  a  street  picturesque  and 
give  it  a  character  seen  nowhere  else. 

The  foreign  settlements  are  large,  with  fine  buildings 

and  wide  streets,  and  are  more  distinctly  separated  than 

in  any  other  treaty  port  I  have  seen.     They  seem  to  vie 

with  each  other  in  progress. 
114 


AT    TIENTSIN 


TIENTSIN 

I  naturally  saw  more  of  the  British  section,  where, 
with  the  Gordon  Hall  —  one  of  the  strongholds  during 
the  siege  —  and  the  up-to-date  hotels,  fine  club,  public 
gardens,  great  hongs,  well-kept  and  busy  streets,  there 
was  every  sign  of  solid  progress  and  prosperity,  although 
there  may  be  just  now  a  commercial  cloud  over  this  and 
other  commercial  centres  in  the  Far  East.  America's 
financial  panic  of  1907  had  far-reaching  consequences. 

The  life  of  the  foreigner  in  Tientsin  is  much  the  same 
as  in  Shanghai  or  other  treaty  ports,  but  Tientsin  has 
a  very  bracing  dry  climate.  The  heat,  very  great  for  a 
month  or  two  in  the  summer,  is  dry.  I  have  heard  that 
this  has  a  bad  effect  on  the  nervous  system  of  a  few 
people,  but  I  venture  to  say  that  this  is  probably  the 
healthiest  treaty  port  in  China. 

Tientsin  has  a  fine  racecourse  some  little  way  outside 
the  settlement,  and  the  bi-annual  races  are  great  events 
and,  as  at  Shanghai  and  Hong  Kong,  entirely  amateur. 

On  the  Pei-ho  is  the  usual  busy  life  of  a  Chinese 
river,  having  boats  of  all  kinds  and  sizes — the  native  for 
the  inland  traffic,  of  which  Tientsin  is  the  focus  for  a 
wide  area,  and  the  great  foreign  steamships  which  ply 
from  here,  not  only  to  other  Chinese  ports,  but  all  over 
the  world.  This  being  the  collecting  place  for  products 
of  North  China  and  Mongolia,  from  whence  comes  a  great 
quantity  of  wool,  skins,  furs,  &c.,  traflfic  flows  in  from 
all    directions,    and    is    shipped    to    the    great    Western 

"5 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

markets ;  and  you  and  I  may  sit  comfortably  in  our 
homes  in  Britain,  our  feet  resting  on  carpets  made  of 
wool  from  Tientsin,  and  our  boots  the  product  of  skins 
from  the  district,  and  our  womenfolk  dressed  in  luxurious 
furs  brought  from  far  Mongolia  on  camel-back. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  my  nephew  informed  me  that  the 
compradores  of  my  brother's  firm  here  wished  to  honour 
me  by  a  dinner.  Now  I  had  always  rather  eschewed 
luxuries,  believing  that  in  such  a  climate  as  China  plain 
fare  was  best ;  but  such  politeness  demanded  politeness,  so 
I  accepted  the  kindly  invitation.  As  is  customary  when  a 
foreigner  is  invited  to  dine,  he  can  take  one  or  two  guests 
with  him,  and  my  nephew  and  Mr.  Drysdale  accompanied  me. 
It  was  with  the  latter  I  hoped  to  travel  to  Jehol.  His  know- 
ledge of  the  language  and  the  food  proved  useful,  and  greatly 
helped  the  entertainment  at  a  restaurant  in  the  native  city. 
The  tables  were  lavishly  set  out  in  a  fine  large  room.  The 
number  of  small  dishes  on  the  table  were  very  numerous, 
and  a  continuous  stream  of  surprises  were  borne  in  by  the 
many  attendants.  My  appetite  was  not  great,  so  that  I 
was  in  a  position  to  pick  and  choose  ;  but  I  had  difficulty 
in  discovering  what  each  course  was.  My  friends  told  me 
there  were  many  delicacies  on  the  table,  but  this  did  not 
help  me  in  making  choice,  and  I  limited  myself  to  tasting 
one  or  two  dishes,  and  pleading  doctor's  orders  for  not 
partaking   more   heartily   of  all    the  good   things.      One 

dish   I  noticed  in  particular  contained  dark,  very  shiny, 
ii6 


TIENTSIN 

gelatinous-looking,  egg-shaped  objects.  I  was  told  they 
were  a  great  luxury  and  very  expensive — eggs  which  for 
a  long  time  had  been  buried  in  the  ground.  I  found 
shark's-fin  soup  rather  coarse  and  salty. 

While  dining  we  were  entertained  by  dancing  and 
singing  girls.  In  "The  Attachd  at  Peking"  there  is  given 
an  excellent  description  of  a  Chinese  meal,  and  it  almost 
exactly  describes  that  at  which  I  was  present : — 

"  A  Chinese  meal  exactly  reverses  the  order  of  things 
which  is  practised  in  Europe.  First  came  cups  of  tea,  and, 
when  these  were  all  cleared  away,  two  tiny  saucers  were 
placed  before  each  person.  Then  the  dessert  and  sweets 
were  put  on  the  table,  oranges  and  apples,  candied  walnuts, 
sweets  of  all  kinds,  hemp-seed  done  up  with  flour  and 
sugar,  apricot  kernels  preserved  in  oil  and  dried,  and  other 
delicacies.  Next  came  the  savoury  meats ;  of  these  the 
most  remarkable  were  sea-slugs — like  turtle-soup  in  taste, 
bamboo  sprouts,  sharks'  fins,  and  deer's  sinews.  All 
gelatinous  dishes  are  the  most  highly  prized ;  the  famous 
bird's-nest  soup  is  just  like  isinglass  not  quite  boiled  down. 
Finally  came  a  sort  of  soup  of  rice.  I  found  it  very 
difficult  at  first  to  eat  with  chop-sticks.  The  manner  of 
eating  is  to  dip  your  chop-sticks  into  any  one  of  the  bowls 
and  transfer  a  morsel  to  your  own  saucers,  which  are  not 
changed,  neither  are  the  chop-sticks  wiped  during  the 
whole  proceeding.  If  you  wish  to  pay  a  personal  compli- 
ment, you  select  a  tit-bit  with  your  own  chop-sticks  and 

H  2  117 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

put  it  on  your  neighbour's  plate,  and  he  does  the  same  in 
return.  This  gives  the  entertainment  the  appearance  of  an 
indecorous  scramble,  for  one  is  continually  leaning  across 
two  or  three  people  to  pay  some  civility.  The  dishes  are 
very  rich,  and  I  should  think  unwholesome  in  the  extreme. 
There  were  upwards  of  sixty  different  eatables  put  upon 
the  table,  and  I  must  own  that  although  my  chop-sticks 
went  into  nearly  every  little  bowl,  there  was  not  one  which 
did  not  please  my  taste.  Native  wine  was  served  to  us  in 
little  cups  of  the  size  of  our  liqueur  glasses  ;  it  had  rather  a 
pleasant  taste  and  was  very  dry.  As  soon  as  the  meal  was 
over  the  Chinese  gentlemen  produced  out  of  their  boots 
(which  seem  an  inexhaustible  receptacle  for  everything, 
from  tobacco  to  state  papers)  small  pieces  of  paper,  with 
which  they  wiped  their  mouths  and  ivory  chop-sticks ;  and 
then  came  a  piece  of  Chinese  politeness  which  is  very 
offensive  to  Europeans ;  for  it  is  good  manners  here,  out  of 
compliment  to  the  host,  and  in  token  of  having  eaten  well 
and  been  satisfied,  to  produce  the  longest  and  loudest 
eructations,  and  H^ng-Chi  and  the  two  generals  left 
nothing  to  be  desired  in  that  respect,  making  a  great 
display  of  good  breeding.  Tea  and  conversation  in  the 
court  of  the  temple  brought  my  first  Chinese  entertain- 
ment to  a  close.  I  can't  tell  you  how  strange  it  seemed  to 
me,  to  begin  with  dessert  and  end  with  soup." 


ii8 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

PEKING 

Arrival  at  Night — A  Ricksha  Ride.  The  Legation  and  My  Visit  There — I  apply  for 
Permission  to  Go  to  Jehol  and  Paint  within  the  Palace  There — A  General 
Impression  of  Peking  from  the  Tartar  Walls — View  of  the  Imperial  Palace — 
The  Legation  Quarter — The  Hata-Men  Street. 

THE  country  between  Tientsin  and  the  capital  is 
mostly  flat,  and,  seen  from  the  train,  not  very 
interesting ;  but  the  journey  is  short,  and  very 
soon  I  could  see  in  the  distance  signs  of  the  city.  The 
approach  is  not  impressive  till  you  get  close  to  it,  when 
the  train  passes  through  the  outer  wall  of  the  Chinese 
city ;  then  one  begins  to  realise  that  one  is  approaching 
a  rather  wonderful  and  mysterious  place. 

It  was  the  evening  of  an  early  October  day ;  and  out  of 
the  gloom  I  began  to  see  high  gateways,  and,  away  to  the 
right,  the  pinnacle  of  a  circular  building  which  I  after- 
wards found  was  the  Temple  of  the  Year,  at  the  Temple 
of  Heaven.  Then  we  ran  alongside  the  great  Tartar  wall, 
part  of  which  was  such  a  menace  to  the  Legations  in  1900. 
By-and-by  we  drew  slowly  into  the  station,  which  is  the 
eastern  extremity  of  that  long  steel  line  linking  Peking, 

the  capital  of  the  most  ancient  civilisation,  with — but  for 

119 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

the  narrow  Channel — London,  the  capital  of  the  greatest 
modern  civilisation. 

I  had  travelled  light,  in  expectation  of  my  further 
journey  by  road  to  Jehol,  and  so  was  not  long  in  leaving 
the  station,  and  entered  Peking  through  the  Water  Gate, 
the  entrance  by  which  the  relief  of  the  Legations  was 
effected.  But  things  are  changed  since  1900.  This  gate 
is  now  held  by  the  foreign  troops.  Passing  through  it 
I  found  myself  on  a  well-made  road,  with  a  canal  on  one 
side,  and,  on  the  other,  modern  European  buildings.  One 
building,  blazing  with  light  and  with  a  fine  entrance 
and  wide-open  portals,  I  found  was  the  Grand  Hotel  des 
Wagon-Lits,  a  modern  and  up-to-date  hotel,  which  I 
made  my  home  in  Peking. 

After  an  excellent  dinner,  I  called  a  ricksha  and  told 

the  coolie  to  take  me  for  an  hour's  run  in  the  city.     At 

last  I  had  reached  what  I  considered  my  goal,  and,  though 

it  was  dark,  I  was  impatient  to  see  the  city.     There  is  to 

me  always  something  fascinating  in  seeing  a  strange  city 

for  the  first  time  by  artificial  light.     The  streets,  by  the 

way,  are  lighted  by  electricity,  a  sign  of  the  modern,  in 

all  conscience  !    My  drive  was  not  a  long  one  ;  up  Legation 

Street  and  the  Hata-Men  Street,  and  back  by  a  road  which 

a  few  of  us,  not  succeeding  in  getting  hold  of  the  right 

name,   afterwards    christened   "  Morrison   Street,"   as    the 

famous  correspondent  of  the   Times,  Dr.  Morrison,  lives 

there.     But  I  had  seen  a  little  of  Peking,  and  went  to  bed 
120 


PEKING 

with  a  feeling  of  satisfaction.  My  first  morning  in  the 
capital  saw  me  up  and  about  early,  keen  to  get  my  first 
impressions  of  this  remarkable  place.  But  I  had  to  be 
patient.  In  spite  of  the  great  rains  and  floods,  which 
recently  had  caused  so  much  damage  to  the  country  and 
made  travelling  inland  so  difficult,  my  friend  Mr.  Drysdale 
was  making  his  preparations  to  start  for  Jehol,  and  I  had 
to  push  on  mine.  So  to  the  Legation  I  wended  my  way 
in  the  brilliant  clear  sunlight  of  an  October  morning ;  and 
those  who  know  how  delightful  the  weather  can  be  in 
October  in  this  part  of  the  world,  will  know  all  that 
means.  From  the  hotel  I  passed  out  ;  and  crossing 
the  bridge  to  the  right  on  the  roadway  bounded  on  one 
side  by  the  canal  which  runs  through  the  historic  Water 
Gate,  and  on  the  other  by  a  high  and  solid-looking  grey 
brick  wall  which  bounds  our  Legation,  I  soon  came  to 
the  unpretentious  looking  entrance  to  the  home  of  our 
representative  in  China.  As  I  approached  I  caught  the 
gleam  and  glitter  of  the  (to  a  Scot)  welcome  sight  of 
a  Cameron  Highlander — doing  the  sentry-go — and  then 
turned  inside  the  gates.  What  a  lovely  place !  I  believe 
that,  before  coming  into  our  possession,  it  was  a  ducal 
palace.  Passing  the  lodge  at  the  gateway,  and  directed  by 
a  native  gatekeeper,  I  went  along  a  broad  and  well-kept 
roadway  bordered  by  beautiful  trees  and  turf,  and  on  the 
right  came  to  a  very  fine  specimen  of  Chinese  archi- 
tecture, a  great  roofed  but  open-sided  entrance  hall.     The 

121 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

roof  was  of  beautiful  form,  and  all  its  timbers  and  support- 
ing posts  gaily  coloured  in  true  Chinese  fashion.  The 
floor,  approached  by  stone  steps,  was  paved.  On  through 
this,  and  another  somewhat  similar  but  partly  closed  in, 
I  at  last  came  to  the  Minister's  house  itself,  still  of  the 
original  Chinese  architecture. 

Here  I  was  passed  by  the  native  servant  into  the 
entrance  hall,  very  large  and  beautifully  arranged,  and 
showing  exquisite  carving  and  fretwork  in  the  woodwork 
fittings.  From  this,  with  but  a  few  minutes'  wait,  I  was 
shown  into  the  private  room  of  our  genial  Minister.  He 
received  me  most  cordially,  and  then,  as  during  the  whole 
of  my  stay  in  Peking,  was  most  kind  to  me  in  all  ways ; 
so,  too,  were  the  members  of  his  staff. 

He  told  me  my  application  for  a  passport  and  per- 
mission to  sketch  within  the  precincts  of  the  palace  at 
Jehol  had  been  sent  in  through  the  Wai-wu-pu  (Foreign 
Office),  and  he  had  no  doubt  it  would  be  granted,  although 
the  time  was  short  in  which  to  get  through  the  formalities 
required,  even  for  such  a  small  thing  as  this.  Now  my 
good  luck  came  in.  The  Minister  told  me  that  the 
Legation  had  permission  for  a  party  of  English  people, 
many  of  the  officers  of  the  Cameron  Highlanders  and 
a  few  civilians,  to  visit  and  go  over  the  Winter  Palace 
within  a  day  or  two,  and  that  as  some  one  had  dropped 
out  he  thought  I  might  go  instead.  I  was  very  pleased 
to   have   this   opportunity.      I  knew  how  difficult  it  was 

122 


PEKING 

for  a  foreigner  to  get  permission,  and  my  professional 
instinct  made  me  doubly  anxious  to  join  this  party.  So 
I  left  the  Legation  in  very  good  spirits,  charmed  with 
my  kindly  reception  and  with  the  early  prospect  of 
seeing  such  a  famous  place. 

While  waiting  in  suspense,  both  as  to  my  proposed 
journey  to  Jehol  and  the  visit  to  the  Winter  Palace, 
I  had  a  little  time  to  look  round  Peking  itself,  and  form 
some  impression  of  the  city.  From  various  points  of 
the  Tartar  wall  a  very  good  idea  can  be  formed  of  the 
extent  and  general  scheme,  and  it  at  once  struck  me 
that  the  city  in  its  first  laying  out  was  most  carefully 
considered  and  planned.  I  say  **  city,"  but  it  might  more 
correctly  be  described  as  three  cities,  with  even  a  fourth 
in  the  centre. 

Say  that  the  traveller  is  on  the  wall  by  the  Tsien-Men 
("  men "  means  gate).  The  inner  gate  and  gatehouse 
over  it  is  in  and  on  the  main  wall ;  but  outwards  from 
this  there  is  a  great  square  projecting  wall,  with  a  gate- 
house most  suited  for  purposes  of  defence,  and  at  either 
end  of  this  projecting  wall  (which  encloses  a  considerable 
space  of  ground)  are  gates  used  for  ordinary  traffic,  this 
then  converging  on  this  inner  central  gate.  The  outer 
central  gate  is  only  opened  to  allow  of  direct  passage 
on  state  occasions.  The  upper  part  of  the  inner  gateway 
has   been   entirely   rebuilt   since   it  was   ruined   in    1900, 

and  is  a  marvellous  example  of  this  sort  of  building.      It 

123 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

rises  to  a  considerable  height,  with  great  red  pillars 
supporting  the  different  projecting  roofs  and  floors  of 
each  storey,  and  is  most  gorgeously  painted  and  gilded. 
It  does  not  seem  from  this  that  the  modern  Chinaman 
has  lost  any  of  his  cunning  and  design  in  such  buildings. 

This,  the  Tsien-Men,  is  the  chief  gate  in  the  Tartar 
wall ;  and  supposing  the  traveller  to  stand  on  this  part 
of  the  wall,  he  will  have,  stretching  out  to  the  south, 
but  twice  that  much  in  width  from  east  to  west,  the 
Chinese  city;  at  his  feet,  right  under  the  wall,  is  the 
railway  station — then  a  narrow  piece  of  water,  the  old 
moat,  over  which  the  road  is  carried  by  a  very  fine  wide 
marble  bridge  with  balustrades  of  beautiful  design,  and 
beyond  a  great  painted  wooden  pailau.  Looking  straight 
away  south,  he  will  see  the  main  street,  running  right 
out  to  the  Yungting-Men,  the  gate  of  the  Chinese  city 
wall.  Near  by  are  crowds  of  rather  squalid-looking 
houses ;  beyond  them  is  a  great  open  space  on  either 
side  of  the  road ;  and  again  on  each  side  of  this  space 
are  masses  of  trees,  those  to  the  left  being  in  the  grounds 
surrounding  the  Temple  of  Heaven,  and  on  the  right 
the  Temple  of  Agriculture,  and  the  pinnacles  and  roofs 
of  these  wonderful  buildings  can  be  seen  peeping  out 
of  the  trees.  Now  turn  north  and  you  have,  almost 
within  a  square,  the  great  Tartar  city.  In  its  centre 
is  the  Imperial  city,  enclosed  in  pink-coloured  walls,  and 

within  that  again  the  Forbidden  City  and  Winter  Palace. 

124 


PEKING 

When  the  Northern  race  conquered  China,  they  ar- 
ranged their  capital  with  due  regard  to  their  own  safety, 
separating  the  conquered  Chinese  and  keeping  them  out- 
side their  city,  and  again  enclosing  the  Imperial  residence 
within  its  own  walls. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  walls,  quite  close  to  the 
Tsien-Men,  begins  the  great  state  entrance  to  the  For- 
bidden City,  this  entrance  being  only  used  on  state 
occasions  by  the  Imperial  family,  as  when  they  go  and 
return  from  making  sacrifice  at  the  Temple  of  Heaven. 
The  first  part  of  this  entrance,  and  all  that  is  visible 
to  the  onlooker,  is  a  great  square  stone-paved  yard,  sur- 
rounded by  a  very  beautifully  worked  open  marble  wall ; 
only  the  tops  of  the  pillars  show  anything  of  the  original 
white ;  it  is  not  in  good  repair,  and  there  is  a  roadway 
passing  round  three  sides  of  it.  It  is  splashed  with  mud 
and  damaged  by  traffic  and  passers-by ;  and  as  it  is  close 
to  the  chief  gate,  the  Tsien-Men,  the  traffic  is  very  great. 
There  is  here  one  continuous  stream  of  foot-passengers, 
rickshas,  Peking  (and  other)  carts,  trains  of  camels,  mules, 
ponies,  all  entering  or  leaving  and  pushing  and  jostling 
through  the  narrow  gateway,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands 
a  native  policeman,  endeavouring  to  guide  the  different 
strings  in  or  out :  in  wet  weather  he  stands  on  the  large 
stone  on  which  the  great  gates  close,  to  keep  out  of  the 
slush  and  mud ;  it  is  then  very  bad,  the  roadway  being  of 

old  flat  paving-stones  with  great  ruts  and  holes. 

125 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Beyond  this  large  courtyard  rises  the  first  Imperial 
gate,  with  its  great  yellow  roof  gleaming  and  glistening 
in  the  sun,  and  its  red  pillars  and  wonderfully  painted 
woodwork  under  the  wide  projecting  eaves.  From  the 
elevation  of  the  wall  can  be  seen  beyond  more  yellow 
roofs  and  red  walls,  and  in  the  distance,  on  Coal  Hill, 
still  more  gleaming  out  among  trees.  Talking  of  trees, 
Peking  might  almost  be  described  as  a  woodland  city; 
seen  from  this  height  it  has  the  effect  of  great  masses 
of  green,  with  the  roofs  of  houses  peeping  up  here  and 
there,  and  the  yellow  palaces  dominating  the  whole. 

The  part  of  the  Tartar  wall  extending  from  the 
Tsien-Men  to  the  Hata-Men  is  now  held  by  the  inter- 
national troops,  a  sure  preventative  to  its  ever  being  the 
menace  it  was  in  1900  to  the  safety  of  the  foreign  Lega- 
tions. All  of  them  are  now  placed  within  what  is 
known  as  Legation  Quarter,  bounded  on  the  south  by 
this  section  of  the  Tartar  wall,  and  on  the  east,  west, 
and  north,  by  their  own  walls  and  ditches.  Outside  this 
a  great  clear  space  was  created  after  the  1900  siege,  by 
clearing  away  masses  of  native  houses,  and  so  removing 
the  cover  under  shelter  of  which  the  Boxers  were  able 
to  work  their  way  close  up  to  the  Legation. 

Within  the  Legation  Quarter  it  is  difficult  to  believe 

that  one  is  in  China,  and  in  Peking — of  all  places — so 

absolutely  European  has  it    become.     Wide  streets,  well 

laid  out  with  macadam,  paved  side-walks,  good  drainage, 
126 


PEKING 

&c. — these  improvements,  I  believe,  have  all  been  made 
since  1900.  The  buildings  of  the  Legation,  and  of  the 
Customs  and  the  few  private  houses,  are  nearly  all 
modern  and  of  good  style.  There  is  within  this  quarter 
only  one  large  shop  or  store.  The  foreigner  is  not 
allowed  to  trade  in  Peking,  excepting  with  such  goods 
as  are  necessary  for  the  resident  foreigners.  The  Wagon- 
Lits  Hotel  is  also  near  the  Water  Gate.  The  Legations 
are  all  within  spacious  grounds.  The  ordinary  Chinese 
are  not  allowed  access  to  this  quarter  if  their  business 
is  not  known.  I  have  even  known  my  boy  stopped  if 
far  in  advance  of  me — and,  recalling  the  past,  one  feels 
this  is  a  right  and  necessary  precaution.  I  passed  up 
Legation  Street  and  into  Hata-Men  Street,  which  is 
perhaps  one  of  the  chief  streets,  and  soon  saw  the  dif- 
ference. I  was  in  China  again  !  This  street,  long  and 
straight,  practically  dividing  this  part  of  the  Tartar  city 
from  south  and  north,  is  very  wide ;  and  the  roadway, 
which,  I  believe,  was  a  very  few  years  ago  (in  the  old- 
time  style)  a  deep  gully  along  which  passengers,  carts, 
and  animals  made  their  way  as  best  they  could  through 
mud  or  dust,  is  now  in  the  centre  part  well-laid  mac- 
adam with  a  deep  drain  at  either  side,  and  in  between 
that  and  the  houses  is  a  wide  but  rough  and  dusty — in 
wet  weather  muddy — roadway.  Between  the  old  and  new 
are  planted  young  trees,  showing  that    in   adopting  new 

ways  the  Chinese  keep  their  ideas  of  what  is  beautiful. 

127 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Now  a  curious  feature  appears.  To  the  old,  rough, 
and  badly  made  part  of  the  roads  on  either  side  is  rele- 
gated the  heavy  traffic  of  the  unimportant  persons,  camel 
trains,  heavy  carts  with  mules,  barrows,  and  such  like, 
while  on  the  hard  well-made  new  road  run  the  carriages 
now  largely  used  by  official  Chinese ;  rickshas,  and 
foreigners  riding  or  in  any  vehicle,  Peking  carts  (used 
by  officials  or  foreigners)  being  also  allowed.  Many 
times  have  I  seen  a  heavily  laden  cart  stuck  in  the  mud 
of  the  old  side  roads. 

Along  this  wide  thoroughfare  are  most  of  the  curio- 
shops,  and,  therefore,  to  this  street  foreigners  make  their 
way ;  but,  if  wet,  it  is  very  unpleasant  to  get  from  shop 
to  shop  on  this  horrid  old  track.  At  various  points  the 
street  is  spanned  by  great  ornamental  memorial  arch- 
ways, or  pailaus,  one  very  noticeable  being  of  fine 
marble,  erected  to  the  memory  of  Baron  von  Kettler, 
the  German  Minister  who  was  basely  assassinated  in 
1900. 

The  city,  as  I  have  said,  is  well  planned — great 
streets  intersecting  it  from  gate  to  gate  and  crossed  by 
others,  dividing  the  whole  up  into  squares ;  thus  making  it 
comparatively  easy  for  the  stranger  to  find  his  way 
about.  This  cannot  be  said  of  Canton  or  other  Chinese 
cities,  with  their  maze  of  narrow  twisting  alleys. 

The  cross  streets  from  east    to  west    have,  of  course, 

to  diverge  to  get  round  the  Forbidden  City.     The  main 
128 


PEKING 

streets  are  all  more  or  less  relaid  with  macadam,  and 
fairly  good,  but  the  by-streets  are  still  bad,  and  if  one 
has  occasion  to  go  along  them  it  is  not  always  pleasant ; 
but  Peking  is  far  ahead  of  any  other  Chinese  city  I  have 
seen,  in  cleanliness  and  good  order.  There  is  a  large 
force  of  well-drilled  police,  whom  I  found  obliging  and 
ready  to  help  in  directing  one  about.  Where  foreigners 
of  all  nations  live  within  the  walls  of  a  city,  as  they  do 
here,  the  people  are  naturally  more  accustomed  to  see 
them  about,  and,  therefore,  they  excite  little  curiosity ; 
and  in  the  Hata-Men  and  kindred  streets  their  advent 
is  hailed  with  well-hidden  pleasure,  for  the  foreigner  is 
the  best  customer  for  these  dealers  in  old  furniture  and 
curios.  The  foreigner  pays  the  best  price  and  has  the 
least  knowledge — two  things  which  rather  please  the 
shopkeeper. 

To  visit  Peking  without  going  to  see  these  shops 
would  be  to  miss  a  great  deal.  I  spent  many  pleasant 
hours  among  them,  and  saw  very  beautiful  articles.  The 
Peking  furniture  is  very  distinct  from  the  Cantonese. 
Peking  people  mostly  use  a  beautifully  coloured,  reddish- 
brown  wood,  and  the  carving  is  in  low  relief  and  at 
times  very  delicate.  It  is  also  the  collecting-place  for 
curios  of  all   kinds  from  all    Northern  China. 

The  Chinese  are  great  connoisseurs  and  keen  buyers, 

and   the  foreigner  has  only  followed   them   in  this.     But 

nowadays  prices  rule  very  high.    I  heard  it  said  frequently 

I  129 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

that   similar  curios  can   be   bought   at    home  as  cheaply 
and  as  good  as  in  Peking. 

Till  quite  recently  Peking  was  a  most  inaccessible 
place,  and  not  very  comfortable  to  stay  in  when  the 
traveller  did  get  there ;  and  to  Western  people  it  has 
always  been  more  or  less  a  city  of  mystery.  No 
wonder  that,  becoming  within  the  last  few  years  com- 
paratively easy  to  get  at  and  reasonably  comfortable 
to  stay  in,  it  is  now  being  made  a  tourists'  centre  for 
the  Far  East.  With  the  Siberian  Railway  bringing  it 
within  fifteen  days  of  London,  we  may  probably  soon 
find  it  a  fashionable  resort  of  wealthy  travellers  for, 
at  any  rate,  a  short  time  in  the  year. 


130 


CHAPTER  XIX 

VISIT  TO  THE  WINTER  PALACE 

Drive  to  the  Gates — Reception  There — A  Chinese  Palace — The  Architecture  and 
Decoration — Bronzes — White  Marble  Lanterns — Boats  on  Lotus  Lake — The 
Prison-house  of  the  Emperor — The  Dragon  Screen — The  Dagoba,  a  View  of 
It — The  Emperor's  Garden. 

1WAS  glad  to  find  I  was  included  in  the  party 
about  to  visit  the  Winter  Palace,  and,  engaging  a 
ricksha,  went  over  to  the  Legation.  There  I  found 
all  our  party  waiting,  anxious  to  start  to  the  mysterious 
palace  from  which  all  these  threatening,  then  wheedling, 
notices  and  edicts  issued  to  the  crowded  besieged,  within 
the  very  walls  of  the  Legation  where  we  now  stood. 
Now  we  were  going  as  honoured  guests  to  view  the 
palace  of  that  autocratic  ruler  the  Dowager  Empress. 

Our  party  numbered  from  twenty  to  thirty  ladies  and 
gentlemen.  Many  were  officers  of  the  Camerons,  and 
there  were  a  few  travellers  who  were  staying  in  Peking. 
We  went  under  the  convoy  of  a  member  of  the  Legation 
staff.  Most  of  us  were  in  rickshas,  a  few  in  carriages, 
and  some  in  a  motor.  Yes — a  motor  in  Peking  in  1908! 
There  are,  I  think,  two  motors  kept  for  hire  by  an 
enterprising  foreigner.  The  new  roads  in  the  city  and 
the   Imperial    Road  to  the  Summer  Palace  make  the  use 

131 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

of  the  motor  possible,  but  it  is  restricted  to  these.  We 
entered  the  Imperial  City  by  the  gate  on  the  western 
part  of  the  southern  wall,  and  our  way  took  us  along 
outside  the  wall  of  the  Forbidden  City  for  some  distance. 
This  inmost  wall  of  all  is  of  coarse  red,  and  of  con- 
siderable height  and  thickness,  with  battlements  and  at 
intervals  watch-towers.  At  each  corner  these  have  the 
appearance  of  pavilions,  with  beautiful  roofs  in  several 
tiers  and  the  Imperial  yellow  tiles,  which  are  also  used 
on  the  tops  of  the  walls ;  under  the  wall  is  a  white  fosse, 
or  ditch,  full  of  water.  We  then  turned  to  the  left ;  and 
passing  through  a  gate  with  sentries  into  a  large  open 
space,  still  outside  the  Forbidden  City,  we  crossed  this 
and  went  within  the  sacred  precincts  at  a  point  between 
the  palace  building  and  Prospect  (or  Coal)  Hill,  which 
is  an  eminence  on  the  north,  with  various  yellow-tiled 
pavilions  or  temples,  from  which  extensive  views  of  the 
city  may  be  obtained.  To  this  hill,  however,  we  were 
not  admitted.  We  now  came  to  an  inner  gate,  at  which 
we  dismounted  from  our  various  conveyances  and 
gathered  together,  ready  to  be  received  by  the  high 
officials  detailed  by  the  Wai-wu-pu  for  that  purpose. 
Soon  they  appeared  from  inside  the  gates,  in  full  dress 
according  to  their  rank ;  and  picturesque  they  looked,  as 
they  stood  in  this  gateway  in  their  many  coloured  robes, 
showing  beautiful   embroidery — to  denote  their  rank — on 

their    breasts    and    backs,    their    high    satin    boots,    and 
132 


VISIT  TO  THE  WINTER   PALACE 

plumed  hats  with  the  peacock-feather  sticking  out  be- 
hind. They  were  quite  in  keeping  with  their  setting ; 
and  it  was  we  prosaic-looking  modern-clad  foreigners 
who  were  the  wrong  note  in  the  picture.  After  we  had 
all  been  presented,  they  led  the  way  within.  The  whole 
place,  though  showing  signs  of  age,  is  in  fairly  good 
order.  I  was  told  much  money  has  been  spent  on 
repairs  since  1900.  The  buildings  are  of  the  same  form 
as  the  temples ;  indeed  it  is  hard  to  tell  which  is  temple 
and  which  is  audience-hall  or  residential  building,  though 
perhaps  the  wooden  lattice-work  windows  are  more  in 
evidence  at  the  latter,  some  of  which  have  glass,  but 
more  often  thin  paper,  inside  the  lattice-work.  The 
woodwork  is  very  good,  and  in  many  designs. 

In  Europe  we  think  of  a  palace  as  a  very  large  and 
extensive  building,  but  it  is  not  so  in  China.  The 
Chinese  palace  consists  of  numerous  groups  of  buildings, 
impressive  rather  from  their  designs  and  places  than 
from  the  size.  Another  feature  is  the  vastness  of  the 
courtyards  in  which  they  are  placed. 

As  in  Rome,  St.  Peter's  always  appeared  to  me  to 
be  most  impressive  and  greatest  when  approached  from 
the  immense  square  in  front,  so  do  the  Chinese  palaces 
and  temples  gain  in  the  same  way. 

Through   such  a  great  courtyard,  then,  we  passed  on 

to    an    oblong    entrance-hall,    and    from    that    into    the 

enormous  courtyard,  in   which,   I   believe,   audiences  are 

I  2  133 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

at  times  held.  There  you  see  where  the  chief  mandarins 
have  their  places.  There  is  a  glitter  as  of  gold  from 
the  many  gorgeous,  sun-lit,  yellow-tiled  roofs,  with  their 
ridges  decorated  by  symbolic  monsters,  which  take 
curious  forms  in  the  light  and  shadow  of  the  blazing  sun, 
and  the  curved  gable  ends  of  the  roofs  rising  in  fantastic 
shapes.  Away  beyond  this  is  the  great  audience-hall, 
which  only  the  great  ones  are  ever  allowed  to  enter. 

But  what  lavish  architecture  is  seen  here !  the 
splendid  painted  and  decorated  woodwork,  showing,  as 
all  this  sort  of  decorative  ornament  in  China  does  show, 
the  predominance  of  the  dragon,  with  the  peacock's 
tail,  blue  and  green.  I  was  rather  amused  to  see  a  dis- 
tinctly modern  touch  in  this  decoration — done,  of  course, 
since  the  Dowager  Empress's  return.  On  some  of  the 
beams  were  painted  buildings  and  streets,  with  electric 
lamps,  sea-pieces,  modern  war-vessels,  &c. 

In  the  courtyards  are  wonderful  works  in  bronze — 
stags,  and  long-legged  cranes,  white  marble  lanterns  higher 
than  a  man,  gilded  basins  with  gold-fish.  It  is  lavish, 
but  withal  a  restraint,  which  only  adds  to  beauty. 

The  Chinese  fully  appreciate  that  if  a  beautiful  and 
intricate  piece  of  workmanship,  either  art  or  craft,  is  to  be 
shown  to  full  advantage,  it  should  be  by  itself;  it  must 
have  a  space  round  it,  so  that  one  can  see  the  full 
effect. 

I  passed  on  with  others ;  but  I  felt  as  though  I  were 
134:  -  '- 


VISIT  TO  THE  WINTER   PALACE 

in  dreamland,  so  real  it  seemed.  I  had  read  of  such  a 
place,  but  it  was  hard  to  realise  that  I  was  actually 
seeing  it.  We  were  rowed  across  the  Lotus  Lake,  in 
which  are  some  tracts  of  clear  water  for  the  boats ;  the 
rest  seems  one  solid  mass  of  plants.  We  sailed  near 
the  island  on  which  was  the  prison-house  of  the 
Emperor — a  pretty  prison,  its  pavilions  and  summer- 
houses  in  quaint  little  gardens,  but  a  prison  none  the 
less.  Here  is  that  wonderful  marble  bridge  now  once 
more  sacred  to  the  use  of  the  ruler,  but  ill-used  like  all 
else  here  by  the  ruthless  invader  and  righteous  revenger 
a  few  years  ago.  Near  by  is  a  gorgeous  green-and- 
yellow  pailau,  and  behind  this  the  matchless  dragon 
screen,  which  is  of  considerable  size  and  wonderfully 
decorated  with  dragons  in  high  relief;  its  glorious 
colour  is  beyond  description.  We  saw,  towering  above, 
the  Dagoba — the  Mohammedan  temple,  built  for  the 
wife  of  an  emperor  who  was  of  that  religion.  Who 
shall  say  the  Chinese  are  not  tolerant? 

All  religions  exist  and  even  flourish  in  their  midst. 
We  climbed  this  hill  by  tortuous  steps  and  winding 
paths,  to  find  more  beautiful  marble  and  bronzes ;  then 
a  long  straight  staircase,  and  the  top  is  reached — and 
spread  out  before  us  is  the  Imperial  Palace,  the  For- 
bidden City,  the  Lotus  Lake,  Coal  Hill,  and  all  the 
wonders  I  had  heard  of  There  they  all  lay  at  our  feet, 
glittering   in   the   sunlight,  whilst  away  beyond  were  the 

^3S 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Tartar  city    walls    and    gateways,   and   the  faint   outline 
of  the  western  hills. 

Amongst  the  most  beautiful  and  peaceful  places  per- 
haps in  this  fairy  palace  is  the  Emperor's  garden, 
shaded  by  trees  and  spotted  by  sunlight,  the  stone- 
paved  walks  bordered  by  sculptured  marble  and  master- 
pieces of  bronze ;  it  is  an  ideal  place  for  meditation,  but 
we  had  no  time  to  see  even  a  tithe  of  the  wonders. 

We  were  shown  some  private  rooms,  but  not  allowed 
to  enter.  These  had  glazed  windows,  and  through  them 
we  could  see  rooms  very  beautifully  fitted  and  furnished, 
and  fine  porcelain  vases  on  carved  wood  stands. 

I  longed  to  be  able  to  sketch  in  this  wonderland.  I 
knew  this  was  hopeless,  not  only  because  of  the  refusal 
I  had  already  received,  but  because  we  were  told  the 
Court  would  shortly  return  here  from  the  Summer 
Palace. 

Once  more  we  entered  the  boats,  and  were  slowly 
rowed  back  across  the  lake,  some  members  of  the  party 
pulling  lotus  flowers  as  mementoes  of  their  visit.  Rick- 
shas again,  and  the  famous  Winter  Palace  of  Peking 
became  once  more  a  dream. 


136 


CHAPTER   XX 

PEKING:    TEMPLE   OF  HEAVEN 

Disappointment — Forbidden  to  Paint  in  Jehol  Palace — Journey  Abandoned — I  go  to 
the  Temple  of  Heaven — Entrance,  and  Through  the  Parks — The  Temple  of 
the  New  Year — The  Emperor's  Robing  Temple — The  Sacrificial  Altar — 
Peaceful  Work. 

THE  night  before  the  day  appointed  for  our  start, 
I  had  a  visit  from  a  member  of  the  Legation 
staff,  bearing  a  passport  for  the  journey  to  Jehol ; 
but  with  it  the  news  that  the  permission  to  sketch  within 
the  palace  precincts  was  refused.  My  friends  of  the 
Legation  suggested  that  if  I  went  to  Jehol  I  should 
probably  on  the  spot  be  able  to  arrange  matters.  But 
this  seemed  to  my  Western  mind  too  slight  a  chance  to 
depend  on ;  I  did  not  feel  that  it  was  hopeful  enough  for 
me  to  make  an  arduous  journey,  seeing  that  the  storms 
had  made  rivers  unfordable,  and  the  roads  very  bad,  and 
a  long  roundabout  route  would  have  to  be  taken.  After 
much  discussion  I  reluctantly  determined  to  abandon  this 
journey.  I  asked  Mr.  Drysdale  to  write  to  me  from 
Jehol  and  tell  me  anything  he  could. 

But  what  annoyed  me  still  more  was  that  this  refusal 
made  it  also  apparently  hopeless  to  attempt  to  get  within 

the  Imperial  Palaces  in  or  near  Peking.    "  Red  tape  "  exists 

137 


CHINA:    ITS    MARVEL  AND    MYSTERY 

in  China,  as  in  our  own  country ;  and  during  the  next  few 
weeks  I  gave  much  thought  as  to  how  I  was  to  untie 
that  piece  of  red  tape  which  kept  a  harmless  artist  from 
sketching,  and  showing  to  those  at  home,  his  ideas  of  the 
beauties  of  Chinese  Imperial  homes.  I  felt  that  to  show 
them  my  intentions  were  solely  artistic  was  my  only  way. 
Meantime  I  had  Peking  to  levy  for  subjects  for  my  pencil 
and  brush,  and  a  rich  field  it  is  ;  none  finer  have  I  seen  ; 
and  at  this  time  of  the  year,  October,  the  weather  is  the 
most  pleasant  and  reliable. 

One  of  the  first  notable  places  I  determined  to  paint 
was  the  Temple  of  Heaven.  The  entrance  to  this  place  is 
quite  easy  for  a  European — it  simply  means  a  ten-cent 
payment  at  each  of  the  gates.  The  ordinary  tourist  who 
is  going  to  see  the  many  temples,  all  appertaining  to  the 
Temple  of  Heaven,  has  many  payments  to  make. 

The  entrance  to  the  Temple  of  Heaven  is  about  two 

miles  out  in  the  Chinese  city.     I   made   the  journey   in 

rickshas,  one  for  myself  and  one  for  my  boy — a  new  boy, 

by  the  way,  lent  to  me  for  the  time  by  one  of  my  friends 

in    Tientsin.      The    boy    carried    most    of    my   working 

materials.     Leaving  the  hotel  we  crossed  the  canal,  passed 

the  American  Legation,  and  skirting  the  great  entrance  to 

the  Imperial  Palaces,  went  out  under  the  imposing  Chien- 

Men  on  to  and  over  the  beautiful  marble  bridge,  through 

a  great  pailau,  and  away  out   to  the   long,  straight,  and 

wide  road   lined  on   either  side  by  stalls  and  booths  of 
138 


FACSIMILE   OF    PASSPORT 


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To  face  p.  138. 


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§ 


PEKING:  TEMPLE   OF   HEAVEN 

all  kinds,  with  the  shops  behind  these.  The  first  part 
of  this  road  is  new  macadam  and  good,  but  some  distance 
out  one  comes  to  another  marble  bridge  of  very  pretty 
design.  This  we  do  not  cross,  but  went  to  one  side  and 
over  a  commonplace  timber  bridge,  the  marble  bridge 
being  kept  for  Imperial  use.  Then  we  began  to  bump 
along  the  old  paved  road.  A  little  of  this  goes  a  long 
way ;  but  soon  we  turned  off  to  the  left,  and  reached  the 
outer  gate  in  the  wall  surrounding  the  grounds,  where  the 
greatest  of  China's  great  temples  is  placed. 

Inside  the  gate,  having  duly  paid  my  ten  cents  (about 
twopence),  I  found  myself  in  what  was  like  a  large  English 
park,  with  stretches  of  grass  and  great  trees,  and  groups 
of  black  cattle  which  are  bred  and  kept  here  for  sacrificial 
purposes  ;  they  are  rather  like  '*  Black  Angus  "  cattle.  On 
through  this  park  we  sped  in  our  rickshas  till  we  reached 
another  high  wall,  with  the  usual  three  gates,  and  from 
here  we  had  to  walk. 

Another  ten  cents,  and  we  enter,  by  a  small  side  gate, 

more  park  land ;  but  we  see  signs  of  buildings,  and  soon 

come  to  another  wall  with  more  gates ;   ten  cents  again, 

and  we  enter,  to  find  ourselves  in  full  view  of  the  Temple 

of  the  Year.     This  great  building  is  circular  and  stands 

high,  with  terraces  and  balustrades  of  marble,  all  carved 

and  sculptured  with  designs  of  dragons,  fish,  and  all  the 

mythical  creatures  in  which  these  mystical  people  delight. 

The  architectural  forms  here  show,  as  in  all  buildings 

139 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

in  China — religious,  Imperial,  and  domestic — that  the 
number  three,  or  a  multiple  of  it,  is  of  great  moment,  a 
sacred  sign.  There  are  three  of  these  marble  terraces, 
rising  one  above  the  other ;  and  in  the  third  is  the  huge 
temple  itself. 

The  building  is  carried  and  held  by  the  usual  great 
coloured  pillars,  on  which  rests  the  triple  roof,  covered  with 
glazed  tiles  of  a  wonderful  blue;  to  see  the  play  of  the 
blazing  sunlight  on  those  shining  blue  tiles  and  red 
painted  woodwork,  and  on  the  gleaming  marble  balus- 
trades and  terraces,  is  one  of  the  grandest  sights  in  the 
world. 

From  this  I  made  my  way  to  other  temples  of  various 
forms,  all  showing  great  beauty.  There  was  one  with  a 
green-tiled  roof  which,  for  the  quality  of  the  colour,  was 
very  remarkable. 

From  the  Temple  of  the  Year  there  is  a  series  of  temples, 

each  used  by  the  Emperor  when  he  comes  here  to  perform 

the  sacred  rites  of  his  office.     The  last  of  all  the  covered 

buildings    is    the    Emperor's    robing    temple.      It   is    of 

exquisite  form  and  colour,  the  same  wondrous  blue  tiles 

being  used.     It  is  from  this  temple  that  he  comes  to  the 

great  open-air  sacrificial  altar.     The  form  of  this  altar  is 

circular ;  it  is  enclosed  within  two  circular  walls  of  brick, 

plastered  and  painted  red,  and  covered  with  blue  tiles  and 

pierced  at  regular  intervals  by  groups  of  gateways,  three  in 

each  group,  each  with  tall  and  massive  but  simple  pailaus. 
140 


I 

I 


PEKING:    THE    EMPEROR'S    ROBING 
TEMPLE,    IN    THE    TEMPLE    OF    HEAVEN 


PEKING:  TEMPLE   OF   HEAVEN 

The  altar  is  of  white  marble,  and  rises  in  three  terraces 
to  the  centre  and  topmost,  in  the  middle  of  which  is  set 
up  a  plain  rough  stone,  looked  on  by  the  Chinese  as 
holding  the  position  of  the  centre  of  the  universe. 

In  the  outer  enclosures  can  be  seen  the  buildings  on 
which  the  actual  burnt-offerings  or  sacrifice  of  the  black 
cattle  is  made. 

My  description  of  this,  the  most  beautiful  and  im- 
pressive example  of  architecture  in  existence,  is  lamentably 
wanting ;  no  words  of  mine  can  describe  it.  But  let  any 
one  stand,  say,  in  the  courtyard  in  front  of  the  Emperor's 
robing  temple,  and  look  over  this  scene,  and  I  think  they 
must  feel  impressed.  First  you  see  the  tall  stone  gate- 
ways, beautiful  in  simplicity  and  ruggedness,  and  serving 
to  show  up  by  contrast  the  more  finished  beauty  of  the 
wonderfully  designed,  carved,  and  sculptured  marble  of  the 
terraced  altar,  with  the  most  gorgeous  roof  of  all  overhead, 
the  blue  sky,  and  the  sun  sending  down  his  rays  of  gleam- 
ing light  on  these  old  terraces,  casting  shadows  from  the 
pillared  balustrading,  showing  the  cunning  work  on  the 
steps,  and  toning  and  beautifying  the  whole  into  the 
most  beautiful  and  impressive  picture  I  have  ever 
looked  upon. 

What  would  I  not  give  to  see  this  place  at  the  time 

when  those  mysterious   rites  of  worship  are   carried   out 

in  all  the  barbaric  splendours  of  the  country? 

To    describe    the    many    other    temples    within     this 

141 


CHINA:   ITS    MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

lovely  park  would  be  superfluous,  because  the  lesser 
temples  are  all  much  alike,  and  I  fear  that  all  suffer  by 
comparison  with  the  greater  one. 

Many  days  did  I  spend  in  this  quiet  place,  working 
in  great  comfort,  taking  my  lunch  with  me,  enjoying 
the  crisp  sunlight  of  autumn,  occasionally  seeing  a 
foreign  visitor  being  shown  round ;  whilst  almost  my 
only  onlookers  were  the  few  coolies  employed  to  pull 
up  some  of  the  weeds  in  the  courtyards.  I  say  some, 
because  they  seemed  purposely  to  leave  many,  and  most 
of  their  time  was  spent  in  talking  to  each  other. 

I  have  remarked  how  easy  it  is  for  foreigners  to 
obtain  entrance  to  this,  the  most  sacred  place  in  China. 
It  was  not  so  before  1900,  when  our  troops  took,  and 
encamped  in,  the  park  to  which  they  have  ever  since 
exercised  the  right  of  entry.  One  day  when  I  was 
sitting  peacefully  at  work  in  one  of  the  outer  rings  of 
the  altar,  I  heard  the  steady  tramp  of  many  booted  feet ; 
and  to  my  surprise,  through  the  gateways  of  the  sur- 
rounding walls  (the  very  gateway  which  would  be  used 
by  the  Emperor),  came  a  company  of  the  Cameron 
Highlanders.  Right  through  and  up  the  steps  they 
marched,  and  stood  round  admiring  the  view  from  the 
*'  Centre  of  the  Universe." 

I    understand    that    very    few    Chinese    except    high 

officials  have  ever  seen   this   place,  it   being   difficult   for 

them    to    obtain   admission,    and    I    believe    no   Chinese 
142 


PEKING:   THE  TEMPLE  OF  HEAVEN,  THE 
SACRIFICIAL  ALTAR 

The  Emperor's  way  from  his  Robing  Temple — behind  the 
spectator — is  through  the  central  gateway  and  up  the  steps  to  the 
sacrificial  altar  of  the  Temple  ("  The  centre  of  the  universe  "). 


PEKING:  TEMPLE   OF   HEAVEN 

women  are  ever  allowed  within  the  walls.  A  foreigner, 
an  official  of  high  rank  in  the  Chinese  Service,  drove 
out  with  his  wife  to  visit  this  place,  having  with  them 
a  guest,  a  young  Chinese  lady.  She  was  refused  ad- 
mission, and  nothing  would  induce  the  gatekeeper  to 
allow  her  within ;  so  my  friends,  who  would  not  go 
without  her,  returned  to  Peking  without  seeing  the 
temples. 

Although  the  ordinary  Chinaman  is  not  allowed 
entrance,  there  is  no  objection  made  to  the  native 
servant  of  a  foreigner :  my  boy  was  with  me  always, 
and  was  in  great  glee  at  seeing  such  a  place. 

From  Martin's  "  Lore  of  Cathay  "  :  "  When  taxed  with 
ingratitude,  in  neglecting  to  honour  that  Being  on  whom 
they  depend  for  existence,  the  Chinese  uniformly  reply, 
*  It  is  not  ingratitude,  but  reverence,  that  prevents  our 
worship.  He  is  too  great  for  us  to  worship.  None 
but  the  Emperor  is  worthy  to  lay  an  offering  on  the 
altar  of  Heaven/  In  conformity  with  this  sentiment 
the  Emperor,  as  the  high-priest  and  mediator  of-  his 
people,  celebrates  in  Peking  the  worship  of  Heaven 
with  imposing  ceremonies. 

"Within  the  gates  of  the  southern  division  of  the 
capital,  and  surrounded  by  a  sacred  grove,  so  extensive 
that  the  silence  of  its  deep  shade  is  never  broken  by 
the  noises  of  the  busy  world,  stands  the  Temple  of 
Heaven. 

143 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

*'  It  consists  of  a  single  tower,  whose  tiling  of  resplen- 
dent azure  is  intended  to  represent  the  form  and  colour  of 
the  aerial  vault. 

"  It  contains  no  image,  and  the  solemn  rites  are  not 
performed  within  the  tower,  but  on  a  marble  altar  which 
stands  before  it ;  a  bullock  is  offered  once  a  year  as  a  burnt 
sacrifice  while  the  Master  of  the  Empire  prostrates  himself 
in  adoration  of  the  Spirit  of  the  Universe. 

"  This  is  the  high  place  of  Chinese  devotion,  and  the 
thoughtful  visitor  feels  that  he  ought  to  tread  its  courts 
with  unsandalled  feet. 

*'  Dr.  Legge,  the  distinguished  translator  of  the  Chinese 
classics,  visiting  Peking  (some  years  after  this  was  written), 
actually  '  put  his  shoes  from  off  his  feet '  before  ascending 
the  steps  of  the  great  altar.  Yet,  in  1900,  this  sacred  spot 
was  converted  into  a  barracks  for  British  troops ! 

"  For  no  vulgar  idolatry  has  entered  here ;  this  moun- 
tain top  still  stands  above  the  waves  of  corruption,  and  on 
this  solitary  altar  there  still  rests  a  faint  ray  of  the  primeval 
faith. 

''The  tablet,  which  represents  the  invisible  Deity,  is 
inscribed  with  the  name  of  Shang  Li,  the  Supreme  Ruler ! 
and  as  we  contemplate  the  majesty  of  the  empire  prostrate 
before  it,  while  the  smoke  ascends  from  his  burning  sacri- 
fice, our  thoughts  are  irresistibly  carried  back  to  the  time 
when  the  King  of  Salem  officiated  as  '  Priest  of  the  Most 

High  God.' 
144 


CHAPTER  XXI 
THE  LAMA  TEMPLE 

Description  —  The  Noise  House  —  Lama  Students  —  Trouble  with  One  —  Friend- 
ship with  the  Priests — Open-air  Worship — A  Priest  uses  his  Beads — 
A  Lesson  in  Perspective — The  Great  Buddha — Dress  of  the  Lamas. 

THE  Lama  group  of  temples  is  in  the  north-east 
corner  of  the  Tartar  city,  and  was  built  as  an 
Imperial  Palace  by  the  son  of  the  famous  Kang- 
hi.  The  entrance  is  at  the  northern  end  of  the  Hata- 
Men  street.  There  is  a  fine  specimen  of  a  highly  de- 
corated pailau  in  front  of  the  first  gateway.  Neither  the 
priests  nor  students  bear  a  good  character.  I  was  told 
they  were  of  the  lowest,  and  can  well  believe  it ;  but 
I  did  not  concern  myself  with  this,  my  thoughts  being 
directed  to  the  question  whether  they  would  allow  me 
to  work  in  peace.  Passing  in  by  the  third  gateway,  I 
found  myself  in  a  large  paved  courtyard  surrounded  by 
a  high  red  wall  roofed  with  yellow  tiles.  In  front  of 
me  was  a  yellow-roofed  temple  raised  from  the  courtyard 
and  reached  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  at  each  end  of 
which  were  gigantic  and  most  beautifully  wrought  bronze 
lions.  The  Lamas,  being  under  direct  Imperial  patron- 
age, use  the  Imperial  yellow. 

K  145 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

In  each  corner  of  this  courtyard  is  a  double-roofed 
sexagonal  building  covering  memorial  tablets.  The  one 
on  the  right,  near  the  gate,  is  used  as  a  sort  of  drum 
tower.  I  might  more  correctly  describe  it  as  a  noise 
house.  Here  are  not  only  drums,  but  other  instruments 
on  which,  at  stated  hours,  the  most  hideous  noises  are 
made,  to  call  or  direct  the  students  to  the  various 
prayers  and  ceremonies.  There  is  also  a  sort  of  horn 
which,  blown  by  the  strong-lunged  Lama  gatekeeper, 
emits  a  horrible  roar.  It  brought  into  this  courtyard 
swarms  of  yellow-robed  students,  boys  in  ages  ranging 
from  about  twelve  or  fourteen  to  about  twenty.  They 
added    to   the    noise. 

When    I  was  seen  to  put  up  my  easel,  and  on  it  a 

sheet   of  white   board,  there   was   a   rush   made   for   me. 

They  crowded  up  so  close  as  almost  to  overwhelm  me, 

and  at   first  refused   to  move  at  all.     I   told  my  boy  to 

drive  them  back  ;  but  he  was  too  frightened   to  do  that, 

and,  when    I    told    him   to   speak   to   them,  he  made  the 

excuse   that    they    "  no   b'long   Chinese,   all    same    Lama 

man."      I    had,   therefore,    to    put    my    shoulder    to,  and 

managed   to  push   them   back  and  make  a  small   circle ; 

but  they  did  not  all   like  this.     Fortunately  for  me,  that 

horn  roared   again,  and    in  a  moment   I  was  left.     They 

rushed  off  towards  the  centre  of  the  courtyard.     Priests, 

apparently    their    teachers,    had     arrived.      The    youths 

divided   into  groups,  each  with  a  teacher  who  proceeded 
146 


PAILAU   IN    THE   LAMA   TEMPLE,  PEKING 


THE   LAMA  TEMPLE 

to  harangue  them.  As  there  were  at  least  six  or  eight 
groups,  and  the  teachers  were  all  lecturing  at  once,  the 
students  joining  in  at  times,  it  was  a  perfect  Babel  of 
sound,  and  I  began  to  wonder  how  long  I  could  work 
in  such  a  din.  But  many  months'  work  throughout 
China  had  impressed  on  me  the  value  of  patience. 
The  noisy  scene  was  one  of  splendid  barbaric  beauty. 
The  wide  paved  courtyard,  with  fine  trees  dotted  about 
at  either  side — the  great  yellow-roofed  temple,  with  wide 
steps  leading  up  to  it — the  lesser  buildings  at  the  cor- 
ners— made  a  most  impressive  setting  for  the  groups  of 
yellow-robed  students  gathered  in  groups  first,  and  then, 
at  a  fresh  signal,  all  joining  in  one  central  group  round 
a  priest  and  kneeling  on  the  stone  pavement,  with  the 
brilliant  sunlight  over  all.  A  tree  or  bit  of  building 
cast  a  shadow  here,  and  emphasised  the  light  there, 
showed  up  the  newer  yellow  robe  against  the  older,  dis- 
coloured one,  glinted  on  a  bit  of  red  under-dress  or  blue 
sock.  I  was  indeed  fortunate  to  see  such  a  ceremony 
on  my  first  visit  at  the  Lama  Temple.  This  open-air 
worship  and  lecture  takes  place  once  a  month,  and  I 
took  care  to  be  present  on  subsequent  occasions,  by 
which  time  I  was  not  so  much  an  object  of  curiosity 
to  the  Lamas.  During  my  first  day  or  two  at  this  place 
I  had  considerable  difficulty  with  some  of  the  students. 
They  would  stand  right   in  my  view,  and  were  not  very 

ready  to  move  when   asked.      One  day  a   biggish  youth 

147 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

persistently  stood  blocking  my  view.  I  signed  to  him 
to  move  ;  but  he  took  no  notice.  I  told  my  boy  to  tell 
him  he  was  in  my  way,  and  to  move  to  one  side.  I 
saw  him  answer  my  boy,  but  still  he  did  not  move. 
My  boy  reluctantly  told  me,  "  He  talkee  this  b'long  he, 
no'  b'long  you."  I  quietly  laid  down  my  palette;  and, 
with  a  sudden  movement,  I  had  him  by  the  scruff  of  the 
neck,  and  ran  him  across  the  courtyard  and  out  of  the 
gate.  I  walked  quietly  back  and  went  on  with  my  work, 
remarking  to  my  boy,  **  Now  b'long  my."  The  crowd 
laughed,  taking  it  all  as  a  huge  joke. 

By  this  time  I  may  say  I  had  quite  made  friends  with 
some  of  the  priests,  who  had  put  the  students  back  from 
obstructing  my  view.  A  day  or  two  after  this,  sitting  in 
the  courtyard  with  the  usual  crowd,  there  was  a  sudden 
crash  behind  me  and  a  yell  from  some  of  my  onlookers ; 
but  it  was  only  fear.  A  brick  had  been  heaved  over  the 
wall — at  me,  I  suppose — but  it  did  no  harm.  Another  day, 
either  the  same  or  another  young  Lama  (I  had  not  taken 
enough  notice  to  distinguish)  again  persisted  in  standing  in 
front  of  me,  and  I  was,  through  my  boy,  remonstrating, 
when  a  priest  saw  the  trouble ;  without  a  moment's  hesita- 
tion he  plucked  off  his  beads  (great,  heavy  things,  often 
carried  over  the  left  ear),  and  going  up  to  the  youth 
started  to  belabour  him  over  his  shaven  head  with  them ; 
and  on  the  youth  going  off,  followed  him  up  and  thrashed 

him  right  round  the  courtyard.     Coming  back  to  me,  he 
148 


PEKING:    THE    LAMA    TEMPLE 

Open-air  worship  by  Lamas  at  certain  periods  of  the  moon. 
The  yellow  roof  and  red  walls  betoken  Imperial  patronage. 


THE   LAMA  TEMPLE 

smiled  broadly,  and  told  my  boy  to  tell  me,  if  I  was  bothered 
again,  I  was  to  thrash  my  tormenters  well ;  but  his  punish- 
ment sufficed — I  had  no  more  trouble  with  them. 

I  had  one  day  a  most  amusing  argument,  without  words, 
with  one  of  the  priests.  I  noticed  he  was  talking  to  my 
boy  and  others,  and  pointing  to  my  picture  and  to  the 
subject.  I  found  that  he  said,  as  the  boy  put  it  to  me, 
" Your  picture  no  proper."  "Why?"  said  L  The  picture 
was  the  accompanying  illustration.  There  are  three  doors 
to  the  temple,  and  in  front  of  the  centre  one,  on  the  stone 
courtyard,  is  a  rough  wooden  chair  (it  is  hidden  by  the 
figures  in  my  picture)  on  which,  at  certain  ceremonies,  the 
living  Buddha  of  this  temple  would  sit.  From  my  point 
of  vision  that  chair  appeared  to  be  under  the  farthest  west 
door  (in  reality  it  is  in  front  of  the  centre  door);  and,  as  the 
priest  knew  it  was  in  the  centre,  he  said  I  was  wrong.  I 
pulled  him  forward  and  held  a  pencil  up  in  front  of  his 
nose,  and  told  my  boy  to  tell  him  to  look  past  that  and  see 
where  the  chair  came  ;  then  I  walked  him  along  till  in  front 
of  the  central  door,  and  again  made  him  look  past  the 
pencil,  and  then  farther  still ;  this  time  he  found  the  chair 
was  under  the  eastern  door ;  then  back  to  my  picture,  and 
again  showed  him  how  it  was  I  got  it  where  it  appeared  to 
me.  He  then  understood,  and  most  solemnly  kowtowed 
to  me,  and  lectured  and  demonstrated  to  the  crowd  all 
about  it.  For  many  days  this  same  priest  would  bring 
others  to  show  them  the  wonders  of  perspective  drawing 

K  2  149 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

as  shown  to  him  by  a  barbarian  artist ;  and  I  think  this 
little  incident  helped  to  give  me  greater  comfort  and  quiet 
for  my  work  in  this  temple,  where,  with  the  little  exception 
mentioned,  I  had  a  quiet  time  and  was  always  greeted 
smilingly. 

I  frequently  took  my  lunch  here,  and  was  watched  most 
curiously  by  the  crowd — Lamas,  coolies,  and  occasionally 
Mongolians — many  of  whom,  in  the  train  of  the  Dalai 
Lama,  were  lodged  at  this  temple. 

In  one  of  the  temples  in  this  lamaserai  is  the  enormous 
Buddha,  seventy  feet  high ;  and,  going  up  the  staircase  to 
look  on  the  awful  countenance  of  this  image,  one  sees  the 
big  prayer-wheels.  A  simple  method  of  getting  in  plenty 
of  prayer ! 

It  is  better  to  look  out  from  the  balcony  over  those 
beautiful  roofs,  which  make  one  wonder  how  the  people 
who  conceive  and  execute  such  beautiful  things  can  yet 
make  their  gods  so  hideously,  fearsomely  ugly.  There  is, 
I  believe,  a  rule  that  a  building  once  inhabited  by  an 
emperor  must,  on  his  ascending  the  throne,  become  a 
temple.  As  emperor  he  is  the  Son  of  Heaven,  and 
therefore  no  mortal  can  follow  him  and  dwell  in  it.  It 
seems  to  me  that  must  mean  a  great  multiplication  of 
temples.  I  have  heard  and  read  that  there  are  from 
two  to  three  thousand  Lamas  here ;  certainly  the  number 
is  large. 

Their  dress  is  most  distinctive — a  brilliant  yellow  robe, 

•    150 


THE   LAMA  TEMPLE 

with  just  inside  the  long  wide  sleeves  a  bit  of  blue  showing, 
and  the  same  colour  again  on  their  shoes ;  with  dark  red 
under-robe,  and  an  enormous  yellow  hat,  shaped  helmet 
fashion,  the  ridge  of  it  feathered.  The  form  is  supposed 
to  represent  a  sacred  mountain  in  Tibet. 


151 


CHAPTER   XXII 

CONFUCIAN  TEMPLE   AND  HALL   OF  CLASSICS 

The  "Stone  Drums"— "The  Spirits'  Staircase  "—The  Hall  of  the  Classics— The 
Porcelain  Pailau — The  Yellow  Temple. 

WITHIN  a  stone's  throw  of  the  Lama  Temple 
is  that  of  Confucius,  and  adjoining  it  The 
Hall  of  the  Classics.  Both  are  now  almost 
silent  memories  of  the  past.  A  few  priests  are  to  be 
seen  at  the  first,  which  is  much  like  other  temples  to 
the  great  teacher,  whose  word  is  law  even  now  after  more 
than  two  thousand  years.  In  the  courtyard  are  very  fine 
old  cypress  trees,  over  a  thousand  years  old,  I  was  told. 
Here  also  are  the  ten  "  stone  drums,"  in  two  rows  of 
five  stones  in  each  row,  said  to  be  of  unknown  antiquity. 

A  thing  to  marvel  over  and  admire  is  the  extraordinarily 
beautiful  "spirits'  staircase"  of  white  marble,  with  steps 
on  either  side  of  a  great  sculptured  slab  of  marble,  covered 
with  a  mass  of  beautiful  carving — the  dragon,  of  course, 
predominant. 

The    Hall    of    the   Classics   is   still    more  quiet    and 

neglected ;    one    has    to    bang    loudly  on    the    gates    to 

make   a   dilatory   attendant   open   them   and    receive    his 

fee,   and   allow  you   to   enter.      Weed-grown   and    silent 
152 


PEKING:    PORCELAIN    PAILAU    AT    THE 
HALL   OF    THE    CLASSICS 

Erected  by  Chien  Lung,  the  builder  of  the  Summer  Palace. 


CONFUCIAN   TEMPLE   &    HALL  OF  CLASSICS 

indeed  is  this  place,  and  perhaps  it  is  this  very  silence, 
so  rare  in  China,  which  made  me  think  it  such  a  delight- 
ful place.  Here  I  could  sit  for  hours  with  not  a  soul  to 
bother  me ;  and  after  the  Lama  Temple,  with  its  crowds 
of  Lamas  and  others  always  round  me,  this  peace  was 
very  grateful.  The  hall  itself  is  a  fine  building,  raised 
on  marble  terraces  and  steps,  with  an  old  marble-balus- 
traded  pond  all  round,  lotus-grown  and  still,  which  is 
crossed  by  marble  bridges.  The  woodwork  of  the 
windows  is  very  good  and  also  the  great  pillars  sup- 
porting the  double-eaved  roof,  the  whole  surmounted  by 
a  great  gilt  ball,  the  gold  of  which  still  glitters  brightly 
in  the  sun. 

All  round  are  the  hundreds  of  stone  tablets  on  which 
is  engraved  the  text  of  the  Nine  Classics.  But  a  few 
yards  inside  the  entrance-gate  is  a  large  porcelain  pailau, 
the  three  arches  of  which  are  lined  with  white  marble ; 
and  to  the  green  and  yellow  of  the  upper  part  it  is  covered 
with  ornate  roofs  of  yellow  tiles,  and  is  altogether  a  very 
gorgeous  piece  of  work,  somewhat  similar  to  the  one  by 
the  Lotus  Lake  in  the  Forbidden  City. 

Another  fine  group  of  buildings  is  the  Yellow  Temple, 
about  two  miles  outside  the  northern  wall.  At  the 
time  of  my  visit,  October  1908,  the  Dalai  Lama  —  the 
pope  of  Lamaism  and  nominal  ruler  of  Tibet — was  lodged 
here,  so  that  only  part  of  the  buildings  could  be  seen, 
as  his  privacy  was  very  strictly  observed ;  but  we  visited 

^S3 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

the  white  -  marble  monument  erected  by  the  Emperor 
Chien-lung  over  the  clothes  of  the  Teshu  Lama  who, 
while  on  a  mission  to  Peking,  died  of  smallpox,  his 
body  being  sent  back  to  Tibet.  This  is  a  very  ornate 
building,  \\ith  a  somewhat  semi-Indian  character,  rather 
like  one  built  by  the  same  Emperor  at  the  Summer  Palace. 
It  is  surrounded  by  very  fine  fir  trees,  and  seems  to  attract 
many  visitors,  native  and  foreign.  I  was,  however,  more 
attracted  to  the  eastern  portion  of  this  temple — much 
damaged  in  the  Boxer  troubles,  but  grand  in  its  barbaric 
splendour  of  marble  staircases  and  wide  terraces,  leading 
to  the  great  halls,  placed  in  spacious  court)^ards ;  the 
gorgeous  yellow  roofs  having  wonderful  turned-up  eaves 
that  showed  the  timber-work  beneath. 

I  saw  a  procession  of  Lama  priests,  in  yellow  vestments, 
coming  out  of  one  temple,  quietly  walking  along  the  paved 
courtyard,  and  then  ascending  the  grand  staircase  and 
disappearing  into  the  great  hall ;  w^hence  shortly  after 
issued  sounds  of  worship,  a  melancholy  chant,  then  the 
beat  of  a  drum  and  other  weird  sounds. 

The  Yellow  Temple,  where  the  Dalai  Lama  and  his 

followers   were   lodged,   was   built  as   a   lodging   for  the 

emissaries   from    Tibet  when    on    missions   from    Tibet ; 

and  in  the  outer  portion  of  the  eastern  end  were  camped 

many  of  his   followers.      What  wonderfully  picturesque 

figures  they  are !     There  they  were,  mingled  among  their 

ponies,  tents,  and  booths,  Chinese  hawkers  from  Peking 
154 


THE   YELLOW   TEMPLE,    NEAR    PEKING 


CONFUCIAN   TEMPLE   &   HALL   OF  CLASSICS 

bargaining  with  them ;  the  Tibetans  eager  to  buy  the 
various  Chinese  and  Western  commodities,  the  Chinese 
as  eager  to  get  the  many  little  ornaments  and  curios  which 
the  Tibetans  carried  for  sale  or  wore  as  ornaments.  I 
succeeded  in  getting  some  strings  of  turquoise  beads  of 
beautiful  colour. 

There  were  also  Mongolian  horse-dealers,  eager  to  offer 
us  ponies,  which  looked  sound  though  rough  little  animals. 

During  the  stay  of  the  Dalai  Lama  here,  great  numbers 
of  Mongols  came  in  to  pay  their  reverence  to  him,  and  on 
the  plain  between  the  temple  and  the  city  many  of  them 
were  to  be  seen,  men  and  women,  riding  at  great  speed ; 
splendid  riders  they  are,  weird  figures  to  meet.  The 
women  wear  quantities  of  beads,  and  quaintly  worked 
silver  ornaments  on  their  heads.  At  this  time  I  often 
met  a  squad  of  these  wild-looking  people  in  the  streets 
of  the  city ;  they  rode  along  noisily  and  seemed  to  treat 
the  quiet  citizens  with  contempt,  and  the  citizens  did  not 
seem  over  anxious  to  have  much  to  do  with  them. 


^SS 


CHAPTER   XXIII 

THE   MING  TOMBS  AND  NANKOW  PASS 

Journey — A  Comfortable  Inn — Donkey-riding  to  the  Ming  Tombs — The  First  Pai- 
lau— Monoliths  by  the  "  Sacred  Way  "—Ruined  Bridges— The  Great  Hall— 
The  Tomb — The  Traffic — The  Gateway  to  MongoUa. 

AS  they  are  now  comparatively  easy  to  reach  by  rail 

/\      from  the  Peking-Kalgan  Railway  station,  outside 

j[     \^  the    gate,   the   famous    pass    and    Ming    Tombs 

should  not  be  missed  by  any  visitor  to  Peking.     The  drive 

to  the  station  is  rather  rough,  but  the  rail  journey  is  good 

and  the  country  full  of  interest.     It  is  mostly  over  a  vast 

plain,  and  on  the  horizon  one  can  already  see  the  outline  of 

the   mountain  ranges  dividing  China  and  Mongolia,  the 

natural   barrier  which   was    not   thought  enough   by   the 

builders  of  the  Great  Wall.     Less  than  two  hours  brought 

us  (I  made  this  journey  with  friends)  to  the   station   of 

Nankow,  about  a  mile  from  the  village,  and  at  the  entrance 

of  the  pass.     The  pass  is  the  natural  gateway  from  north 

to  south,  and  through  it  has  passed  for  centuries  the  traffic 

of  nations,  besides  hordes  of  northern  warriors  who  would 

in  past  times  use  this  as  their  means  of  descent  on  the  rich 

country  around  Peking. 

Near  the  station  is  a  small  hotel,  clean  and  comfortable, 
156 


THE   MING  TOMBS  AND   NANKOW  PASS 

run  by  Chinese,  with  fair  cooking  of  foreign  food  ;  we  made 
this  headquarters  for  our  short  stay.  We  at  once  procured 
donkeys  to  take  us  to  the  Ming  Tombs,  and  with  little 
delay  made  a  start.  A  ride  of  a  few  miles,  fording  some 
small  rivers  and  passing  one  or  two  villages,  brought  us 
within  sight  of  the  first  sign  of  the  tombs  of  the  old 
dynasty.  And  now  I  began  to  see  that,  even  when  this 
journey  has  to  be  made  by  riding  all  the  way  from  the 
capital,  it  was  well  worth  the  trouble. 

What  triumph  of  architecture  is  this  looming  up  on 
the  horizon?  Gradually  we  draw  near  and  can  see 
more  clearly.  It  is  a  good  beginning  to  the  old  sacred 
road  to  the  tombs.  A  fine  arched  pailau,  white  marble 
and  of  grand  proportions,  standing  solitary  in  this 
rugged  country,  makes  one  think  of  the  great  past  and 
the  dynasty  which  ruled  this  mighty  empire.  I  felt  I 
was  indeed  approaching  a  fitting  resting-place  for  the 
Imperial  dead.  This  glorious  piece  of  building  is  in 
itself  memorial  enough ;  but,  though  so  great,  it  is  only 
the  first  though  the  finest  of  the  many  wonders  of  the 
approach. 

Going  close  up  to  examine  the  work,  I  found  a  flock 
of  sheep  and  goats  browsing  peacefully  in  care  of  a 
shepherd.  The  shepherd,  I  suppose,  is  so  accustomed 
to  this  grand  work  of  art  he  takes  no  notice  of  it,  and 
would  probably  think  nothing  of  using  a  bit  of  it,  could 
he  get  it,  for  other  purposes. 

157 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

What  beautiful  design  is  here,  what  masterly  skill, 
what  lovely  carving!  It  is  a  masterpiece  among  the 
world's  choicest  possessions. 

The  pailau  forms  the  entrance  to  the  long  straight 
road  across  the  level  piece  of  country  leading  to  the 
tombs.  It  is  now  little  more  than  a  rough  track,  the 
old  paving-stones  being  broken  and  turned  up,  grass 
and  weed-grown,  and  decay  showing  at  every  step. 

A  little  distance  on  we  saw  a  red-walled  gate-house, 
with  tall  and  imposing  marble  pillars  on  either  side, 
having  wing-like  projections  at  the  top  and  carved 
dragons  climbing  up  and  round  them.  Passing  through 
the  gateway,  we  begin  to  see  the  marvellous  line  of 
grotesque  sculptures  which  line  this  holy  way.  They 
are  wrought  in  marble  and  of  immense  size.  How,  I 
wonder,  were  they  brought  there?  But  I  am  astonished 
at  nothing  the  Chinese  do ;  they  are  past-masters  of 
craft,  and  the  mere  moving  of  great  weights  would  not 
seriously  trouble  them. 

In  this  wonderful  procession  are  representations  of  men 
and  beasts,  and  great  stone  monoliths  and  figures  in  old- 
time  armour ;  other  figures  seem  to  wear  priestly  robes. 
Of  the  animals,  camels  and  elephants  were  most  remark- 
able, the  latter  being  very  realistic.  Beyond  these  weird 
watchers  of  the  dead  rises  a  triple  set  of  pailaus,  not  so 
grand,  but  rugged  and  impressive.     The  wide  valley  is  now 

narrowing  slightly,  and  we  approach  the  hills,  on  the  slopes 
158 


THE   MING  TOMBS  AND   NANKOW  PASS 

of  which   are   the   actual   tombs — thirteen   in   number,    I 
think. 

What  wonderful  inspiration  made  those  men  of  old 
choose  such  a  site  for  their  building-place,  what  brain 
conceived  this  truly  Imperial  approach? 

These  Ming  Emperors  must  have  had  the  souls  of 
artists,  whatever  the  other  side  to  their  character.  They 
must  have  had  a  rare  sense  of  beauty,  judging  by  the  many 
beautiful  creations  of  their  time  still  to  be  seen  in  China — 
their  stately  houses  on  earth,  and  their  resting-places  in 
death.  Alas  !  that  the  present  rulers  of  China  do  not  wake 
and  recognise  the  wealth  of  beauty  they  possess  in  relics  of 
their  past,  and  take  some  steps  to  preserve  it  from  absolute 
ruin.  Here  are  the  magnificent  ruins  of  three  marble 
bridges  falling  to  pieces  from  sheer  neglect.  That 
mountain  torrent  may  at  times  be  strong;  but  the  wit  of 
man  built  those  beautiful  bridges,  and  surely  the  same 
wit  could  preserve  such  magnificent  monuments  of  the 
past. 

Having  with  care  crossed  this  waterway,  now  almost 
dry,  we  soon  reached  the  entrance  to  the  temples  by  the 
tombs.  There  are  many  tombs,  but  we  only  visited  one, 
that  of  Yung-ho,  gaining  entrance  after  much  banging  at 
the  great  gate,  which  was  opened  by  a  coolie  who  came 
from  a  persimmon-orchard  close  by.  We  inspected  the 
yellow-roofed  temples,  and  passed  through  them  to  a  large 
courtyard   with   Cyprus  and   fir  trees.     On  each  side  are 

159 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

great  yellow  porcelain  shrines,  where  are  burnt  the  annual 
offerings. 

Then  we  come  to  the  enormous  hall,  supported  on 
wooden  pillars  of  great  size ;  they  are  made,  I  think,  of 
Burmese  teak.  What  a  stately  hall  this  is  !  Stepping  it, 
I  found  the  size  about  seventy  yards  long  by  about  half 
that  width  :  it  is  empty  and  forlorn-looking  now. 

Passing  through  this  hall  and  down  an  elegant  stair- 
way, one  reaches  another  courtyard  with  more  cypress  trees, 
and  beyond  that  is  the  solid  mass  of  masonry  which  con- 
tains the  entrance  to  the  tomb  itself.  In  front  stands  an 
altar-like  building,  on  which  are  carved  urns  for  joss-sticks. 

The  building  is  solidly  built  of  stone,  the  first  storey 
crenellated,  and  on  this  is  more  masonry  with  very 
beautiful  double  roofs  of  Imperial-yellow  tiles,  with  wide 
eaves  showing  fine  woodwork,  carved  and  decorated. 

A  fitting  guard-house  to  the  tomb  of  an  emperor! 
We  rested  a  while  in  the  quietness  of  this  courtyard,  and 
drank  tea  and  took  refreshment  we  had  brought  with  us ; 
then  prepared  for  our  ride  back  to  Nankow,  some  twelve 
or  more  miles. 

As  we  left  the  tomb  evening  was  drawing  on,  and  away 

over  the  plain  we  could  see  those  giant  stone  monsters 

marking  our  way,  and  beyond,  catching  the  gleams  of  the 

setting  sun,  I  could  discern  that  beautiful  pailau.     Perhaps 

it   was   the   poetry   of   evening  which    made  our  return 

journey  so  delightful.     Passing  over  those  ruined  bridges 
1 60 


THE   MING  TOMBS  AND   NANKOW  PASS 

and  wending  our  way  silently  and  slowly  between  the 
ranks  of  those  weird  monuments  of  the  past  impressed 
me  very  much,  and,  as  the  light  fell,  it  grew  more  and 
more  weird.  The  stillness  was  intense  and  almost  nerve- 
trying;  but  soon  we  left  the  "holy  way,"  and  turned  off 
to  find  a  nearer  pathway  to  Nankow.  As  the  sun  set  the 
moon  rose  to  light  us  on  our  way ;  and  by  that  light  we 
continued  our  journey  on  our  sturdy  little  steeds,  in  single 
file  along  narrow  tracks,  fording  streams.  At  the  end  of  a 
long  day's  work  came  the  welcome  from  our  Chinese  host 
at  the  inn.  What  wonders  I  had  seen  that  day !  I  felt 
I  had  lived  for  something. 

Next  morning  broke  bright  and  glorious.  What  a 
splendid  feeling  it  is  to  rise  from  sound  sleep,  in  a  strange 
place,  and  go  outside  wondering  what  one  will  see  !  On 
this  morning  I  went  out  to  gaze  away  far,  far  over  an  un- 
dulating plain,  extending  miles  away  to  and  beyond  Peking. 
I  could  see  distant  caravans  of  camels  wending  their  tor- 
tuous way  to  the  capital.  Nearer,  I  made  out  some  Peking 
carts  and  waited  for  them  to  approach,  and  found  that 
on  them  were  fixed,  flag-fashion,  paper  signs  of  the  names 
of  well-known  Tientsin  foreign  firms.  Where  does  not 
the  white  man  go  in  search  of  trade  and  gain  ?  These  carts 
were  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  Mongolian  country  dis- 
trict, with  representatives  sent  to  buy  or  sell  goods.  By 
exhibiting  the  names  of  the  foreign  firms  they  represent  they 

meet  with  more  consideration  than  they  might  otherwise  do. 

L  i6i 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

Nankow  Pass 

On  this  journey  we  added  to  our  train  an  extra  donkey, 
to  carry  our  lunch  and  tea-baskets,  &c.,  and  extra  wraps 
against  rain,  and  soon  got  under  weigh  towards  the  small 
walled  village  of  Nankow,  which  stands  on  the  western 
side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Pass,  and  is  overlooked  by  the 
paper-box-like  forts  built  high  up  on  the  mountain  sides. 
A  quaint  and  busy  little  village  is  Nankow,  Chinese  with 
a  distinct  leaven  of  the  Mongol  among  its  inhabitants,  on 
the  direct  highway  between  the  two  countries.  A  stopping- 
place,  it  is  full  of  people  and  animals  coming  and  going ; 
here  a  string  of  stately  camels,  there  a  herd  of  ponies, 
among  them  perhaps  a  potential  winner  of  a  Shanghai 
Derby ;  there  a  drove  of  goats,  and,  trundling  along  the 
rugged  uneven  pavement,  a  Peking  cart ;  what  frames  the 
riders  in  those  carts  must  have  to  stand  all  the  bumping ! 
Then  comes  a  mule-litter,  with  noisy  drivers,  and  amongst 
all  we  foreigners  riding  along  on  our  donkeys,  and  drivers 
picking  their  way  through  the  medley.  We  soon  got 
through  and  began  the  ascent  of  the  Pass. 

Below  us   rolls   the  turbulent   little   stream,  small   at 

present,   but   in   time   of  flood   doing  no   small  damage. 

Above  us,  on  the  left,  tower  the  mountains ;  and  across 

the  valley  are  more  mountains,  but  there  is  a  change  on 

that  side,  for  along  it  is  being  built  the  Peking-Kalgan 

Railway,  and,  as  far  as  we  could  judge,  built  well. 
162 


THE   MING  TOMBS   AND   NANKOW   PASS 

At  the  time  of  our  visit  Nankovv  was  the  limit  for 
passenger  traffic,  and  I  was  glad  indeed  that  we  could 
see  this  wonderful  road  in  all  the  glory  of  its  mixed  traffic. 
I  should  doubt  if  the  world  has  another  such  road.  Up 
and  down  this  road  for  centuries  this  mountain-pass  has 
been  the  trunk-way  between  China  and  Mongolia.  Of 
old,  down  this  pass  must  have  come  the  invading  hosts 
of  the  savage  and  warlike  Northerners ;  and  now,  to-day, 
it  can  be  traversed  by  rail,  and  all  too  soon  the  glory  of 
the  road  will  be  gone.  The  camel  and  the  mule  and  the 
ox  and  the  willing  little  donkey,  Peking  cart,  mule  litter, 
and  Sedan-chair  will  very  soon  be  mere  tradition,  gone 
for  ever.  This  makes  me  glad  that  I  saw  it  in  full  swing 
as  it  has  been  through  all  these  centuries.  Even  now 
the  railway  has  reached  the  Great  Wall  at  the  head  of 
the  Pass,  and  soon  the  iron  rails  will  take  command  here 
as  elsewhere,  and  gone  will  be  the  wonderful  medley  of 
traffic  on  this  old-world  way.  It  will  sink  into  the  silence 
of  a  country  road,  and  the  tourist  will  flash  by  in  a  train, 
and  catch  but  a  glimpse  of  the  grandeur  of  the  Pass,  and 
none  of  its  present  and  past  character.  The  big  flat 
paving-stones  have  deep  ruts  worn  in  them  by  the  con- 
stant traffic  of  rough  wheels.  Some  are  torn  up  altogether, 
leaving  holes  which  the  wheels  make  deeper  and  deeper, 
and,  according  to  the  weather,  are  filled  with  dust  or  mud. 

Great  rocks  seem  to  have  scattered  themselves  on  the 

surface ;  and  how  the  drivers  navigate  the  carts  round  and 

163 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

over  them  is  a  mystery.  I  have  seen  one  wheel  come 
right  on  a  big  stone  of  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches 
high ;  it  stops  a  moment,  and  as  the  mule  feels  the  cart 
pull  round,  he  gives  an  extra  pull  and  over  it  goes,  bump 
down  on  the  other  side.  The  camels  step  along  with 
their  stately  stride,  their  expression  saint-like,  as  if  asking 
you  to  notice  what  a  burden  is  theirs ;  they  carefully 
steer  round  all  obstructions,  as  do  the  clever  little 
donkeys. 

Soon  we  come  to  a  roadside  drinking-place,  surrounded 
by  animals  of  all  kinds,  waiting  their  turn  to  get  a 
refreshing  drink ;  beside  it,  a  sort  of  meadow  where 
camels  and  other  tired  beasts  of  burden  are  resting. 

Looking  back,  we  have  a  grand  view  down  the  Pass. 
Down  the  rough  mountain-side  comes  a  spur  of  the  Great 
Wall,  with  a  tower-like  watch-house  set,  sentinel-fashion, 
on  an  eminence.  Under  this  can  be  seen  a  bit  of  the 
town  of  Nankow.  In  the  valley  below  can  be  traced  the 
course  of  the  river,  winding  its  way  to  that  vast  plain 
which  has  a  never-ending  distance  merging  in  the  sky. 
The  road  winds  along,  twisting  and  turning  on  the  hill- 
side, and  the  groups  of  animals  and  of  people  can  be 
seen  away  far  off.  A  great  landscape  is  this,  worthy  of 
a  great  brush. 

On  we  go,  finding  fresh  interest  at  every  turn,  and 

come    to    an    unique    gateway  with   five-sided    archway. 

How  the  men  of  old  seemed  to  enjoy  carrying  out  little 
164 


THE   MING  TOMBS  AND   NANKOW  PASS 

architectural  problems  of  this  kind  !  In  the  archway  with 
flat  top,  the  bricks  must  be  keyed  together ;  but  this  can- 
not be  seen,  and  the  spectator  wonders  why  they  do  not 
fall  out.  There  is  some  wonderful  carving  on  the  face 
of  the  stones  of  this  arch,  and  inside  the  arch  innum- 
erable Buddhas  and  other  figures  are  delineated,  though 
at  the  time  of  our  visit  we  could  not  see  it  all,  as  work- 
men were  engaged  on  some  repairs  and  working  under 
a  screen.  This  is,  I  believe,  another  work  of  the  time 
of  the  Ming  Dynasty. 

All  along  this  Pass  are  spurs  of  the  Great  Wall,  as  if 
at  this  point  the  builders  were  determined  that,  even  if 
invaders  did  get  through  one  barrier,  it  would  only  be 
to  face  another. 

About  fourteen    or    fifteen   miles   from    Nankow,   we 

reached  the  top  of  the  Pass  and  came  on  the  outer  part 

of  the  Great  Wall,  with  its  great  gate  through  which  this 

wonderful  old   road   is   carried ;    this  is  on  the   summit, 

and   we    passed   through,   and   gazed   with   longing  eyes 

away  down  the  winding  road  leading  into  the  mysteries 

of  Mongolia.      I   wished   I   might   ride  on  and  on,  and 

explore  more  of  the  beauties  of  this  land.     I  turned  and 

watched  for  a  time  the  passage  through  this  hole  in  the 

wall,  which  admits  the  vast  merchandise  from  one  country 

to  another.     There  it  stands,  as  it  has  stood  for  many 

centuries,  and  through  it  there  seems  to  pass  an  endless 

stream  of  life.     In  one  direction  go  the  products  of  the 

L  2  165 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

north — wool,  sheep,  goats,  furs,  ponies ;  in  the  other  come 
the  manufactured  goods  of  all  kinds,  some  from  Man- 
chester, some  from  Southern  China,  from  America — 
indeed,  from  all  the  world. 

I  could  spend  days  watching  that  procession  ;  but  I 
have  to  rejoin  my  friends  and  ride  fifteen  miles  before 
night,  and  it  is  now  late  afternoon,  and  on  this  road  no 
one  travels  fast  with  impunity.  A  good  general  view  can 
be  had  here,  but  not  quite  so  extensive,  I  consider,  as  can 
be  seen  at  Shan-hai-kwan  described  in  another  chapter. 
Once  more  we  mount  and  retrace  our  way,  having  seen 
one  more  world's  wonder. 

I  meant  to  return  to  this  part  and  spend  some  time 
trying  to  paint  the  scenery,  but  was  prevented,  and  all 
I  have  as  a  memento  is  the  small  drawing  of  the  gateway. 

Our  return  journey  was  uneventful ;  but  as  we  ap- 
proached the  lower  end  of  the  Pass,  and  the  light  was 
fading,  the  scene  was,  if  possible,  more  beautiful  in  the 
uncertain  light  than  in  the  brilliant  sun  of  the  early  day. 
Thirty  miles  a  day  on  donkey-back  makes  one  wish  for 
comfortable  quarters  and  good  bed,  and  we  fully  appre- 
ciated them.  One  of  our  party  was  a  lady,  who  did  not 
flinch  from  those  two  days'  long  journey  on  donkey-back. 
Early  next  morning  we  took  the  train  for  Peking,  and  I 
again  took  up  the  burden  of  my  work  in  the  capital. 


i66 


NANKOW  PASS  :  GATE  OF  THE 


GREAT 
WALL 


CHAPTER   XXIV 

A  RIDE   ROUND   THE    SUMMER  PALACE 

My  Restive  Steed — Five-Pagoda  Temple — Traffic  on  the  Road — The  Jade  Fountain 
— The  Porcelain  Pagoda — Peking  from  the  Drum  Tower — Police  Supervision. 

SO  far  I  had  seen  only  Peking,  and  was  anxious  to 
see  the  country  round ;  the  one  way  to  see  the 
'  latter  satisfactorily  is  by  riding.  A  good  friend 
and  fellow-guest  at  the  hotel  suggested  I  should  go  with 
him  one  day,  and  that  he  should  mount  me.  So  one 
morning  we  arranged  to  go  round  the  Summer  Palace. 
My  friend  suggested  that,  as  one  of  his  ponies  was 
rather  given  to  stumbling,  I  had  better  ride  another 
which  he  had  lately  got.  I  mounted  all  right ;  but,  im- 
mediately this  pony  felt  my  weight,  he  seemed  to  object. 
Round  and  round  he  twisted,  up  and  down  he  jumped, 
and  when  at  last  I  got  him  to  move  off,  he  wanted  the 
whole  width  of  the  street.  His  owner  remarked  that 
he  would  be  all  right  presently.  Then  I  found  there 
was  an  uncomfortable  kink  in  the  saddle,  and  I  had  to 
abstain  from  posting.  I  felt  I  was  in  for  a  day's  excite- 
ment. On  we  went  away  round  the  Imperial  City  walls, 
leaving  the  Tartar  Wall  by  the  Se-chih  Men  Gate.     Here 

begins  the  Imperial  Road ;  but  we  turned  off  on  a  more 

167 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

shady  and  pleasant  way  by  the  Canal,  and  soon  saw 
that  strange  building,  the  Five-Pagoda  Temple.  We 
only  saw  it  from  the  outside,  by  a  grove  of  trees.  It 
is  rectangular,  and  on  the  top  are  the  five  pagodas  that 
give  it  a  name.  It  is  not  wholly  Chinese  in  form ; 
I  should  say  it  is  rather  of  mid-Asiatic  style.  The 
pagodas  have  many  tiers  of  ledges,  smaller  and  smaller 
towards  the  apex.  Near  by  is  an  immense  marble 
tortoise,  with  the  pillar  of  which  once  it  was  the  base, 
lying  on  one  side.  This  probably  marks  the  grave  of 
some  one  long  dead. 

We  cantered  along,  enjoying  the  sunshine  and  the 
exercise — my  mount  apparently  happier  going  fast  than 
slow — and  soon  came  in  sight  of  the  distant  roofs  and 
pagodas  where  the  stern  Empress  Dowager  and  the 
weakly  Emperor  were  lodged.  The  villages  through 
which  we  passed  were  busy  with  the  great  traffic  always 
caused  by  the  Court  in  residence. 

Reaching  the  large  open  space  in  front  of  the  main 
entrance  to  the  palace,  we  found  an  animated  scene. 
The  general  appearance  was  somewhat  like  that  of  a  big 
country  fair  at  home.  There  were  booths  and  stalls,  at 
which  were  sold  every  imaginable  thing  a  Chinaman 
could  want.  Jugglers,  acrobats,  pedlars  and  small  huck- 
sters, soldiers  on  guard,  cripples,  the  halt,  the  lame,  and 
the  blind — all  gathered,  I  suppose,  to  get  what  they  could 

out  of  the  greater  ones.     Peking  carts  were   hurrying  to 
i68 


A   RIDE   ROUND   THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

and  fro  from  the  gates,  and  carriages  of  European  design 
carrying  higher  officials  were  coming  and  going. 

The  brougham  is  the  carriage  now  most  affected  by 
the  Chinese  gentleman.  To  see  a  smart  new  rubber- 
tyred  brougham,  with  two  parti-coloured  rough  Mongolian 
ponies  drawing  it  and  driven  by  a  Chinese  mafoo,  with 
another  servant  standing  behind,  the  owner  in  full 
mandarin  costume  inside,  made  my  thoughts  go  back 
to  Kensington  and  fancy-dress  balls.  We  rode  through 
this  motley  crowd,  and,  turning  to  the  right,  went  round 
to  the  north  of  the  hill  the  palace  stands  on.  As  we 
went  along  we  could  see  many  of  the  buildings  still 
remaining  on  this  side ;  but  they  were  sadly  damaged 
in   1900,  and  have  not  all  been  repaired  yet. 

All  round  the  outsides  of  the  wall  were  guards.     We 

passed  through  a  picturesque  village  with  a  fine  bridge, 

which   looked  very  well   with   the   animated   foreground, 

and  up  behind  it  the  hill  with  its  temples  and  pavilions, 

and  on  the  top  The   Many  Thousand   Buddha  Temple. 

As  we  cleared  this  village  we  found,  on  our  left,  flat  land 

intersected   with   water  and   evidently   highly  cultivated ; 

on  our  right  the  ground  was  hilly.     In  front  of  us  rose 

the  hill  out  of  which  comes  the  Jade  Fountain ;  on  its 

top  is  a  high  pagoda;  before  reaching  this,  we  left  our 

ponies  and  mafoo  and  went  on  foot  up  the  hill,  on  our 

way  visiting    the   Jade    Fountain.     I    tried    to    find    out 

why    it   was    named    so,    as    there   is    no    jade    and    no 

169 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

fountain.  The  spring  of  beautifully  clear  water  comes 
out  at  this  point,  and  it  is  mainly  from  this  source  that 
the  lake  in  front  of  the  palace  is  supplied.  On  up  the 
hill  we  went,  and  at  last  on  a  ridge  we  turned  and  got 
our  reward.  Some  way  off  we  could  see  the  Summer 
Palace,  and  the  lake  spread  out  in  front  of  us,  looking 
very  beautiful.  I  longed  to  penetrate  the  boundaries  of 
some  of  those  palaces,  with  the  right  to  use  a  colour- 
box.  To  see  them  was  most  interesting,  but  not  enough 
for  me.  I  wanted  more,  but  I  was  continually  being 
told  I  would  not  get  it. 

On  the  western  slope  of  this  hill  we  came  to  that 
little  gem  of  art,  now  in  ruin,  the  "  Porcelain "  Pagoda. 
It  is  perfect  in  proportion,  rising  in  all  its  glory  of 
porcelain  tiles  of  all  colours — one  of  the  fairest  bits  of 
architecture  in  China.  I  felt  thankful  that  it  had  been 
spared  from  total  destruction,  at  that  time  of  devilment 
when  revenge  was  uppermost  in  men's  minds. 

Of  this  beautiful  thing  I  was  able  to  do  a  small 
sketch.  Near  by  are  other  pagodas,  and  below  us  the 
ruins  of  temples,  but  nothing  to  compare  with  it.  The 
colours  are  mellowed  by  age,  but  still  glitter  in  patches. 

Such  a  beautiful  thing  made  me  think  of  what 
Napoleon  was  reported  to  have  said  of  Antwerp  Cathe- 
dral— that  it  should  be  kept  under  glass.  I  trust  it 
may  be  preserved  for  the  admiration  and  instruction  of 

coming  generations. 
170 


A  RIDE   ROUND  THE   SUMMER  PALACE 

We  trudged  back  to  our  ponies.  I  found  mine  lively 
as  ever;  fifteen  miles  seemed  nothing  to  him,  and  his 
circus  performance  began  again  immediately  I  attempted 
to  mount,  much  to  the  amusement  of  the  crowd.  By 
this  time  I  had  suggested  to  my  friend  that  his  whole 
idea  in  asking  me  to  ride  with  him  was  that  he  wanted 
his  new  pony  broken  in ;  of  course  he  denied  this,  but 
even  now  I  think  he  had  designs  of  that  kind.  On  our 
return  journey  I  was  so  fully  occupied  in  holding  in 
this  brute  that  I  saw  little  else.  At  one  point,  inside 
the  city  gates  and  near  the  Coal  Hill  walls,  he  tried  to 
bolt,  and  I  had  to  use  my  whip,  which  seemed  a  great 
surprise  to  him.  He  bucked  and  reared ;  but  it  was  no 
use,  and  my  return  was  made  safely. 

One  delightful  day  I  spent  in  riding  out  to  the  Peking 
Racecourse.  Here,  as  wherever  a  few  Westerners  con- 
gregate, is  some  sport.  The  course  is  some  miles  outside 
the  walls,  and  we  came  to  it  by  devious  paths  across 
fields,  &c.,  my  mount  bolting  at  the  last  and  entering 
the  grounds  by  the  pavilion  in  a  most  racy  fashion. 

From  here  we  watched  some  trials ;  my  friend's  pony, 
on  which  I  rode,  being  put  round  in  good  style  by  a 
friendly  jockey. 

I  had  been  invited  to  lunch,  and,  even  at  this  distance 
from  the  city,  nothing  was  lacking.  Here,  as  elsewhere 
in    China,    the    foreigners,    who    are    gathered    together 

mostly  to  make  money,  take  good  care  to  have  a  few  of 

171 


CHINA:    ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

the  luxuries  of  life   at  hand,  and   the   Chinese   boy   aids 
greatly  in  procuring  them. 

View  from  the  Drum  Tower 

One  of  the  most  comprehensive  views  of  the  Tartar 
City  of  Peking  is  obtained  from  the  old  Drum  Tower, 
standing  north  of  Coal  Hill  and  the  Winter  Palace, 
and  quite  close  to  the  beautiful  Bell  Tower.  Entrance 
is  obtained  by  a  low  door,  leading  to  a  long  straight 
stone  staircase,  dark  as  night ;  to  go  up  this  staircase 
one  should  have  a  candle  or  torch.  Climbing  it,  and 
reaching  the  chamber  above,  one  is  well  rewarded. 
From  the  balcony,  on  all  sides,  can  be  seen  the  city 
stretching  out.  To  the  north,  past  the  Bell  Tower  and 
over  a  mass  of  roofs,  can  be  seen  the  northern  walls, 
and,  beyond,  the  undulating  land  stretching  away  to  the 
Yellow  Temple.  To  the  east  are  more  houses,  with  the 
higher  roofs  of  temples  appearing  among  them.  To  the 
west,  far  off,  are  seen  the  western  hills ;  and  to  the  south, 
at  one's  feet,  is  the  long  straight  street  leading  up  to  one 
of  the  gates  of  the  Imperial  City.  Behind  that  rises 
"Coal"  or  "Prospect"  Hill,  crowded  with  pavilions. 
Rising  out  of  the  trees  to  the  right  is  the  Dagoba,  within 
the  Winter  Palace,  and  nearer  one  can  see  gleaming 
water  connecting  with  the  Lotus  Lake,  and  making,  by 
canal,  a  waterway  between   this  and  the  Summer  Palace 

fifteen  miles   away.     To  the   left  are  the  yellow  roofs  of 

172 


I 


PEKING:   SEEN  FROM  THE  DRUM  TOWER 

Coal  Hill  on  the  left ;  beneath,  the  Gate  of  the  Forbidden  City  ; 
to  the  right,  the  Dagoba,  which  is  within  the  precincts  of  the 
Winter  Palace. 


A  RIDE   ROUND  THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

the  Winter  Palace  itself.  Away  beyond  all  this  you 
can  see  the  farther  walls,  with  towering  Chien-Men  and 
other  gateways,  and  even  the  far  woodlands  in  which  are 
the  Temples  of  Heaven  and  of  Agriculture.  Peking  in 
all  its  beauty  of  building  and  woodland  and  mystery  is 
at  our  feet,  and  it  would  be  hard  to  find  a  fairer  pros- 
pect. One  wants  to  look  only  at  what  is  there,  and 
the  beauty  of  it,  and  try  to  forget  all  the  past  horrors 
which  have  been  perpetrated  here. 

Looking  over  this,  the  Forbidden  City,  one  knows 
little  of  all  that  is  enacted  under  those  hiding  roofs  and 
walls.  From  this  projecting  terrace  (which  is  made  by 
the  upper  section  of  this  tower  being  smaller,  by  so 
much,  than  the  lower  half)  I  made  my  drawing,  which 
may  give  some  idea  of  the  place.  The  custodian  did 
not  at  first  seem  quite  sure  about  allowing  me  to  work 
here,  but  I  knew  what  this  meant  and  went  on  with  the 
work.  At  the  end  of  my  first  sitting  he  demanded 
extra  payment ;  I  treated  him  to  a  few  severe  words  of 
English  and  to  very  little  extra  money,  and  found  him 
much  more  civil  on  my  next  visit.  At  this  time  I  also 
carried  on  my  picture  of  the  Bell  Tower,  which  was 
done  just  outside  the  fencing  of  the  Drum  Tower. 

Here  I  was  viewed  with  suspicion  by  the  police. 
The  constable — if  one  can  call  a  Chinese  policeman  by 
that  name — discussed  the  matter  with  my  boy,  who  told 
me  he  wanted  my  card,  which   I   handed  out.     Visiting 

173 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

cards  are  a  most  useful  article  in  China,  and  seem  to 
cover  many  doubts.  Soon  this  man  brought  a  superior 
officer,  who  examined  me  and  my  work  with  great  care, 
and  asked  many  questions  of  the  boy — where  I  stayed, 
how  long  I  had  been  in  Peking,  &c.  There  was  a 
change  in  the  officials  when  I  next  appeared  at  this 
place,  for  I  had  been  told  that  an  edict  in  my  favour 
had  been  issued  by  the  Empress  Dowager,  admitting  me 
to  the  Summer  Palace.  I  found  this  had  been  published 
in  the  native  papers,  and  my  boy  got  to  know  of  it  and 
immediately  demanded  that  his  master  should  be  respect- 
fully treated.  So  when  I  reached  the  Drum  Tower,  the 
attendant,  instead  of  barring  the  way  till  he  got  his  fee, 
threw  open  the  door  and  bowed  me  in,  though  he  took 
the  fee  when  I  offered  it.  When  I  went  down  to  work 
at  the  Bell  Tower,  the  police  saluted  and  sent  the  crowd 
off  helter-skelter.  My  boy  smiled  serenely  at  me,  as 
much  as  to  say  he  knew  how  to  manage  things.  It  was 
quite  remarkable  how  henceforth,  wherever  I  worked  in 
Peking,  the  police  cared  for  me  and  were  most  helpful 
and  respectful. 


174 


PEKING:    THE    BELL   TOWER 


•   «*  •     « 


CHAPTER   XXV 
I    OBTAIN    AN    EDICT 

WHEN  I  had  been  some  weeks  in  Peking  I 
heard  from  my  friend  at  Jehol  that  the 
authorities  had  been  told  I  was  coming 
there  to  make  maps  and  plans,  and  that  I  was  not  to 
be  allowed  within  the  Imperial  Palace.  This  was  proof 
the  Chinese  Officials  did  not  understand  what  I  wished 
to  do,  and  I  determined  to  try  again.  I  went  to  the 
Legation  and  explained  my  theory  to  one  of  the  secre- 
taries, asking  him  if  he  could  introduce  me  to  a  Chinese 
Official  who  might  understand  my  work  and  be  able  to 
get  it  seen  by  members  of  the  Grand  Council,  explain- 
ing to  them  what  I  wished  for,  and  to  ask  permission 
to  paint  at  the  Summer  Palace.  This  programme  was 
carried  out  with  entire  success.  I  was  introduced  to 
H.E.  Lew  Yuk  Lin,  a  most  enlightened  gentleman, 
who  has  travelled  much  in  Western  countries  and  is  a 
collector  of  objects  of  art.  He  was  kind  enough  to 
interest  himself  at  once  in  my  work,  and  promised  that 
he  would  endeavour  to  show  specimens  of  it  to  the 
Grand  Council ;  at  the  same  time  he  did  not  give  me 
much  hope.      I  was  asked,  "  Supposing  permission  were 

175 


CHINA:    ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

granted,  would  I  present  the  Empress  Dowager  with  a 
picture?"  I  acquiesced.  I  knew  I  was  asking  for  such 
a  privilege  as  had  never  before  been  granted;  and,  for 
that  very  reason,  I  was  more  than  ever  determined  to 
obtain  it.  After  a  few  days  my  pictures  were  returned 
to  the  Legation,  with  the  information  that  the  Grand 
Council  had  seen  and  were  much  pleased  with  them — 
nothing  more. 

Just  at  this  time  a  small  exhibition  of  the  works  of 
various  amateur  artists  of  Peking  was  arranged  at  the 
Legation.  With  these  were  exhibited  some  of  my  pic- 
tures, and  I  was  surprised  to  find  the  interest  taken, 
not  only  by  the  foreigners,  but  by  the  Chinese,  many  of 
whom  visited  the  exhibition.  I  think  all  this  helped 
to  show  the  Chinese  Officials  my  object,  and  I  began  to 
have  hope  of  achieving  my  desire.  Our  Minister  now 
informed  me  that  H.E.  Yuan  Shi  Ki  had  promised 
that  he  would  approach  the  Empress  Dowager  on  my 
behalf.  The  permit  must  come  direct  from  her  —  no 
other  could  grant  such  a  privilege;  and  it  was  suggested 
to  me  that  a  request  put  forward  empty  handed  was  not 
so  easy  as  when  the  hand  was  full.  I  said,  as  I  had 
agreed  to  give  a  picture  if  permission  were  given  to  me, 
I  might  as  well  give  it  now ;  and  so,  out  of  many  one 
was  chosen  and  sent  to  the  Wai-wu-pu  for  the 
Empress  Dowager. 

Late   one   night   I    returned   to    my  room    to   find    a 
176 


I   OBTAIN  AN   EDICT 

short  note  from  Mr.  Lew  Yuk  Lin,  informing  me 
privately  that  the  Empress  Dowager  had  that  morning 
issued    an    edict    allowing    me    access    to    the    Summer 


[Extract  from  the  Pekin  Daily  News  (Pei  chung  B^l  ^  v^     tt 

zih  pao),  issued  on  the   6th   day  of  the  loth  •^-r'  J^I  g^     ^ 

moon  in  the  34th  year  of  the  reign  of  Kuang  ^^  -^Jtf  ^ 

Hsii  (30th  October  1908).]  ^ 


Permission     by    Imperial     Edict    given    to     a      J^     ^ 
British  painter  to  sketch  in  the  I  Ho  Yiian  (the     |^     |'^    0,     ^^ 
Summer  Palace).  -^[j        •  -    '^^ 


ffPfflS 


/s 


Some   days  ago  the   British   Minister  informed 


9\- 


% 


m 


the   Wai-wu-pu  (Chinese    Foreign   Office)  in    an     -^r  ^v4    hi 

official    despatch     that    a    painter     of    his    own      rii*  "^    ^^ 

nationality    named    Li    Te-erh    (Liddell)    wished      «^ 


}S   T  W  2 


to  enter  the  Summer  Palace  to  sketch  the  build-     ^      ^i^f    ^ 

i*  M  :b 


ings  and  scenery,   and    that  several   days  would     3ti        ^      Ti      jl^ 

be  required  to   enable  him  to  do  as  he  wished. 

We  now  learn  that  the  Foreign  Office  approached 

the  Throne  on  the  matter,  and  that  they  are  in 

receipt  of  an  Imperial  Edict,  in  virtue  of  which 

permission  is  granted  for  him  to  enter  the  Summer 

Palace  on  the  5  th  day  of  the  loth  moon  (29th 


ft 


October),  and  to  live  in  the  buildings  of  the  ^  \r\  ?0  ^ 
Chinese  Foreign  Office  there  where  he  will  be  iW  ^jj^  ^  ^ 
entertained.  3S     /CS    S     Qc 

Palace ;  and  in  due  course  the  same  information  was 
conveyed  to  me  through  our  Legation.  I  was  greatly 
pleased  to  attain  the  one  thing  I  wanted  above  all  others 
in   China,  and   immediately  arranged   to   make  the  most 

M  177 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

of  it.  I  was  uncertain  where  I  could  stay,  as,  through 
some  misunderstanding,  no  intimation  was  conveyed  to 
me  of  the  full  wording  of  the  edict ;  and  I  arranged  to 
ride  out  to  one  of  the  villages  near  the  palace  to  try  to 
find  quarters.  I  went  to  what  I  was  told  was  the  best 
inn  in  the  village ;  and,  though  I  was  determined  to  put 
up  with  anything  so  as  to  work  at  the  palace,  the 
quarters  offered  me  were  not  inviting ;  the  rooms  were 
not  over  clean,  the  floors  stone,  and  as  the  cold 
weather  was  approaching  this  was  a  consideration.  The 
courtyard  seemed  overflowing  with  noisy  people,  and,  as 
I  retraced  my  way  to  Peking,  I  was  not  very  sanguine. 
But  I  hurried  on  to  finish  what  work  I  had  in  hand, 
and  get  all  ready  for  the  day  I  had  appointed  to  go  to 
the  palace. 


178 


I 


CHAPTER  XXVI 
THE    SUMMER    PALACE 

My  Reception — My  Quarters  and  Attendants — My  First  Walk  Round — General 
Impressions — The  Lake — The  Great  Temple — The  Myriad  Buddha — The 
Bronze  Pavilion — The  Grand  Pailau— The  Marble  Junk — The  Bronze  Ox 
— The  Residential  Pavilions — My  Procession  to  Work — Intense  Cold. 


M 


Y  bag  was  packed,  my  working  things  all  ready, 

even  my  camp-bed  tied  up.     My  boy  had  got 

a  warm  coat,  as   I   knew  any  day  now  might 

bring  very  cold    weather.      I    went    to    bed    wondering 

what   next  day,   after   all    my   anxious    waiting,    had    in 

store  for  me.     I  was  to  paint  a  place   I    had  never  seen, 

except   at   a   distance,    and    I    did   not   even    know    if  it 

would  make  a  picture.     I    had   been   told   I    should  only 

have   a   few   days,  which   did    not   trouble   me   much ;    I 

could  trust  to  my  wit   in  this  matter.     Of  the   few  who, 

I    knew,  had   seen    the   palace,   one   said  it  was  nothing 

much  and  very  new,  another  that  it  was  very  beautiful. 

After  the  message  from  the  Legation    I  was  up  early 

and  breakfasting  before  seven,  when  my  boy  came  to  tell 

me  that  a  Chinese  gentleman  wished  to   see  me.     Going 

to   my   room    I    found    him,  and  was    thankful    that    he 

spoke    English.      By    order  of    the    Wai-wu-pu   he   had 

come  to  escort   me   to   the   palace ;   he  told  me  I  was  to 

179 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

be  lodged  there,  and  that  rooms  were  allotted  to  me  in 
a  building  used  for  foreign  visitors  when  there  was  an 
audience. 

I  was  distinctly  relieved  that  I  was  not  obliged  to 
go  to  the  inn  I  had  inspected  the  day  before,  and  that 
I  was  to  be  really  on  the  spot.  Baggage  being  put 
beside  the  driver,  and  the  boy  also  in  that  elevated 
position,  my  courteous  guide  and  I  entered  the  carriage 
and,  preceded  by  an  outrider,  drove  off. 

The  sharp  morning   air   made   me   think   of  the   cold 

that   was   to  come.     We   soon   passed   through   the   city, 

out  at  the  western  side,  and  over  the  canal  which  is  the 

old  waterway  from   the   Winter   to   the   Summer   Palace. 

The  western   hills   loomed   up    in    the   distance,   and  all 

the    country    looked    beautiful.      Autumn    colouring   was 

showing  everywhere.     Several   villages   were   passed,    the 

last  and  chief  being   that   in  which   was   the   inn    I   had 

dreaded.     On  we  went,  seeing  the  palace  roofs  gleaming 

against  the  hillside.     Passing  through   the   pailau,  which 

is  placed  where  the  road  joins  the  open  ground   in   front 

of  the  palace  gates,  we  drove  up  to  a  gate.     Here  I  was 

most    courteously    received    by    several    mandarins    and 

officials,  escorted  inside,  and    shown    my   rooms.     I   was 

told  that  a  cook  who  understood  foreign   food   had   been 

sent  out  with  other  servants  from  Peking,  and  two  boys 

as  personal  attendants ;   in  fact,  I  felt  rather  overwhelmed 

by  the  attention  lavished   on    me.     If  it   had   been  hard 
1 80 


THE   SUMMER  PALACE 

to  persuade  those  in  authority  to  allow  me  to  come, 
certainly — once  they  gave  that  permission — they  gave  it 
fully,  doing  all  that  was  possible  to  make  me  feel  not 
only  comfortable,  but  an  honoured  guest.  When  my 
things  were  got  inside,  my  attendants  courteously  sug- 
gested that  perhaps  I  would  like  to  have  a  walk  round 
the  palace  grounds.  This  was  exactly  what  I  wanted, 
to  enable  me  to  settle  what  I  would  paint.  Orders  were 
sent  forward,  and  when  we  were  ready  to  leave  my 
quarters  I  found  that  I  was  at  the  head  of  quite  a 
procession — I  in  front,  my  friendly  mandarins  following, 
then  my  boy,  and  the  other  boys  and  servants  and 
coolies,  &:c. — for  even  in  a  state  procession  a  lot  of 
coolies  are  always  joining  in. 

I  had  noted  that  a  sentry  was  placed  at  the  outer 
door  of  my  quarters  which  opened  on  to  the  courtyard 
in  front  of  the  chief  gates ;  he  presented  arms  as  I 
passed  out  to  find  a  double  line  of  fine  looking  soldiers, 
drawn  up  near  my  door  across  to  one  of  the  side  gates. 
The  centre  gate  is  only  used  by  the  Imperial  family. 
Between  these  lines  I  and  my  procession  passed  along, 
to  be  received  at  the  gateway  by  the  officer  of  the  guard 
and  various  palace  officials.  Once  I  was  inside,  there 
was  a  little  less  formality.  The  mandarins  ranged  up 
to  me,  and  kindly  told  me  the  names,  &c.,  of  all  the 
different  buildings  we  came  to.  The  first  was  a  large 
hall — used,    I   believe,  at  times  of  audience  as  a  sort   of 

M  2  l8l 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

first  reception  chamber.  Passing  by  and  going  round 
this  we  quickly  came  in  sight  of  a  large  and  beautiful 
sheet  of  very  clear  water,  with  several  islands  dotted 
about ;  it  was  surrounded  by  low  walls  with  fine-wrought 
white  marble  balustrading.  On  one  of  the  islands  can 
be  seen  the  Dragon  Temple  ;  and  from  this  island  to  the 
mainland  on  the  southern  side  is  the  long  and  beauti- 
ful marble  bridge  of  seventeen  arches.  At  intervals  other 
bridges  are  to  be  seen,  including  the  famous  camel-backed 
one  of  white  marble.  Also  there  are  ornamental  pavilions 
with  red-pillared  walls. 

As  I  first  saw  this  palace  in  soft  autumn  sunlight, 
the  western  hills  bathed  in  light  but  wonderfully  soft 
in  outline,  the  distant  pagodas  and  temples  placed  on 
various  eminences,  and  the  great  gleaming  yellow-roofed 
red-walled  buildings  on  the  rugged  hillside,  their  roofs 
of  various  pavilions  just  appearing  out  of  the  masses  of 
foliage,  it  was  fairyland ;  and  when  I  was  able  to  see 
more  closely  various  views  of  it,  its  great  beauty  became 
more  and  more  impressed  on  my  mind.  The  first 
designer  of  this  lovely  Summer  Palace — well  may  it  be 
named  so — must  have  had  a  true  appreciation  of  the 
beautiful,  first  of  all,  in  the  choice  of  such  a  delightful 
site.  That  bold  hill,  with  its  southern  face  running  down 
to  a  marsh  which  was  easily  made  into  a  lake,  was 
certainly  chosen  by  some  one  with  the  true  artistic  sense ; 

the  same  sense  is  shown  by  the  wonderful  way  in  which 
182 


PEKING:    THE    SUMMER    PALACE 

Showing  the  greater  part.  The  central  buildings  are  Temples. 
Below  is  seen  the  yellow  roof  of  the  State  Audience  Hall.  In 
the  distance  are  the  Western  Hills. 


T\S 

1' 

\  ^^B 

m^'-' 

m 

l^''>-.- 

1 

P     ^^'" 

\| 

f  4^-- 

■    ■- . i 

THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

the  buildings  were  not  only  designed  but  placed  to  the 
best  advantage,  separately  and  in  the  mass. 

The  lake  is  largely  artificial.  It  was  a  piece  of 
marshy  land,  the  waters  from  the  famous  "Jade  Foun- 
tain "  running  through  it.  On  the  northern  side  is  the 
sharp  and  abrupt  hill  on  which  the  main  buildings  are 
placed,  all  centred  in  the  Great  Temple  built  on  a  foun- 
dation of  the  most  solid  masonry  one  can  imagine, 
composed  of  immense  blocks  of  stone  very  closely  laid. 
This  foundation  rises  to  a  great  height ;  and  the  front  is 
broken  by  the  two  staircases,  which  in  three  sections  on 
either  side  lead  up  and  meet  on  the  top,  which  forms  a 
large  space,  from  the  centre  of  which  rises  the  chief 
temple  with  its  enormous  gilded  image.  The  temple 
rises  in  three  great  tiers,  each  with  its  yellow  roof 
bordered  with  green.  Leading  up  behind  this  gorgeous 
building  are  more  stairs  to  another  temple — The  Myriad 
Buddha  which  is  on  the  highest  point  of  the  hill.  It  is 
entirely  faced  with  porcelain  tiles  of  yellow  interspersed 
with  green,  with  a  white  marble  triple  gateway  in  front. 
On  each  side  of  this  central  group  and  cunningly  placed 
on  the  steep  hillside  are  various  pavilions  and  memorials 
— some  with  yellow,  some  with  green  tiled  roofs.  There 
are  some  stone  tablets  and  bronze  tablets  to  famous 
persons  of  the  past. 

On  the  western  side   is   that  wonderful   work  of  art 

and  marvel  of  bronze,  the  Bronze  Pavilion,  wholly  made 

183 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

of  fine  bronze  :  even  the  tiles  are  bronze  and  the  floors, 
and  the  interior  furniture — of  which  little  now,  I  am  sorry 
to  say,  is  left.  It  is  a  reproval  to  Western  civilisation 
that  such  beautiful  things  should  be  pillaged.  Of  the 
wonderfully  wrought  open-work  windows  some  are  gone — 
taken  away,  I  believe,  in  1900;  but  I  was  glad  to  hear 
that  the  British  prevented  the  entire  pillage  of  this  place. 
It  would  be  a  gracious  act  if  the  owners  of  those 
window-frames,  which  are,  I  believe,  still  in  China,  were 
to  restore  them  to  this  unique  building. 

After  a  general  inspection  of  this  part  we  went  on 
board  some  barges,  and  were  rowed  across  the  lake  to 
inspect  the  Dragon  Temple  and  the  various  bridges  and 
buildings.  From  the  water  there  is  a  wonderful  view 
of  the  whole  central  group  of  temples,  and  this  position, 
by  the  way,  is  entirely  for  state  ceremonials  and  worship, 
and  is  enclosed  by  a  red  wall  which  runs  along  the  top 
and  down  the  sides  of  the  hill. 

In  front  of  all  the  group  and  on  the  water's  edge  is 

the    Grand    Pailau,    through    which,    by    the    water,    is 

obtained    the    state    entrance   to    this    portion,    the    state 

audience-hall   and  temples.      This   pailau   is   a   gorgeous 

thing  in  itself,  with  its  huge  red  pillars  dividing  the  usual 

three  gateways ;  these  pillars  set  on  white  marble  plinths, 

and  carrying  over  them  gaily  coloured  and  gilded  open-work 

and   carvings   of  dragons   and   other   mythical   creatures. 

Over  all,  and  divided  in  three,  are  the  blazing  yellow  roofs. 
184 


PEKING:   THE   GRAND    PAILAU,   SUMMER 

PALACE 

The  chief  entrance  to  the  Audience  Hall  and  Temples  from 
the  Lake.  Through  the  central  arch  in  the  distance  is  seen  the 
Dragon  Temple. 


THE   SUMMER  PALACE 

This  building  is  backed  by  the  first  entrance-hall, 
which  in  turn  leads  through  to  others  and  so  reaches 
the  state  audience-chamber.  Each  hall  rises  above  the 
other,  and  over  all  are  the  solid  stone  wall  and  towering 
temples.  The  great  group  of  architecture,  all  reflected 
in  the  clear  waters  of  the  lake,  made  a  picture  hard  to 
equal.  I  had  not  time,  alas !  to  attempt  to  reproduce  it 
on  paper  or  canvas. 

Looking  from  the  steps  of  the  entrance-hall  one  sees 
the  pailau  clear  and  massive  against  the  lake  and  sky, 
and,  through  it,  the  Dragon  Temple  with  a  glimpse  of 
the  Seventeen-Arch  Bridge. 

Going  on  by  boat  we  reached  the  curious  "  Marble 
Junk."  Built  about  two  hundred  years  ago,  it  has  at 
various  times  been  added  to ;  but  the  additions  are  not 
beautiful,  nor  do  they  improve  the  architecture.  The 
original  boat,  in  form  like  an  old  state  junk,  is  good, 
being  built  of  blocks  of  white  marble  and  finely  wrought, 
the  stern  rising  high,  and  the  whole  very  realistic.  Built 
on  this  fine  old  work  and  rising  to  some  height  is  a 
tawdry  erection  of  wood,  painted  to  imitate  marble. 
The  upper  floor  consists  of  tea-rooms  for  the  Imperial 
family  and  their  guests.  Again,  to  meet  modern  ideas, 
excrescences  of  marble  have  been  added,  to  imitate 
roughly  paddle-wheels ;  this  is  badly  done,  obviously 
out  of  keeping  and  proportion  with  the  original  struc- 
ture; but  the  added  paddle-wheels  seem  to  suggest  that 

185 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

the  Chinese  mind  of  some  years  ago  really  wished  to 
adopt  Western  ideas,  and  used  this  means  of  showing  its 
desire. 

Adjoining  the  Marble  Junk  is  a  fine  marble  bridge, 
with  sculptured  lions  on  the  piers  and  a  well-formed 
double  roof  over  the  centre  arch.  Near  by  are  the  boat- 
houses,  in  which  are  kept  the  gorgeous  state-barges  and 
the  modern  motor-boats  now  used  on  the  lake. 

Away  across,  on  the  southern  side  of  the  lake,  stands 
the  grand  casting  in  bronze  of  an  ox.  I  call  it  a  cast- 
ing, but  much  work  must  have  been  given  to  this 
artistic  masterpiece  after  it  left  the  founders  hands.  It 
stands  massive  and  alone.  What  masters  of  bronze 
work  the  Chinese  are !  Look  at  the  great  lions  near  the 
Grand  Pailau,  finer  even  than  those  at  the  Lama  Temple ; 
think  of  the  storks  and  deer  at  the  Winter  Palace ! 

I  believe  Italian  priests  were  called  in  to  help  design 

this   Summer   Palace ;    and,    looking   at   the  whole   from 

across    the    lake,    I    could    see    evidence    of    their    work. 

That   central   group,   on   its   enormous   stone   foundation, 

shows    it    distinctly    in    the    severity    of   the    stonework ; 

even    the    temple   on    the   top,   in    spite   of  the    Chinese 

roofs,  has  a  touch  of  Italian,  and  I  could  almost  imagine 

I  was  on  an   Italian  lake,  looking  at  some  fairy  palace. 

Italian    or    Chinese — I    care    not    which — it   is    extremely 

beautiful.     Could   one    wish   for   a    more    ideal    place    in 

which  to  dream  away  the  sweet  summer? 
i86 


PEKING:    PAVILION    OF   THE    LATE 
EMPRESS,    SUMMER   PALACE 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

The  pavilions  of  the  Empress  Dowager,  and  of  the 
Emperor  and  Empress,  are  close  to  the  lake,  nearer  to  the 
entrance  of  the  palace  grounds  than  the  state  buildings, 
which  they  differ  from  in  being  roofed  with  gray  tiles ; 
they  are  not  large,  but  very  dainty,  and  the  word  pavilion 
describes  them  well,  as  nearly  all  are  of  one  storey 
and  unpretentious.  They  border  on  the  lake,  with  only 
a  narrow  paved  footway  in  front  balustrated  with  white 
marble,  and  are  approached  by  steps  at  which  pas- 
sengers can  land  from  boats. 

In  front  of  the  Empress  Dowager's  are  two  tall 
slender  pillars  of  wood,  arched  over  at  the  top,  from 
which  hangs  a  large  electric  arc-lamp ;  these  tall  pillars 
are  decorated  with  white  dragons  on  a  green  ground. 
Under  the  eaves  of  the  pavilion  are  rows  of  electric 
lights.  The  windows  are  glazed  inside  elaborate  wood- 
work, much  of  which  is  painted  a  brilliant  red.  To  see 
all  this  lighted  up  at  night  and  reflected  in  the  clear 
waters  of  the  lake  must  be  very  beautiful.  I  could 
imagine  it  to  be  somewhat  like  parts  of  Venice  on  a 
fete  night,  with  the  addition  of  the  more  picturesque 
Chinese  figures. 

The  gardens  of  these  pavilions  are  neither  large  nor 
particularly  beautiful,  but  the  whole  place  is  a  natural 
garden,  and  so  lovely  that  one  does  not  miss  the  arti- 
ficial garden  of  Western  style. 

From    these    pavilions    to    the    state    buildings    and 

187 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

temples  there  is  a  covered  way  raised  slightly  from  the 
ground,  paved  and  roofed  with  tiles,  the  roof  being 
supported  on  timber  posts  and  beams,  all  of  which  are 
most  elaborately  decorated  and  painted  with  many  quaint 
designs. 

The  Empress  Dowager  has  repaired  all  this  southern 
part  of  the  palace  since  1900,  and  in  this  work  one 
can  see  the  introduction  of  many  Western  ideas.  This 
covered  way  extends  all  along  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and 
is  a  means  of  access  to  every  part  of  the  palace  build- 
ings ;  a  delightful  walk  it  is,  although  hidden  from  sight 
among  the  trees ;  and  going  along  it,  one  can  get 
delightful  peeps  out  to  the  lake. 

I  have  said  that  the  quarters  set  apart  for  my  use 
were  in  a  group  of  buildings  abutting  on  the  courtyard 
in  front  of  the  chief  gates.  These  buildings  are  semi- 
foreign  in  design  and  fairly  comfortable,  though  not 
originally  designed  for  sleeping-quarters,  but  rather  for 
the  foreigners  who  come  to  audience  when  the  Court  is 
in  residence.  My  rooms  were,  however,  made  very  com- 
fortable for  me,  foreign  bed  and  furniture  being  pro- 
vided. Almost  on  my  arrival  I  was  asked  how  many 
days  I  would  require  to  stay  to  do  my  work.  To  this 
I  gave  an  evasive  reply.  I  had  been  told  I  could  only 
stay  a  few  days ;  and,  to  do  even  a  little  of  what  I  saw, 
I  knew  I  must  stretch  out  my  time  as  much  as  possible. 

My    reception    on    arrival    at    the    palace    was    most 
188 


THE   SUMMER  PALACE 

formal ;  and  after  that,  I  thought  I  should  be  rid  of 
ceremony  and  go  about  my  work  in  my  usual  way ;  but 
I  soon  found  that  my  comings  and  goings  between  my 
room  and  my  work  were  most  carefully  arranged.  My 
own  boy  had  become  quite  an  important  personage  since 
his  master  became  an  Imperial  guest ;  he  had  two  other 
boys  under  him,  and  as  many  coolies  as  he  liked  to 
have ;  and  though  I  had  repeatedly  told  him  that  he 
and  no  one  else  was  to  carry  my  drawing,  I  found  that 
he  was  giving  it  to  one  of  his  underlings  to  carry. 

Whilst  staying  here  I  found  that  the  Wai-wu-pu  had 
arranged  that  two  mandarins,  officials  from  the  Foreign 
Office,  should  always  be  in  attendance.  I  was  told  that 
this  was  to  ensure  me  all  possible  attention  and  com- 
fort ;  and  that  all  the  servants  should  do  as  I  wished. 
To  these  mandarins  I  am  much  indebted.  To  state  a 
wish  to  them  was  to  have  it  carried  out.  I  was  quite 
free  to  go  where  I  liked  in  this  fairyland  palace,  and 
I  had — as  it  were — but  to  wave  a  wand  to  find  at  my 
disposal  all  I  wished  for.  Had  time  allowed,  I  should 
have  wished  to  visit  and  examine  every  corner;  but  my 
purpose  was  to  get,  whilst  I  had  such  a  chance,  a  few 
pictures  of  this  place,  to  paint  which  no  European  before 
had  ever  had  permission — and  to  this  purpose  I  gave 
all  my  time  and  thoughts. 

As  I  have  said,  my  comings  and  goings  were  matters 

of  ceremony ;   and   it   may   interest   readers   if   I    try   to 

189 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

describe  it.     I  would  say  to  my  boy :   "  Ready  for  work, 

boy,"   and   he   then   called   his   underlings   and   imparted 

this  news  to  them.     They  in  turn  notified  the  mandarins 

who  were  in  their  quarters  adjoining  mine.      I  watched 

the    servants    get    my    working    things    together.      Once 

they    had    done    this,    they    always    knew   just    what    I 

wanted,  and  forgot  nothing.     I  then  walked  out  into  the 

courtyard  to  head  the   procession.     I  went  in  front,  the 

mandarins  following  me,  then  my  boy  with  my  drawing 

in    its    case,    then    more    servants    carrying    my   various 

implements   (they  are  cunning   enough  to   divide  up  the 

loads,  so  that  each  has  but  little) ;   and,  following  them, 

a    few    coolies    carrying    teapots    and    so    forth.     So    we 

started — the  sentry  at  the  gate  having  notified  the  guard 

and  presented  arms  as  I  pass :  I  find  a  long  double  line 

of  soldiers  going  right  across  the  great  courtyard  to  the 

palace   gates ;    through   this    we    pass,   being   saluted   by 

sections   as    I  go,  and  at  the  farther  end  by  the   officer 

in   command.     At  this  point  we  are   received   by   palace 

officials ;   and    on   our  passing    inside   the   gates    several 

soldiers  and  palace  officials  join  the  company.     Boatmen 

attend,  in  case  I  wish  to  go  on  the  water.     Proceeding 

to  the  subject  I  had  in  hand,  I  get  quickly  to  work ;  and 

my  crowd   of  attendants   dispose   of  themselves   as   they 

like.     I  thought  that  it  would  only  be  at  first  that  such 

ceremony    would    be    observed  ;    but    it    continued    all 

through  my  stay,  and  I   had  much  quiet  amusement  as 
190 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

each  day  this  performance  was  enacted  for  an  unassum- 
ing artist. 

The  weather  had  now  become  extremely  cold,  and  I 
found  it  necessary  to  put  on  all  the  warmest  clothing  I 
had,  and  over  all  a  heavy  fur  coat ;  even  so,  I  felt  the 
bitter  wind  when  I  sat  at  work :  how  my  attendants 
stood  it  I  don't  know  ;  but  they  could  move  about  and 
seek  shelter  from  the  biting  wind  in  corners  of  build- 
ings, whilst  I  had  to  stick  to  my  easel.  But  I  was 
never  left  entirely  alone  whilst  on  land,  and  only  once, 
when  painting  the  Marble  Junk  from  a  boat,  did  I 
succeed  in  getting  rid  of  all  my  following,  and  having 
about  two  hours  alone  on  my  boat.  That  morning,  on 
boarding  the  boats,  I  had  suggested  that  all  need  not 
come,  as  it  was  so  very  cold ;  so  the  mandarins  and 
some  others  walked  by  the  lake  side  to  the  point  nearest 
where  I  should  anchor.  I  counted  my  reduced  fol- 
lowing, and  found  that  on  two  boats  with  the  rowers 
there  were  twenty-one  persons  with  me,  the  two  boats 
being  fastened  to  a  pole  stuck  in  the  bottom  at  my 
point  of  sight.  I  then  told  them  all  to  clear  off  my 
boat  so  as  not  to  shake  it,  and  they  rowed  off  and 
joined  the  others  on  shore;  but  I  was  within  sight  all 
the  time. 

I  was  rather  amused  once  in  passing  along  through 

the  guard,   when   without   thinking    I    suddenly   stopped 

to   light   my   pipe,   and   found   that    I    had    stopped    the 

191 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

whole  procession,  and  kept  the  soldiers  with  arms  pre- 
sented while  I  did  this :  my  mandarins  had  nearly  fallen 
over  me. 

There  were  telephones  from  the  palace  to  the  Wai- 
wu-pu  in  Peking,  and  I  soon  found  that  all  my  doings 
were  being  reported  at  headquarters,  just  exactly  what 
I  had  done  that  day,  and  (if  possible)  what  I  was  going 
to  do. 

After  a  few  days  I  heard  that  I  was  not  to  be  hurried 
away ;  but  the  weather  was  getting  so  severe  that  I  found 
it  very  hard  to  keep  at  work.  As  I  passed  along  the 
outer  courtyard  to  my  quarters,  I  could  occasionally  see 
at  a  distance  the  conveyances  which  had  brought  out 
from  Peking  visitors,  who,  driving  thus  far,  would  take 
chairs  or  ponies,  or  walk  round  on  the  neighbouring 
hills,  so  as  to  get  a  view  of  the  Empress  Dowager's 
famed  summer  home. 

The  mandarins  attending  on  me  took  turns  in  duty, 
driving  out  from  Peking  in  the  rnorning ;  two  would 
be  with  me  one  day  and  stay  over  night,  to  return  next 
day  to  the  capital  and  be  relieved  by  two  others. 

The  day  or  two  which  I  was  supposed  to  have  was 
spun  out  to  nearly  a  fortnight  at  this  delightful  place, 
a  time  of  continuous  work  for  me  and  of  great  interest. 
The  mandarins  and  others  were  kind  and  attentive  in 
all  ways,  and  I  shall  always  have  most  kindly  recollec- 
tions of  them. 
192 


THE   SUMMER   PALACE 

Each  day  the  cold  got  more  intense  and  I  had  to 
make  up  my  mind  that  I  could  no  longer  carry  on  my 
work  outside.  So  I  fixed  on  a  day  for  departure,  and 
now  I  had  an  example  of  the  official  mind.  The  officials 
had  got  to  know  me,  and  to  understand  what  I  was 
doing;  and  instead  of  being  hurried  away  I  was  asked 
if  I  would  remain  longer,  or — if  I  wished  to  go — would 
I  return  ?  I  should  have  been  glad  to  return  had  it 
been  earlier  in  the  season,  but  November  forbade  it. 
I  shall  not  forget  my  last  day  at  the  Summer  Palace. 
The  sun  shone  brilliantly  from  a  clear  blue  sky,  but 
the  wind  was  intensely  cold ;  I  worked  at  my  subject 
of  the  Grand  Pailau ;  and  though  I  stuck  to  it  all  day, 
at  the  last  I  was  so  numbed  with  the  cold  that  I  could 
not  even  put  away  my  brushes,  and  to  walk  at  all  was 
painful. 

All  was  ready  for  my  departure.  My  carriage  had 
come  from  Peking ;  and,  only  going  to  my  rooms  for 
some  tea,  I  bid  adieu  to  all,  gazed  my  last  on  the  lovely 
place,  and  set  out  on  my  long  cold  drive  to  Peking, 
which  I  reached  before  the  closing  of  the  gates. 


N  193 


CHAPTER    XXVII 

RETURN  TO  PEKING 

Death  of  the  Emperor  and  Empress  Dowager — 
Anxious  Times — Good-bye. 

THE  hotel  seemed  very  warm  and  comfortable  and 
home-like,  and  it  was  pleasant  to  talk  with  other 
English  people,  and  hear  the  news  of  the  world 
from  which  I  had  been  practically  cut  off.  The  gossip 
going  round  recalled  to  me  a  conversation  with  one  of 
my  attendants  a  few  days  before  at  the  palace.  He  had 
been  telling  me  of  an  audience  at  Court  at  which  he 
had  been  present,  and  I  asked  him  how  the  Empress 
Dowager  and  the  Emperor  looked  :  the  Empress,  he 
said,  looked  well  and  strong  and  walked  erect,  but  the 
Emperor  looked  very  ill. 

During  my  last  week  or  so  at  Peking  there  were 
anxious  times  for  many.  Rumours  came  from  the 
Winter  Palace  of  the  serious  illness  of  the  Emperor, 
then  more  rumours  of  the  Empress  Dowager,  and  it 
was  felt  that  a  crisis  in  the  affairs  of  China  was  near. 
The  strong  hand  so  long  felt  was  now  trembling.  The 
Emperor  was  known  to  be  dying,  and  all  were  wonder- 
ing what  might  happen  next. 
194 


RETURN   TO   PEKING 

Before  leaving  Peking  I  had  invited  all  my  Chinese 
friends  to  dine  with  me — those  who  had  helped  to 
forward  my  petition  for  entry  to  the  palace,  and  those 
who  had  smoothed  my  way  by  their  kind  attention — and, 
to  meet  them,  a  few  of  my  personal  friends.  For  this 
farewell  dinner  I  made  for  each  guest  special  menu 
cards,  on  which  I  painted  little  bits  of  the  Summer 
Palace.  Just  before  dinner  a  note  from  one  of  my 
Chinese  guests  brought  apologies  for  absence.  The 
others  came  and  we  sat  down.  We  were  nearly  at  the 
end  of  our  meal,  when  messengers  arrived  to  call  all 
the  Chinese  away  from  my  table.  They  apologised 
gravely  and  politely  and  left ;  and  but  a  few  seconds 
after  another  guest,  a  journalist  of  note,  quietly  asked 
me  to  excuse  him.  We  remaining  knew  too  well  what 
must  have  happened,  but  could  get  no  definite  news 
till  late  that  night.  The  Emperor  was  dead,  and  the 
Empress  Dowager  dying.  Next  day  brought  news  that 
she,  too,  was  dead  ;  both  the  long  and  the  short  lives 
were  over,  and  a  new  regime  must  now  guide  the  fate 
of  the  great  Empire.  Early  next  morning  I  was 
awakened  by  the  march  past  of  our  bonnie  Highland 
men  to  reinforce  the  Legation  guard  ;  and  so  our  watch- 
ful guardians  took  precautions  which  might  be  very 
necessary.  There  was  considerable  anxiety  on  all  sides, 
for  no  one  knew  quite  what  might  happen. 

I   had  still  a  little  work  to  do  in   Peking ;  and  cold 

195 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

though  it  was,  I  moved  about  in  the  city,  and  found 
the  streets  patrolled  by  military  and  extra  police.  The 
people  stood  about  in  groups,  particularly  near  the  many 
small  banks,  from  which  depositors  or  holders  of  notes 
were  hurriedly  withdrawing  their  money.  A  feeling  of 
uneasiness  was  general.  Walking  with  some  friends 
one  day  up  Legation  Street,  I  was  much  amused  to 
find  that  the  Chinese  gatekeeper  near  Hata-Men  Street 
had  most  carefully  oiled  the  hinges  of  the  Legation 
quarter  gates.  He  meant  to  make  it  easier  and  quieter 
to  shut  them  hurriedly  if  necessary. 

But  as  far  as  we  were  concerned,  all  things  seemed 
quiet.  Tientsin  papers  came  in,  and  it  amused  us  to 
read  of  the  events  taking  place  in  our  midst  of  which 
we  knew  nothing.  The  many  Mongolians,  who  for  some 
time  past  had  been  coming  to  the  capital  to  pay  their 
duty  to  the  Dalai  Lama,  were  magnified  by  the  press 
into  an  army  of  Mongolians  on  the  north  of  the  city, 
ready  to  force  an  entry.  More  than  one  Legation  was 
said  to  have  put  out  wire  entanglements  and  made  other 
preparations  for  siege,  and  women  and  children  were  pre- 
paring to  leave.  Rumours  reached  us  that  various  high 
officials  had  suddenly  met  their  end,  and  that  others 
were  imprisoned  ;  but  nothing  happened.  The  new  Em- 
peror was  enthroned,  the  Prince  Regent  was  appointed, 
and  things  went  on  as  before. 

On  one  of  my  excursions  across  the  city  I   came  on 
196 


RETURN   TO   PEKING 

the  procession  of  the  Dalai  Lama,  and  in  my  ricksha 
rode  beside  him  for  a  mile  or  so.  He  was  seated  in 
his  yellow  chair,  alone — outside  of  the  Chinese  Imperial 
family — holding  the  right  to  ride  thus.  This  remarkable 
man  has  an  intelligent  face  of  the  true  Asiatic  type — high 
cheek  bones,  prominent  teeth,  and  straggling  thin  black 
moustache. 

At  the  time  of  his  arrival  in  Peking  there  was  great 
discussion  as  to  how  he  was  to  enter  the  city.  I  heard 
it  was  even  suggested  that  a  temporary  way  of  wood 
should  be  built,  so  that  he  might  come  in  over  the 
Wall,  as  he  could  not  enter  by  the  one  chief  gate 
reserved  for  the  Ruler.  It  ended,  however,  in  him 
coming  by  train,  and  being  carried  in  by  one  of  the 
ordinary  gates.  His  followers  came  in  by  all  ways  :  a 
wild-looking  lot  they  were,  broad  faced  and  hard  looking. 

They  certainly  added  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the 
rapidly  Westernising  capital  —  this  horde  of  mounted 
Lama  priests,  their  yellow  gowns  streaming  in  the  wind 
as  they  rode.  There  was  a  troop  of  Chinese  soldiers  in 
the  procession,  but  the  Tibetans  themselves  formed  the 
principal  part.  The  Dalai  Lama  was  returning  to  the 
Yellow  Temple  from  the  Winter  Palace,  where  he  had 
been  present  at  the  enthronement  of  the  child  Emperor. 

I  was  now  finishing  a  picture  of  the  Summer  Palace 

which  I  had  been  asked  to  do  for  the  Empress  Dowager ; 

and  as  she  was  dead,   I  was   in  doubt  what   to  do.      I 

N  2  197 


CHINA:   ITS   MARVEL  AND   MYSTERY 

asked  the  Legation  to  make  inquiries  of  the  Wai-wu-pu, 
and  I  was  told  to  finish  the  picture.  I  left  the  picture 
in  care  of  our  Legation  until  the  period  of  mourning 
had  passed,  that  it  might  be  brought  to  the  notice  of 
the  Prince  Regent,  who  had  been  appointed  to  guide 
the  destinies  of  China  during  the  minority  of  the  baby 
Emperor.  I  have  heard  since  then  that  the  picture  has 
reached  the  Court.  When  it  was  completed  there  was 
nothing  to  detain  me  longer  in  the  capital ;  the  weather 
had  become  too  severe  for  outside  work,  and  I  felt 
my  time  had  come  to  return  southwards.  This  meant 
the  beginning  of  my  journey  home.  I  was  lucky  enough 
in  my  voyage  from  Tientsin  to  be  stopped  on  the  bar 
at  Taku,  so  that  I  missed  the  full  violence  of  a  typhoon. 
When  we  got  out  to  sea,  we  felt  only  its  after-effects. 
In  calling  at  Cheefoo  we  were  informed  of  the  loss  with 
many  lives  of  a  Japanese  steamer,  which  had  left  just 
before  we  did.  We  landed  in  Shanghai  without  mishap, 
and  my  few  days'  stay  there  were  taken  up  in  arrang- 
ing for  an  exhibition  of  my  pictures  of  China,  which  I 
had  been  asked  to  give  for  the  benefit  of  a  very  deserv- 
ing charity,  the  Home  for  Rescued  Slave  Girls. 

To  an  artist  one  year  is  a  short  time ;  and  in  a 
country  so  vast,  and  with  such  glorious  treasures  of  art 
as  China,  it  is  all  too  short.  I  hope  I  may  live  to 
revisit  the  country  and  explore  other  parts  of  it. 

198 


GLOSSARY 


Amah,  Chinese  nurse. 

Bhoberry^  noise  and  fuss. 

Bund,  thoroughfare  fronting  the  water.     Built  up  from  the  water. 

Cangue,  wooden  frame  for  neck  of  a  criminal. 

Chien  Men  or  Tsien  Men,  literally  "  front  gate." 

"  Chin-chin  their  Joss,"  making  supplication  to  their  gods. 

Chow-time,  Chinese  feeding-time. 

Compradore,  Chinese  intermediary  between  foreign  merchants  and  the  native. 

Dagoba,  tower  of  the  Mohammedan  Mosque. 

Godowns,  warehouses. 

Ho,  river  in  the  north.     {Kiang  in  the  south.) 

Hong,  business  house. 

Joss-house,  place  of  worship,  temple. 

Joss-sticks,  sticks  of  rolled  paper,  with  incense,  which  are  burned  in  urns 

placed  before  the  gods. 
Junk,  large  native  boat. 
Kowliang,  a  tall  cereal  very  much  grown  in  Northern  China,  attains  to  eight 

or  nine  feet. 
Kumshaw,  gift,  tip  (or  cumsha). 
Lekin,  native  taxing  station. 
Men,  gate. 
Mafoo,  coachman. 
No.  I  Boy,  butler,  chief  servant. 
Pailau,  memorial  arch. 
Pidgin,  business,  and  has  been  evolved  from  that  word  by  the  Chinese  who 

cannot  pronounce  the  word  "  business." 
Sampan,  small  native  boat. 
Shan,  mountain. 

Shameen,  the  island  at  Canton  on  which  are  the  foreign  settlements. 
Squeeze,  commission  or  perquisite  retained  by  Chinese  in  any  transaction. 
Tiffin,  luncheon. 
Yamen,  office  of  an  official. 
Yuloo^  large  oar. 

199 


INDEX     OF     NAMES 


BiNG  00,  60,  62 

Temple  of  Confucius,  60 


Canton,  17,  28 

Shameen,  21 

City  of  the  Dead,  24 

Pearl  River,  18 

Flowery  Pagoda,  23 

Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Genii,  24 

Lekin  Station,  26 

Defence  Creek,  26 

Macao  Fort,  27 
Chinwangtao,  93,  94,  102,  108 
Cheefoo,  83,  102,  198 

Go  A,  13 

Grand  Canal,  80,  8i 

Hangchow,  59,  65 

City,  68 

Medical  Mission,  69 

West  Gate,  75 

North  Gate,  76 

West  Lake,  64,  70 

Red  Pagoda,  66 

Imperial  Library,  66 

British  Settlement,  64 

Japanese  Settlement,  64 

Custom-House  Wharf,  63,  78,  79 

Lin  Yin  Temples,  66,  75 

Whistling  Stone,  67 

Cave  Temples,  66 
Hoang  Ho,  93 


Hong  Kong,  1-6 
Peak,  I 
Victoria,  i 
Kowloon,  7 
East  Point,  5 
Harbour  of  Refuge,  5 
West  River,  5 
Sha-kai-wan,  6 


Japan, 83-91 

Nagasaki,  84,  86 

Mogi,  84 

Inland  Sea,  85,  86 

Kobe,  86 

Fujiyama,  86 

Nikko,  87,  88,  89 

Tokio,  87,  90 

Yokohama,  86,  87 

Shimuzi,  86 

Shuzenzi,  88 

Cryptomaria  Road,  88 

Katsuura,  89 

Sheba  Temple,  90 

Straits  of  Shimonosaki,  90 

Moji,  91 
Jehol,  114,  137 


Kashing,  63,  64 
Kwangfoong,  56 


Macao,  12,  16 
Ming  Tombs,  156 


201 


INDEX   OF   NAMES 


Ming  Dynasty,  165 
Mongolia,  156,  163,  165 
Mutu,  54 


Nankow  Pass,  162-166 

Great  Wall,  156,  163,  164,  165 
Newchwang,  94,  107 


Pei-tai-ho,  83 

Rocky  Point,  96 

West  End,  96 

"The  Cruet,"  96,  104 

Rock  Temple,  102 

Gulf  of  Pechili,  103 

Chang-lee  Hills,  103,  104,  no 
Peking,  1 19-198 

Tartar  City,  127,  145 

Forbidden  City,  173 

Yellow  Temple,  153,  154 

Wai-wu-pu,  122,  132,  176,  179,  189, 
198 

Tsien  or  Chien-Men,  123-126 

Yungting-Men,  124 

Hata-Men,  126 

Se-chih  Men,  167 

Morrison  Street,  120 

Temple  of  Agriculture,  124,  173 

Temple  of  Heaven,  119,  124,   125, 
138,  139,  140,  143,  173 

Lama  Temple,  145,  151 

Confucian,  152 

Hall  of  the  Classics,  152 

Coal  Hill,  125,  132,  135,  172 

Legation  Quarter,  126 

Dagoba,  135 

Lotus  Lake,  153 

British  Legation,  121,  122,  123 

Tartar  Wall,  119,  123,  126,  167 

Water  Gate,  120,  121,  126 
202 


Peking — continued 

Hata-Men  Street,  127,  129 
Bell  Tower,  172,  173,  174 
Drum  Tower,  173,  174 
Racecourse,  171 
Imperial  City,  172 
Five-Pagoda  Temple,  168 
Von  Kettler  Memorial,  128 

Port  Arthur,  93 


Shan-hai-kwan,  105-112 

Great  Wall,  103,  105,  io6,  108 

Drum  Tower,  no 
Shanghai,  29-50 

Native  City,  37-45 

Whangpoo,  39 

Woosung,  29 

Hongkew,  32 

Nankin  Road,  30 

Foochow  Road,  31 

Soochow  Creek,  32 

Defence  Creek,  37 

Race-course,  32 

Bubbling  Well   Road,   32,   46,  48, 

83 

New  Maloo,  38,  41 

Bird  Market,  38 

Old  Tea  House,  38 

Legend,  Willow  Pattern,  39 

Piece-Goods  Temple,  40 

French  Settlement,  46 

Sicawai  Creek,  46 

Arsenal,  46 

Loongwha,  46,  48 
Soochow,  51,  52,  57,  65 
Summer  Palace,  179 

A  ride  round,  167 

Many  Thousand    Buddha  Temple, 
169 

Jade  Fountain,  169,  183 

Porcelain  Pagoda,  170 


INDEX   OF   NAMES 


Summer  Palace — continued 

Dragon  Temple,  182,  184,  185 
Bronze  Pavilion,  183 
Grand  Pailau,  184,  186,  193 
Marble  Junk,  185 


Tahu,  51,  S3,  56 

Taku,  198 

Tientsin,  94,  97,  103,  113,  118,  198 


Tientsin — continued 
Gordon  Hall,  115 
Pai-ho,  113,  115 

Wei-hai-wei,  83,  93 

Widow's  Monument,  62 

Winter  Palace,  122,  124,  131-136,  173 

Wong-Dong,  57 

Woo  Men  Bridge,  57 

Yellow  Sea,  93 


THE    END 


Printed  by  Ballantynb,  Hanson  S-  Co. 
Edinburgh  &'  London. 


